梭織布有三種基本的結構/類別。即,
平織 plain Weave
斜紋 twill Weave
緞織 satin Weave
其他的結構都是基於這三種演變而來的。
Plainweave is the most basic of threefundamental types of textile weaves (along with satin weave and twill).
In plain weave, the warp and weft are aligned so theyform a simple criss-cross pattern. Each weft thread crosses the warp threads bygoing over one, then under the next, and so on.
Chambray, chiffon, gingham, organza, voile, seersucker,and taffeta are fabrics made on plain weave structure.
平織是以上提及的三種結構中最基本的。在平織結構中,經緯紗相互交織形成簡單的十字交叉(criss-cross)結構。每條緯紗與每條經紗交疊並不斷重複下去。(這是描述一個織造動作的過程,實際上我們看到的結果就是一種經紗和緯紗以一上一下的規律交織的織物組織)
常見的平織布有青年布(chambray)、雪紡(chiffon)、條格平布(gingham)、透明硬紗(organza)、巴裡紗(voile)、泡泡紗(seersucker)以及塔夫綢(taffeta)都屬於這種結構的布。
Twill is a type of textile weave with apattern of diagonal parallel ribs (in contrast with a satin and plain weave).This is done by passing the weft thread over one or more warp threads thenunder two or more warp threads and so on, with a "step," or offset,between rows to create the characteristic diagonal pattern. Because of thisstructure, twill generally drapes well.
Serge, denim, drill and gabardine arefabrics made on twill structures
.
斜紋組織同平織以及緞織結構比起來,好像是有很多平行的對角線構成。它實際上是由於在織造的時候,緯紗不是不間斷地與相鄰的經紗交疊,而是跳過一根或者多根經紗再與下一根經紗交疊,由此形成一個個小的臺階,最終就形成了我們看到的效果。
嗶嘰(serge)、牛仔(denim)、卡其布(drill)以及華達呢(gabardine)都是屬於這種結構的布。
Theterm satin is used or warp face structure and sateen is used for weft facestructure. In pure sateenand satin weaves there is one interlacing for each warp yarn and only oneinterlacing for each weft yarn in each repeat of the weave.This result inproduction of fabrics with a maximum degree of smoothness and luster andwithout any prominent weave effect.
Buckskin,venetian,and damask are fabricsmade on satin structures.
人們稱經面緞紋布為satin而成緯面緞紋布為sateen。在單純的緞織結構中,每個織造循環只有一根經紗或者緯紗。這樣在布料生產過程中可以最大限度地保證布料光滑或光澤而不至於導致布面有突兀的部分。
緯緞仿鼴鼠皮布(buckskin)、直貢呢(venetian)和錦緞(damask)都是由這種結構織成。
這就是關於梭織布定義和分類的基本知識,接下來我們會針對典型的一些針織布進行配圖簡單介紹!