GiambattistaValli's Couture collection took inspiration from "Russian Ark", afilm set in 19th-centuryRussia
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FROM SNOWY WHITE dresses to giant gowns, Giambattista Valli tolda romantic story, fêted with a violin sonata, applauded by CélineDion and with a focus - like so much of Paris haute couture - onbold, puffy shoulders.
Puff sleeveswere a recurring theme in the Paris Couture collections thisyear
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Without a glimpse of his familiar glam Italian style, of floralpatterns or the colourful carpets he formerly laid on the floor,the designer was unravelling a very different story. Taking asinspiration the fluid dreamscape that unfolded in the movie"Russian Ark" (2002), Valli said that he was inspired by its imagesand tones.
Silk-satin,lace, and jewel embellishments all featured in this season'sGiambattista Valli Couture
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"I always loved this movie and I thought that now was the rightmoment - to give the show a new proportion and a new meaning," thedesigner said. "You go through different rooms and differentsections, moments and moods - all in one sweep. First is the wintergarden - no grass, no flowers, so everything in the show is frozen,even the lace and fur. I love the fragility and lightness."
He explained this to me before the show opened with aviolinist accompanying an opening parade of light dresses, short orlong, with raised waists and the sleeve puffed with toile or gauze- even when the outfit was a summer coat or in pink fur embroideredwith coral beading.
GiambattistaValli was happy to add embellished fur to his Couture show as hisclientele are "pan-seasonal"
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Valli said that he was interested in Russian artists and whatinspired them, but the show seemed more of a sweet idyll, expressedin frothy skirts, those full shoulders and skirts that grew to vastproportions for the final puffball gowns.
A profusionof pleats for a stunning ballgown worthy of Imperial Russia atGiambattista Valli's Couture show
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Halfway between a romantic and a realist, early on in hiscareer Giambattista understood that there was a new world of young,international clients to fill the front rows as they dated, marriedand went on vacation together, creating a new societyaudience.
GiambattistaValli's Couture show featured youthful looks alongsidesophisticated silhouettes
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But this show seemed to go deeper into the designer'sdream world, with clothes that were particularly light and delicatewith crystal buttons, embroidery and Buccellatti jewels.
Jewelledembellishments and crystal buttons and fastenings for discreetsparkle featured throughout the Giambattista ValliCouture show
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But could it be an Autumn/Winter collection with such light,balletic fabrics and the Russian fairytale feeling? GiambattistaValli was also one of the first to recognise a pan-seasonal world,whether from climate change or the geographical stretch ofhigh-fashion clients.
A selectionof ethereal looks in pleated silk chiffon made a poetic appearancealongside the more dramatic pieces insilk-satin
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"We dress up in winter, but some clients only have summer,so it is nice to have silk and fur in the same collection," thedesigner said.
A bolddisplay of four layers of texture and tone at Giambattista ValliCouture
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This collection was primarily of light evening clothes, whichincluded draped silk dresses, falling asymmetrically across thebody. As much as those puffy ball gowns, they showed the potentialfor a wide client base for a designer whose collection isindisputably haute couture, with a highly romantic twist thisseason.
GiambattistaValli's romantic Couture collection was a perfect reflection of theinternational social reach of his clientele
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Alberta Ferretti: Limited Edition
"I always start with a dream," Alberta Ferretti said. Andthis season's "demi-couture" collection, destined for the redcarpet, or at least after-dark events, offered a dream of the sea -not its sandy beaches and splashing waves, but somethingdeeper.
A palette ofocean-inspired hues and textures featured in Alberta Ferretti'sCouture collection
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Her inspiration was from the ocean floor, with a suggestion ofwaves, shells and the seabed as decoration - all applied to airyand ultra-light fabrics. The silken fringes poured like a shower ofwater over the body, delicate in neutral shades from cream tobeige, deepening to a watery green or blue. By the time the colourpalette reached a deep turquoise, the wave patterns becamestronger.
AlbertaFerretti Couture's collection took inspiration from theseabed
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But the more the embellishment, the less the dress, so thatsilvered embroideries were worked on semi-transparent chiffon orlace. Other ideas rising up from the ocean depths were thickerembroideries with a much darker base.
AlbertaFerretti's Couture was a masterpiece of mood and atmosphere,perfect for the red carpet
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The collection was titled "Limited Edition", which for otherdesigners means "Demi Couture". As I understand it, that means thata dress can be chosen by a client and then adapted in colour ordecoration, but is not made-to-measure to their exact body shape.Let's just say that these Alberta Ferretti dresses, exquisitelymade, are destined to be selected by a stylist and offered to starsfor a Big Night Out.
Unabashedlyglamorous silk fringing destined for twirl on thedancefloor
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