文化交流雜誌特約作者 謝慶
祖籍浙江青田的徐月娟，憑藉自己過人的才華和勤奮，在高手雲集的歐洲時尚圈贏得了「怪才」設計師的稱號，也為華人設計師在歐洲贏得了一席之地。
在業界，她還有「剪刀手」的美譽。她曾代表義大利政府在上海世博會參展；她是美國前總統柯林頓以及眾多義大利政要的高級定製設計師；她是第一個走進米蘭時裝俱樂部的中國女人，同時也是被俱樂部第一個吸收為會員的華人。該俱樂部主席大衛·墨西拿稱讚說：「徐月娟的成功打破了米蘭時裝俱樂部的格局，她用自己的智慧敲開了時尚之都的大門，我們為有這樣一個新會員感到驕傲和自豪！」
徐月娟的品牌亮相羅馬時裝周。
中國越劇中找到設計靈感
在出國前，徐月娟曾在溫州學越劇。「那時候看著戲曲演員穿著水袖長裙，覺得女孩子穿上古代的服裝簡直太美了。漸漸地，我喜歡上了服裝，就在溫州專門學習了服裝設計。」
在溫州的這段經歷，為徐月娟打下了堅實的基礎。
「那時候，休息時間大家都流行看日本動畫片，像『一休哥』之類的。我都不看，而是去幫人家做義工。我一家一家地去裁縫店敲門，問他們要不要義工。我不要錢，只是要去學習。」徐月娟說，自己的縫燙技術都是在那個時候學會的。到了歐洲以後，這些技術就全部派上了用場。
1990年，徐月娟來到了時尚之都義大利米蘭從事服裝設計。語言障礙使得她一開始只能和華人進行溝通。一次偶然的機會，一家義大利服裝設計公司看中她的才華，聘請她設計衣服。從此，她敲開了義大利時尚界的大門。
要得到頂尖品牌匯聚的歐洲設計界的認可，並不是一件容易的事情。但徐月娟身上流淌著浙商永不服輸的血液，越受到質疑，她越要證明自己的實力。
較勁的女人，爆發力不可想像。那段時間，她為設計如痴如狂，向當時的未婚夫提出了一個很「苛刻」的要求：「我要在義大利開出第一場秀後才會跟你結婚。」
1995年，她舉辦了自己的首場個人服裝秀，大獲成功。第二天，才是她的結婚典禮。那之後不久，她和義大利籍的丈夫創立了一家屬於自己的服裝品牌：Delves-JK。
徐月娟（右二）亮相羅馬時裝周。
「Delves-JK是很精緻漂亮又很特別的百分百義大利製造。」法國知名時尚雜誌《Rendez－Vous》這樣評價Delves-JK。Delves-JK追求100%的義大利手工製作，精湛的手工工藝加上高端面料和嚴絲合縫的細節，使得義大利經典服飾散發出新的光彩。
「我的設計裡面有東方的元素，整個又是西方的氣質。」徐月娟介紹，Delves-JK曾多次同Louis Vitton、Armani、Dior等一線大牌一起登上《Rendez－Vous》雜誌，受到眾多時尚評論者的好評。「很多外國人說，這個設計師的作品確實有東西，東方西方的元素都在裡面。所以，時尚雜誌會把我的原創作品跟Dior放在一起。」徐月娟說。
致力於搭建中意文化橋梁
大約兩年前，筆者在義大利威尼斯與徐月娟有過一次暢聊。她在米蘭市中心有高端定製的時尚工作室，但她一年中大部分時間都是在博洛尼亞度過，拋開世俗的繁雜，她更享受在這個安靜的地方尋找設計靈感。
她的丈夫多納蒂·德爾維斯說：「我一直很欽佩我的妻子，她一直堅持著，為自己的理想和抱負努力著。」
天道酬勤，徐月娟多年的努力並沒有白費，她的設計得到了眾多同行的認可。義大利時裝設計師克勞迪婭·德賽迪說：「我一直很欣賞她獨特的風格，將義大利和中國兩種不同的文化巧妙融合。」
得益於中國的日漸強大，中國風開始在時尚界盛行。徐月娟將中國古典服飾的特色與歐洲時尚相結合，這種原創風格在歐洲高端定製界大受歡迎。很快，徐月娟成了紅人，她設計的服裝迅速躋身於世界高級時裝之列。
●徐月娟的作品亮相時裝周。
義大利素有「設計王國」之稱。這個國度活躍著約40萬華商，他們中的很多人在從事著與時尚相關的產業。徐月娟是義大利華商的傑出代表。
徐月娟告訴筆者，中國越來越強大，中國風在國際上也越來越受歡迎，歐洲時尚圈或將湧現更多華人設計師。
隨著中國綜合國力的提升，越來越多的華商進入並「改造」了義大利的主流產業，見證浙江人在義大利的崛起。浙江人的事業在義大利形成了兩個典型的市場，一個是面向全歐洲的羅馬華商貿易中心，另一個則是位於託斯卡納地區普拉託市的義大利製造中心。20多年來，浙江人活躍的商貿活動在幫助普拉託鞏固歐洲紡織中心地位的同時，還把它拓展成為一個歐洲的快時尚中心。
徐月娟說，希望能把自己的設計理念和經驗帶回中國，讓中國消費者更好地了解義大利高端時尚的概念，也希望通過她的努力搭建中意文化的橋梁。
Xu Yuejuan:
Chinese Fashion Designer in Italy
A native of Zhejiang, Xu Yuejuan arrived in Milan, Italy in 1990 and firmly established herself as a fashion designer there in Milan, Italy by staging her first fashion in 1995 and launching the Italian fashion brand DELVES-JK.
She is the first Chinese national admitted into the Milan Fashion Club. Her business designs and makes upscale custom-made cloths for high-end clients including the ex-president Clinton of the USA and some Italian government officials. She displayed her brand on behalf of the Italian government at Shanghai World Expo in 2010. Her upscale clothing operation is wholly manually tailored. The custom-made clothes are characterized by, among other things, deluxe fabrics and greatest attention to smallest details.
●徐月娟的作品亮相羅馬時裝周。
Two years ago I met Xu Yuejuan in Venice and had a long talk with her. She operates a studio in Milan but she spends most of her time in Bologna where she enjoys serenity and seeks inspiration.
She wanted to be a fashion designer when she was a young teenager learning to be a Yueju Opera artist. 「The softness and ethereality of the long sleeves of the costumes really fascinated me,」 she recalls. She fell in love with these costumes in the ancient style. She started learning about fashion design. Aware that design was only part of the fashion, she wanted to learn the practical part of the fashion. That is, she also wanted to be a tailor who could turn all beautiful design ideas into real things. So while her classmates amused themselves with Japanese animation films on television in their spare time, she visited tailor shops in Wenzhou to see if these tailors would accept her volunteer work for free. All the practical expertise she learned at these tailor shops helped her in Italy.
After her arrival in Milan, she had difficulties in finding a designer’s job. As the language was a problem, at first she could only deal with Chinese customers. Then accidentally an Italian fashion design business spotted her talent and employed her. It wouldn’t be easy for her to be recognized in Milan where top designers gravitate. She worked hard. And her 1995 solo fashion show was a huge success, putting her name on the map of Milan. The day after her fashion show, she married Donati Delves, an Italian engaged in fashion business. The husband adores and admires Xu for her hard work and ambition.
Xu’s design integrates the elegance of the East and the West. Her brand has been discussed alongside with famed brands such as LOUIS VUITTON, ARMANI, and DIOR in RENDEZ-VOUS, a French fashion magazine.
●徐月娟近照。
As China is becoming increasingly important in business, Xu has increasingly added Chinese elements into her design. She makes a difference in the fashion business that defines Milan. As a matter of fact, the Chinese business community in Italy has a population of 400,000, with a great number of them engaged in two business realms. The business people from Zhejiang play a key role in a trade center in Rome and in the garment industry in Prato. In the talk I had with her two years ago, she predicted that Chinese fashion designers would become increasingly prominent in the European fashion industry. She is one of these Zhejiang businesspeople who have helped reshape industrial Italy.
Xu Yuejuan has won professional awards and she has exhibited her brand in China. In February, her daughter Jessica and her son Kevin launched their brand JeKe in a fashion show held in Milan. Both the daughter and the son are now fashion designers, carrying on her mission started in the 1990s.