男性視角下的兔女郎+60年文化史
網絡衝擊迫使《花花公子》+60 years of Male Gaze, Donald Trump, and the Fall of Playboy with Social Media
網絡媒體的興起引發了一場無休止的快節奏娛樂風潮，至此扭轉並影響著現代消費行為，其中色情娛樂產業尤受打擊，網絡色情片以侵略式的姿態大肆霸佔了《花花公子》盤踞60多年的江山。Social Media has created an endless movement of fast entertainment producing serious transitions and influence on the modern consumer behavior, it especially took a hit on the erotic entertainment industry where the rise of digital fast cheap porn has killed over 60 years of
Playboy iconic history.《花花公子》不止是普通消遣品/桃色雜誌，它在1953年創刊之日起就象徵著「頂級美國夢」，擁有不言而喻的口號「《花花公子》：男人的休閒娛樂方式」。好萊塢影星名流，如：Marilyn Monroe、Madonna、Pamela Anderson、Kate Moss、Drew Berry Moore、Donald Trump、Anna Nicole Smith以及美國70年代初首批黑人女星/模特（如：Jackson）都曾榮登雜誌封面，改寫了昔日美女的主流標準。
Playboy was not your average entertainment / erotic sex magazine, founded in 1953, it was known to be the symbol of the 『Alpha American Dream』 where its slogan spoke for itself 「Playboy: Entertainment for
Men」. Hollywood icons from
Marilyn Monroe, Madonna, Pamela Anderson, Kate Moss, Drew Berry Moore, Donald Trump, to Anna Nicole Smith as well as the first black American stars /models in the early 70’s , such as the
Jacksons, graced the front covers shifting the mainstream beauty standards at the time.然而，隨著千禧年的到來、網絡媒體的壯大和消費觀念的日益全球化，《花花公子》主打的西方色情娛樂似乎已成明日黃花了。However, with the new millennial era, social media and the concept of a more globalized form of consumerism and taste, Playboy’s concept of western sex entertainment just seems to be something of the mere past, almost being archaic in a way.此外，無力回天的紙媒拖垮了雜誌的銷量，過去幾十年間的發行量重創連連。現今89歲高齡還擔任著《花花公子》主編兼創始人的Hugh Hefner，從昔日盡享紙醉金迷的花花公子豪宅，到2015年後不得不採取放棄刊登全裸女子照片來拉動銷量的舉措，如今甚至面臨著5億美金（2016年）出售整個公司和1億美金（最初叫價2億美金）出售豪宅的尷尬局面（路透社報導）。據《紐約時報》報導，《花花公子》的發行量從1975年的560萬暴跌至2015年的80萬，即便是品牌重塑後也未能挽回其持續下跌的困境。Moreover, with print media on an irreversible declining trend, the magazine has been suffering major losses in the past several decades. Founder of
Playboy, Hugh Hefner, who remains editor in chief at 89 years old, went from its notoriously glam/dirty
Playboy bunny mansion to now trying to sell non-nude issues since 2015 in order to drive more commercial sales (achieving a GQ type of positioning) as well as recently placing its
Playboy enterprise on sale for 500 Million USD ( in 2016) and selling its Mansion for 100 Million USD (1/2 of the $200 million it originally asked) - according to Reuters. Not to mention,
The New York Times reported that
Playboy’s circulation has dropped from 5.6 Million in 1975 to about 800,000 in 2015 and on a continuing decline since its recent non-nude re-branding, this is not a big surprise, it's like if we were shaving away beautiful golden locks on a girls hair taking the best asset she had.儘管《花花公子》早期知名度很高，能夠與蘋果、星巴克、可口可樂等公司齊名，但在吸引年輕消費者方面，卻顯得策略不明。千禧時代下的我們可以免費接觸到優質高清的色情資源、網絡色情、虛擬實境設備，並追求視覺效果和全新面孔，而《花花公子》則止步不前，似乎停留在了《廣告狂人》的年代。
According to media analysts, despite the magazines high brand recognition which can be compared to Apple, Starbucks, Coca Cola, in terms of brand awareness, Playboy does not appear to have a clear strategy on how to attract its future generation of younger consumers. With our millennial era of free access premium HD porn, web porn, VR sets and trending popularity for more explicit visuals and new faces, Playboy seems to be lagging behind like if it got stuck in the 『Mad Men』 era.
Hugh Hefner – 25th Anniversary 2016年不再刊登全裸女子照片的舉措更使其雪上加霜，飽受媒體吐槽：「居然拋棄了雜誌最顯著的特質，真是豈有此理？它還剩什麼值得驕傲的地方呢？」「如今人們不再尋求《花花公子》的性建議，也沒有人宣稱自己是花花公子了-這一稱謂早已消失殆盡。它曾經輝煌過、燦爛過、服務過，但不得不承認任何東西都有它的生命周期。Moreover, its recent move on no longer showcasing nude photos in its magazine lead to a further decline in sales and hit negative media reviews in 2016 ;
「The erotic magazine has switched to a no-nudes policy where the reasons for its existence are no longer in place」「How can you take the most important feature of your magazine and drop it? What it became notorious for.」「Playboy is no longer an appropriate channel for sex and sex advice, and nobody today refers to themselves as a Playboy man – the designation no longer exists. It had a great life, a healthy life, and it served a great role but we should recognize that everything has a life cycle.」 states
The Guardian (April 2 2016)由於銷量受挫、股東關係複雜、家族紛爭和無利可圖的授權協議，從1953年到2009年，花花公子企業在下坡路上越滑越遠，儘管如此，中國卻是它的最大消費國，花花公子品牌產品銷至3500家零售商。通過公司數據分析，該品牌2013年的年度零售額為15億美金，其中5億美金來自中國消費者。據此，CEO Scott Flanders稱之為「品牌的回天之力」。
Although the brand clearly showed signs of deterioration from 1953 to 2009 most likely having to due with pressure on sales, investor relations, family feuds, and unprofitable licensing deals, China still seems to be a large consumer of today’s Playboy. Even though the magazine is not published in China, Playboy-branded products are sold in +3,500 retailers. Out of Playboy’s $1.5bn in annual retail sales worldwide in 2013, over $500 Million came from China, according to company figures. CEO Scott Flanders called the figures 「testament to the tremendous power of our brand」.
PLAYBOYS TOP COVERS OF THE MALE GAZE SINCE 1953
我無法預測出《花花公子》的未來，但它確實成就了一批好萊塢明星、開拓了西方色情娛樂產業，定義了美的主流標準。下面是自1953年美國性感尤物Marilyn Monro創刊之日起的部分標誌性刊物。Even with China's promising sales, I don't really know what the future holds for Playboy, but they've surely contributed to Hollywood stars, pioneers of western erotic entertainment, and have created the bar for western mainstream standards of beauty. Here are some of the publications most iconic covers since its debut with America’s sex symbol,
Marilyn Monroe in 1953.《花花公子》雜誌第一期——Marilyn Monroe（1953）First Issue of Playboy with Marilyn Monroe-1953第一次演繹花花公子兔女郎——演員Donna Michelle（1964）Actress Donna Michelle-1964 – first Playboy Bunny interpretation美國黑人模特Darine Stern（1971），40年間，她獲得了最具影響力雜誌top 40封面人物（2005）Black American Model Darine Stern-1971, winning top 40 most important magazine covers in 40 years (2005)《霹靂嬌娃》主演Farrah Fawcett（1978）Charlies Angles Star Farrah Fawcett- 1978Supermodel Cindy Crawford- 1988Pamela Anderson第一次登上《花花公子》封面（1989），Anderson的處女作Pamela Andersons first playboy cover-1989, Andersons Debute Holiday Anniversary issue- Pinup Girls Happy New Year Playboy Cover-1976Pamela Anderson和尖頭外星族（1993）Pamela Anderson and The ConeHeads-1993Kate Moss 60th Anniversary Issue- 2014Pamela Anderson演繹《花花公子》最後一次全裸封面（2016）Last Nude Playboy Issue with Pamela Anderson-2016
所有圖片取材自我的手機和 網際網路
Photos sourced from the internet
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