外貿服裝QC如何快速寫驗貨報告 SUNNY
本人自學服裝英語斷斷續續一年有餘,發現寫英語驗貨報告還是有很多訣竅和方法的,下面我總結一下如何快速完成英語驗貨報告,與同行們分享,由於本人無服裝專業背景,所以有錯誤之處或是不妥之處,還請指正。
一般外貿服裝QC在驗貨結束時,都要提交一份驗貨報告。這份驗貨報告直接反映所驗服裝大貨品質、包裝的基本情況。QC要如實準確的描述驗貨結果,並結合自己的經驗等提出解決方案。
服裝大貨質量關聯到服裝生產的整個環節,從設計design--製版pattern making---裁剪cutting---縫製sewing---熨燙pressing----後整trimming---包裝packaging等,任何一個環節出錯,都會造成大貨的質量問題。當QC驗貨時,發現大貨某一問題,不僅要會準確描述出來,更要會判斷問題處在哪一個環節,如何去解決。言歸正傳,下面談談如何快速完成英語服裝驗貨報告-garment inspection report。
一、英語驗貨報告中常見的一些「萬能」單詞及用法:
1.uneven--adj. 不均勻的;不平坦的。在服裝英語中,uneven有不等長的,不對稱的,不平服的,不均勻的。
(1)不等長的。例,在描述襯衫的左右門襟長短不一,可以用 uneven placket length;長短袖---uneven sleeve length;領尖長短不一---uneven collar point;
(2)不對稱的。例,領不對稱--uneven collar point/end;褶長不對稱---uven pleats length;
(3)不平伏的。例,省尖不平伏--uneven dart point;
(4)不均勻的。例,線跡不均--uneven stitching ;下擺寬窄不一--uneven hem
其用法也很簡單:uneven+部位/工藝。這個單詞在驗貨英語中極為常見,意義也很豐富。所以一定要掌握!
2.poor-在服裝英語中的意思是:不好的,差的,不良的。
用法:poor+工藝+(部位);poorly shaped+部位
(1)做工差--poor workmanship
(2)熨燙不良--poor pressing
(3)縫製不良--poor sewing
(4)袋形不好--poorly shaped pkt
(5)腰上的不好--poor waitband finishing
(6) 回針不良--poor back stitch
3. missed/missing+sth at +部位 ---服裝的某個部位缺sth
missed/missing+工序---漏了某道工序
(1) 漏車縫---missed stitching
(2)欠墊紙---missed tissue paper
(3)缺紐扣--missing one button at the left cuff
4.服裝某個部位--扭曲、拉伸、起浪、彎曲
wrinkled/twisted/stretched/distorted/wavy/puckering/curve/crooked+部位
(1)夾圈起皺---puckering armhole
(2)下擺起扭---twisted hem;裡布起扭--twisted lining
(3)線跡起波浪--wavy stitching
(4)縫起皺---puckered seam
5.misplaced+sth at +部位----服裝某道工序位置錯誤
(1)印花錯位---misplaced embroidery
(2)肩墊錯位--misplaced shoulder pads
(3)魔術帶錯位--misplaced velcro tapes
6.wrong/incorrect +sth 某物用錯
(1)摺疊尺寸不對--wrong folding size
(2)掛牌錯--wrong hangtag
(3)主嘜/洗嘜錯--wrong mainlabel/carelabel
7.____+mark---表示。。痕跡
(1)pencil mark鉛筆印
(2)glue mark膠水印
(3)fold mark摺痕
(4)wrinkled mark 起皺
(5)creases mark 皺痕
8.起吊:hiking at+部位 或者:部位+ride up
9.easing--吃勢。ease on+部位+uneven--某部位吃勢不均 。例如在鞝袖、上拉鏈、鞝領子,都會要求「吃勢要均勻」。如果在驗貨時發現某部位吃勢太少/太多/不均,我們就要用到easing這個詞。
(1)前中領圈吃勢太多---too much easing at CF neckline
(2)袖山吃勢不均---uneven easing at sleeve cap
(3)前中拉鏈吃勢太少--too little easing at front zipper
10.線跡。線跡+部位---表示某部位用什麼線跡。SN stitch=single needle stitch車單線;DN stitch=double needle stitch雙線;triple needle stitch三線;edge stitch車邊線;overlock with 3/4/5 threads--三/四/五線拷邊;
(1)SN stitch at front yoke
(2)edge stitch at top collar
11.high & low+部位 表示:服裝某部位高低不平。
(1)高低袋:high & low front chest pockets
(2)高低腰:high & low waistband ends
(3)高低領:high & low collar ends
(4)高低領圈:high & low back neck
12.某部位起泡、鼓包導致不平服。Crumple/bubble /bulge/bump/blistering at+部位
(1)bubbling at collar領子起泡
(2)Crumpled at top collar 領面起泡
13.反吐。如裡布反吐、止口反吐、袋布暴露等
部位+visible
部位1+leans out of +部位2
(1)袋布外露---pocket bag visible
(2)克夫止口反吐---inner cuff visible
(3)前中反止口---facing leans out of front edge
14.把。。。鞝到。。。。 Set-in /sew together A and B /attach ..to... /A assemble to B
(1)鞝袖:sew sleeve to armhole、set in sleeve、attach sleeve to body
(2)鞝克夫:sew cuff to sleeve
(3)鞝領:set-in collar
15.unmatched--常用在:袖底十字縫未對牢、不對格/條、襠縫未對牢
(1)十字縫錯位--unmatched crotch cross
(2)前中不對格/條---unmatched stripes &checks at CF
(3)袖底十字縫未對牢--unmatched under armhole cross
16.OOT/OOS---out of tolerance/out of specification 超出規格/公差
(1)胸圍超出規定尺寸2cm---chest OOT +2cm
(2)衣長少於規定尺寸2cm---body length front from HPS-hip OOS-2cm
17.pls improve workmanship/styling/fitting--改善工藝/版型/尺寸。在描述一項問題後,可以加上這一句,以提高重視。
18.汙漬、斑點等。
(1)dirty spot at collar---領有汙點
(2)Water stain at CF-前中有水漬
(3)Rust stain at snap 急紐有鏽跡
19.部件+not secure---某部件不牢固。常見的有釘珠,釘紐扣。。
(1)beads stitching not secure--釘珠不牢
(2)Insecured button
20.布紋用錯或絲縷歪斜wrong or slanted grain line at +部位
(1)前片的絲縷錯誤--wrong grain line at front panel
(2)褲腿絲縷歪斜導致褲腿起扭--leg twisted because of slanted grain line at leg
(3)布紋裁錯--wrong grain line cutting
21.某部件裝的、鞝的不好--poor +部位+setting
(1)poor sleeve setting
(2)poor collar setting
22.部位/工藝+isn't follow sample exactly 某部位/工藝未按照樣衣做
(1)pocket shape and size not follow sample exactly
(2)embroidery on chest not follow sample exactly
23.服裝問題+caused by +原因
(1)shading caused by poor color interlining matching
(2)front edge twisted caused by no easing at zipper
24.服裝某處太鬆了、太緊了 部位+appears+loose/tight ;too loose/tight at +部位
二、其他
UNBALANCE COLLAR
ASYMMETRIC COLLAR 領不對稱
UNEVEN COLLAR WIDTH
UNEVEN NECKLINE
UNEVEN COLLAR POINT
UNEVEN LAPEL SHAPES
TOO MUCH EASING AT CF NECKLINE
COLLAR TOO TIGHT AT CB
COLLAR BAND IS TWISTING
FULLNESS AT FRT COLLAR AND LAPEL
NECKLINE IS NOT SMOOTH
NECK SETTING NOT SMOOTH
HIGH AND LOW BACK NECK
EDGE OF FRT OPENING IS CROOKED
FRT OPENING NOT STRAIGHT
FRT FACING IS EXPOSED AT BOTTOM HEM
FRT OPENING FACING IS SHORTER THAN BODY
NECK WAS STRETCHED
TOO MUCH TIE ON FRT COLLAR領口處有豁口
PUCKERING AT LEFT /RIGHT ARMHOLE
TOO LOOSE AT RIGHT ARMHOLE,UNEVEN FOR LEFT /RIGHT ARMHOLE
SLEEVE RUNNING TO BACK/FRT/BACK
TOO LOOSE AT FRT SLEEVE SEAM
TOO TIGHT AT BACK SLEEVE SEAM
POOR CUFF SETTING
SLEEVE PLACKET IS NOT SET WELL
UNERARM SEAM WAS STRETCHED
ARMHOLE SETTING NOT SMOOTH
EASE ON SLEEVE CAP IS UNEVEN
EASE ON +SP+IS UNEVEN 某部位吃勢不均勻
UNEVEN +SP
CURVE AT SP...
TOO MUCH FULLNESS AT ....
RAW EDGE=OPEN SEAM=SEAM SLIPPAGE
UNTRIMMED TRREAD ENDS
SKIPPED STITCHING
EXPOSED STITCHING
RUN-OFF STITCHING
CROOKED STITCHES
POOR JION STITCHING
UNSIGHTLY OVER-LAPPING STITCHINES
STITCHES TII LOOSE/TIGHT
DISTORTED STITCHES
BROKEN SEAMS
EXPOSED STITCHING 落坑線外露
INCONSISTENT STITCHING線步不一致
UNEVEN STITCHING DENSITY/TENSION
1/4TOP STITCH NOT EVEN
EXPOSE SAFTY STITCH
TOP AND UNDER STITCH TENSION NOT MATCH
MISSING REINFORECEMENT STITCHES
ROE OF STITCHING MISSING
STITCH COUNT LESS THAN STANDARD
ALL TOP STITCH IS UNEVEN
BLIND STITCH IS BROKEN
SHOULDER SEAM NOT SMOOTH
UNEVEN FOLDED WIDTH AT BOTTOM SWEEP 1/2HEMMING
BLIND STITCH VISIBLE
INCOMPLETE SEAM STITCHING針跡不完整
UNEVEN FOR HEM CLOSURE STITCHING.UNEVEN STITCH AT HEM
EXPOSED WAISTBAND RUNNING STITCHES
NOT STRAIGHT AT FRT FLY
NOT STRAIGHT AT BACK YOKE
SKIPPING STITCHES ,LOOPING STITCHES跳線、線跡松起耳仔
SEAM ALLOWANCE ,SEWING THREAD TOO TIGHT
PLEATED SEAM
PUCKERD SEAM
OPEN SEAM=BURST SEAM
UNDER SEAM VISIBLE底骨露面
WAVINESS ON SEAMS
TWISTED SEAMS=SEAM ROLLING 扭骨
TWISTED AT SIDE SEAM
SEAM CLOSURES UNEVEN
MISSING BAR-TACK AT SP
SEAM NOT PROPERLY SECURED縫不牢固
FULLNESS ON SEAMS
SEAM NOT FULLY OPENED BEFORE STITCHING
CRACKED SEAM
TOO LOOSE AT PRINCESS SEAM
PUCKERING AT BACK PRINCESS SEAM
TOO TIGHT OR LOOSE AT SIDE SEAM
UNBALANCE OF FRT & BACK PANEL AT SHOUDLER SEAM
TOO FLAT AT SHOULDER SEAM,TOO SLANT OF SHOULDER SEAM.
BUBBLE /BUMP AT PLACKET EDGE
TWISTING/ TWISTED/ WAVINESS / ROLLING / WAVY
WRONGLY USED STH
POOR+WORKMANSHIP AT SP
INCORRECT SHAPE OF STH
STH NOT AS SAMPLE
MMT OUT OF TOLERANCE
THE UNDER CROTCH MEET POINT NOT MATCHED
STH ASSEMBLE TO STH2 某部組裝到某部
CMT-CUTTING/MAKING/TRIMMING
PO.NO.生產製造單編號
NEEDLE CHEWING針痕
MISSED SEWING OPERATION
UNMATCHED JION STITCHING 駁線不良
RAW EDGE=OPEN SEAM=SEAM SLIPPAGE
UNTRIMMED TRREAD ENDS
SKIPPED STITCHING
EXPOSED STITCHING
RUN-OFF STITCHING
CROOKED STITCHES
POOR JION STITCHING
UNSIGHTLY OVER-LAPPING STITCHINES
STITCHES TII LOOSE/TIGHT
DISTORTED STITCHES
BROKEN SEAMS
EXPOSED STITCHING 落坑線外露
INCONSISTENT STITCHING線步不一致
UNEVEN STITCHING DENSITY/TENSION
1/4TOP STITCH NOT EVEN
EXPOSE SAFTY STITCH
TOP AND UNDER STITCH TENSION NOT MATCH
MISSING REINFORECEMENT STITCHES
ROE OF STITCHING MISSING
STITCH COUNT LESS THAN STANDARD
ALL TOP STITCH IS UNEVEN
BLIND STITCH IS BROKEN
SHOULDER SEAM NOT SMOOTH
UNEVEN FOLDED WIDTH AT BOTTOM SWEEP 1/2HEMMING
BLIND STITCH VISIBLE
INCOMPLETE SEAM STITCHING針跡不完整
UNEVEN FOR HEM CLOSURE STITCHING.UNEVEN STITCH AT HEM
EXPOSED WAISTBAND RUNNING STITCHES
NOT STRAIGHT AT FRT FLY
NOT STRAIGHT AT BACK YOKE
SKIPPING STITCHES ,LOOPING STITCHES跳線、線跡松起耳仔
SEAM ALLOWANCE ,SEWING THREAD TOO TIGHT
PLEATED SEAM
PUCKERD SEAM
OPEN SEAM=BURST SEAM
UNDER SEAM VISIBLE底骨露面
WAVINESS ON SEAMS
TWISTED SEAMS=SEAM ROLLING 扭骨
TWISTED AT SIDE SEAM
SEAM CLOSURES UNEVEN
MISSING BAR-TACK AT SP
SEAM NOT PROPERLY SECURED縫不牢固
FULLNESS ON SEAMS
SEAM NOT FULLY OPENED BEFORE STITCHING
CRACKED SEAM
TOO LOOSE AT PRINCESS SEAM
PUCKERING AT BACK PRINCESS SEAM
TOO TIGHT OR LOOSE AT SIDE SEAM
UNBALANCE OF FRT & BACK PANEL AT SHOUDLER SEAM
TOO FLAT AT SHOULDER SEAM,TOO SLANT OF SHOULDER SEAM.
BUBBLE /BUMP AT PLACKET EDGE
TWISTING/ TWISTED/ WAVINESS / ROLLING / WAVY
WRONGLY USED STH
POOR+WORKMANSHIP AT SP
INCORRECT SHAPE OF STH
STH NOT AS SAMPLE
MMT OUT OF TOLERANCE
THE UNDER CROTCH MEET POINT NOT MATCHED
STH ASSEMBLE TO STH2 某部組裝到某部
CMT-CUTTING/MAKING/TRIMMING
PO.NO.生產製造單編號
NEEDLE CHEWING針痕
MISSED SEWING OPERATION
UNMATCHED JION STITCHING 駁線不良
stain汙漬
oil spots 油點
oil stain 油漬
water spots 水點
water stain 水漬
rust stain 鏽漬
pen mark
pencil mark
chalk mark
glue stain 膠水漬
glue mark膠水痕
untrimmed thread ends
loose thread線跡松
dust fibers attached on fabric surface 髒汙纖維附在織物表面
loose fibers attached on fabric surface 鬆散纖維附在織物表面
color shade variation 色差
color off tone 脫色
glaze起鏡
poor irioning
crease mark
wrinkle mark
fold mark
unmatched checks
unmatched stripes
sewn in wrong fabric side布正反面用錯
sewn in wrong fabric direction布紋用錯
washing mark
uneven washing effect洗水不良
burned 燒毛過度
scorched焦痕
over pressed(seam impressions)熨燙過度
stretched shape due to pressing 熨燙不良(伸長)
distorted shape due to pressing 熨燙變形
bubbles due to improper fusing 裡籿不良造成起泡
2014年6月2日19:49:27於南京新街口