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They found one, and tried to land; but so irresistible29 was the suction of the retiring wave, that, whenever they got foot on the sand, and tried to run, they were wrenched30 out to sea again, and pounded black and blue and breathless by the curling breaker they met coming in.
After a score of vain efforts, the negro, throwing himself on his back, went in with a high wave, and, on touching31 the sand, turned, dug all his ten claws into it clenched32 his teeth, and scrambled33 like a cat at a wall. Having more power in his toes than the Europeans, and luckily getting one hand on a firm stone, his prodigious34 strength just enabled him to stick first while the wave went back; and then, seizing the moment, he tore himself ashore, but bleeding and bruised35 all over, and with a tooth actually broken by clenching36 in the convulsive struggle.
He found some natives dancing about in violent agitation37 with a rope, but afraid to go in and help him; and no wonder, not being seagulls. By the light of their lanterns, he saw Fullalove washing in and out like a log. He seized one end of the rope, and dashed in and grabbed his friend, and they were hauled ashore together, both breathless, and Fullalove speechless
The negro looked round for the sailor, but could not see him. Soon, however, there was a cry from some more natives about fifty yards off and laterns held up; away he dashed with the rope just in time to see Jack38 make a last gallant39 attempt to land. It ended in his being flung up like a straw into the air on the very crest40 of a wave fifteen feet high, and out to sea with his arms whirling, and a death shriek2 which was echoed by every woman within hearing.
In dashed Vespasian with the rope, and gripped the drowning man’s long hair with his teeth: then jerked the rope, and they were both pulled ashore with infinite difficulty. The good-natured Frenchmen gave them all three lots of vivats and brandy and pats on the back, and carried the line for th