(中英雙語)巴西絲綢產業概況

2021-01-20 世界絲綢網

Ms. Renata Amano

President of Brazilian Silk Association

巴西絲綢協會會長

Abraseda - Brazilian Silk Association, aims to fully and sustainably promote a whole chain of Silk from the production of Silkworm eggs, breeding of Silkworms, production of cocoons, spinning, weaving, and apparel final goods, marketing and fashion, even academic research and innovation development projects for Silk application in different market segments other than textiles.

巴西絲綢協會(Abrasseda)旨在促進絲綢產業鏈上種桑養蠶、繅絲織造、服裝成品、市場和時尚等環節全面而可持續的發展,甚至包括學術研究、創新發展等方面紡織品以外不同細分市場的絲綢應用。

Given Brazil’s agricultural strengths and the relevant numbers of the national and international fashion market, Abraseda promotes Sericulture, associating the local Silk industry expertise and technology with the sustainable, ethical and socially responsible development of such economic sector, and, as a result, Brazilian economy. We also believe that, by joining efforts, silk should establish itself as an agent of economic and social transformation.

鑑於巴西的農業實力以及大量的國內外服裝市場,巴西絲綢協會旨在促進蠶桑業發展,將當地絲綢業的專業知識和技術與該經濟部門的可持續、道德和社會責任感的發展聯繫起來,從而促進巴西經濟的發展。我們相信,通過共同努力,絲綢將成為經濟和社會轉型的推動者。

Initially formed by the local manufacturers of raw silk in 1971, the former Abrasseda aimed to strengthen the silk spinning industry in Brazil - an activity that began in the country in the early 1920s.

1971年,當地的生絲製造商組建了巴西絲綢協會,當時旨在加強巴西的絲綢紡紗業,這項生產開始於20世紀20年代初。

However, given the fast industrialization process in the southeastern region of Brazil and the replacement of men power by different types of agricultural machinery and implements, silk domestic market was negatively impacted by the accelerated movement of work force from the countryside to urban cities between years 1970 and 2000, and suffered significant cocoon production decrease, prompting several silk spinning factories to shut down and the national textile and apparel industry to fully abandon the market or look for alternatives combining other natural and synthetic fibers.

1970-2000年,由於巴西東南部地區的快速工業化進程,以及各種農業機械和器具取代勞動力,勞動力從農村到城市加速流動,國內絲綢市場受到不利影響,繭的產量大幅下降,幾家絲綢紡紗廠關閉,國家紡織服裝業完全放棄了市場,用其他天然纖維和合成纖維來替代。

Over the last decade, driven by the higher productivity achieved through the mechanization and modernization of agricultural activity and the higher profitability focused on product quality, Brazilian sericulture has resumed its production of cocoons and in the last two years has tripled the volume of production in its most historically traditional Region of Cocoons called Alta Paulista, in the state of So Paulo, and has achieved stabilization in the volume of production of cocoons since 2014/2015 harvest.

在過去的十年,由於農業活動的機械化和現代化,以及產品質量帶來的高利潤,巴西養蠶業恢復了繭的生產。在過去的兩年內,在聖保羅州歷史最悠久的傳統繭地區Alta Paulista的產量增加了兩倍,自2014/2015年度以後,實現繭產量的穩定。

Fresh Cocoon Production in Brazil

巴西鮮繭產量

In view of launching of the International Year of Family Farming in 2014 by the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), Brazil has strengthened the prospects of this production system given the relevance of the sector on world stage. Minor crop is a model of agricultural production that has stood out in recent years. The dynamics of this social segment provide better conditions for environmental conservation, foster the development of techniques to increase productivity in smaller areas and enhance the coexistence of crop diversification in the same property. According to the Brazilian Institute of Geography and Statistics (IBGE), 90% of Brazilian municipalities with up to 20,000 inhabitants have family farming as the base of the local economy.

聯合國糧食及農業組織(FAO)正式宣布2014年為國際家庭農場年,鑑於該行業在世界舞臺上的重要性,巴西已經加強了該生產系統的前景。小農作物是近年來農業生產的典範。該社會階層力量為環境保護提供了更好的條件,促進了技術的發展,以提高小地區的生產率,並增強作物的多樣化共存。根據巴西國家地理與統計局(IBGE)的數據,在巴西人口多達20,000的直轄市中,90%以家庭農場為當地經濟基礎。

We have already seen a considerable increase in the number of active sericulture farmers (currently estimated at 2,500 families, more than 10,000 people directly involved in the field), and the higher profitability per hectare planted when sericulture is compared to other crops on small farms in Brazil. Our presence permeates regions with the lowest human development index in the country and has great potential of growth especially in rural settlements.

我們已經看到,桑樹種植農民數量大大增加(目前約有2500戶家庭,10,000多人直接參與該行業),與巴西其他小農作物相比,桑數種植每公頃利潤更高。桑數種植遍布全國人類發展指數最低的地區,具有巨大的增長潛力,尤其是在農村居民點。

In 2018/2019 harvest 222 municipalities have produced silkworm cocoons on 2,630 different family properties, representing an approximate volume of 3,034 tons of fresh cocoons in the following proportions: 84% in the state of Paraná, 11% in the state of So Paulo, and 5% in the state of Mato Grosso do Sul.

2018/2019年度,222個城市的2,630戶家庭農場收穫蠶繭,這代表收穫鮮繭約3,034噸,其中巴拉那州佔84%,聖保羅州佔11%,南馬託格羅索州佔5%。

The resumption of growth, although slow, is significant and sustainable as it is represented by new families of young people who are betting on Sericulture as their main livelihood activity on their own farms. Entrepreneurs and small investors who believe in technology applied to sericulture and are willing to invest in the activity based on the reliability of Brazil's unique silk spinning mill: Bratac.

增長恢復雖然慢,但意義重大且是可持續的。因為以青年人的新家庭為代表,他們將養蠶作為自己農場的主要生計活動。基於巴西獨有的絹紡廠Bratac的可靠性,相信蠶桑技術應用的企業家和小投資家願意對該活動進行投資。

Based on the new perspective of the domestic market, and the interest and appreciation of silk international market for Brazilian raw silk yarns, Abraseda was reformulated and restructured in 2017 to encompass the entire silk production chain in Brazil. The proposal for revitalization and modernization of Brazilian sericulture aims to increase production by strengthening activity, increasing value added in production, enhancing sericulture farmers within the context of family farming, access to national and international public policies, and partnerships in Research and Development.

基於國內市場的新視角,以及國際絲綢市場對巴西生絲的興趣和讚許,巴西絲綢協會於2017年進行了重組,以涵蓋巴西的整個絲綢生產鏈。巴西蠶桑業振興和現代化的提案旨在通過加強活動增加產量,進而增加生產附加值,在家庭農業的背景下加強養蠶業者,獲得國家和國際公共政策,獲得國家和國際公共政策、研發夥伴關係。

In Brazil, textile and clothing sector in general is characterized by intense market competition, both domestic and globally. There are approximately 30,000 production companies in the country engaging 1.5 million direct workers. Brazil manufactures 3% of the 90 million tons of textile and apparel products manufactured worldwide.

在巴西,紡織服裝業的總體特徵是國內外市場競爭激烈。巴西約有30,000家生產公司,直接僱用150萬工人。在全球9000萬噸紡織品和服裝產品中,巴西製造佔3%。

To compete in international economy, textile and clothing industry in Brazil is constantly investing. In the past 10 years, more than USD 1 billion per year were applied in machinery, equipment, new infrastructures, design, training and industrial capacity. In partnership with the Federal Government and Apex - Brazilian Agency for the Promotion of Exports and Investments, a program was created to promote exports and investments. Regardless of the modernization of national companies, challenges for the sector are present. Notably, the tax burden, the high cost of capital, the poor infrastructure and the expensive and not always qualified labor force are difficult barriers to overcome to increase Brazilian enterprises presence in the international market.

為了參與國際經濟,巴西紡織服裝業持續進行投資。在過去的十年,每年在機械、設備、新基礎設施、設計、培訓和工業生產能力方面的投入超過10億美元。與聯邦政府和巴西出口投資促進局合作,制定了促進出口和投資的計劃。不論國有企業的現代化如何,該行業都面臨著挑戰,諸如在稅收負擔、高昂的資金成本、落後的基礎設施和昂貴且並不合格的勞動力等方面,我們需要通過克服這些障礙來提高巴西企業在國際市場的競爭力。

At Silk business, such Brazilian reality is even more relevant.

在絲綢行業,巴西這種現實更為突出。

Raw Silk Production in Brazil

巴西的生絲產量

While fashion around the world moves over USD 2 trillion, and Brazilian fashion itself is projected to surpass USD 100 billion, silk business in Brazil does not exceed 2% of this value in overall imports and exports. We have a lot to learn. And we foresee many opportunities ahead.

儘管全球時裝業創收超過2萬億美元,巴西時裝業預計超處1000億美元,但巴西絲綢進出口額佔比不足2%。我們有很多東西要學。我們預見未來會有很多機會。

Silk Yarn Exported from Brzail, 2019

巴西2019年絲線出口

Unfortunately, Brazil is yet to take part of such silk consumption culture as performed already in Japan, China and Europe. It is important to join efforts among all and every silk business chain worldwide in order to strengthen our capabilities. On the other hand, due to the way sericulture is handled in Brazil there is a significant value added perceptive by end users and the achievement of at least 8 Sustainable Development Goals in the 2030 agenda agreed by world leaders from the United Nations. Embracing such goals means assuming the power to end poverty, fight inequality and stop climate change. Silk does it all. Silk is a call for action to change our world. Lets make our planet a better place to live. We look forward to working with you.

不幸的是,巴西尚未像日本、中國和歐洲那樣參與加這種絲綢消費文化。整個絲綢產業鏈及每一環節需要共同努力來提升我們能力。另一方面,巴西處理蠶桑業的方式能讓用戶最終感知到顯著的增值,實現聯合國世界領導人商定的2030年可持續發展議程中至少8個可持續發展目標。實現這些目標意味著消除貧困、消除不平等和阻止氣候變化。絲綢能做到這些,我們要採取行動來改變世界。把我們的星球變為更美好的生活場所。我們期待與您合作。

Thank you very much.

謝謝

來源:國際絲綢聯盟秘書處

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