小的首飾展 | 小的奇玉 The Adventures of Jade

小的首飾展 | The Small Jewelry Exhibition

小的奇玉 |The Adventures of Jade

 

參展藝術家 | Artists  

李安琪 | Ankie Lee

開幕時間｜Opening time ：2019.09.28（周六）15 : 00

展覽時間｜Duration：2019.09.28 - 10.13

14:00 - 17:00 展覽期間無休

藝術家在廊 | 09.28 - 10.02

地點｜Venue ：The Closer Studio 北京市東城區安定門內大街永恆胡同5號｜

No.5 Yongheng Hutong, Andingmennei Street, Dongcheng District, Beijing

秋季新展即將開幕，這一次的參展人是李安琪。

有意思的是，當我跟很多首飾創作者提起安琪，他們對她的名字印象還有點模糊，可是當我給他們看安琪的作品，大家會很激動地說：原來是她！我好喜歡她的作品！說萬眾期待有點誇張了，但確實有一些朋友們很希望有機會在現場觀看她的作品。

Our autumn exhibition is about to open, and the exhibitor we』ll introduce you this time is Ankie Lee.

When I mentioned about Ankie to other jewelers, this name seems still a little bit strange, but when I presented her works, everyone would be excited: 「Oh, it’s her! I’m fond of her works!」 It might be exaggerated to say that her works are widely anticipated, but indeed, quite a lot of my friends truly hope to appreciate her creation on the spot.

我是你的項鍊   金紙，膠水，某物，你  2018

《我是你的項鍊》是一條掛在樹上的金屬質感鏈子，延伸到地面有兩個金色的腳印，觀眾可以通過踩在腳印上的方式，成為這棵樹的項鍊的一部分。當然，從一個更大角度來說，成為地球的一條項鍊。

「I’m Your Necklace」 is a metal-like chain with one end hanging on a tree, while the other end extending to the group and forming two golden footprints. The audience can become part of this work and create a connection with the tree by stepping on the footprints. Of course, from a larger perspective, this work can be seen as a necklace of the earth.

你是我的戒指  大地，吊環螺絲，銅箔  2013，2018

《你是我的戒指》則是將戒指倒置插入地面，觀眾可以附身去佩戴已成為戒指一部分的大地。

這一對作品受到皮耶羅·曼佐尼作品的啟發。

The companion work, 「You’re My Ring」, consists of a set of rings mounted upside down into the ground, and the audience may bend down and try to wear one of the rings that have become part of the ground.This pair of works was inspired by the creation of Piero Manzoni.

我對安琪最深的印象，除了她的首飾作品，還有她的文字表達。以前上學碰巧跟她一起上了一個學期的課，同是首飾專業的學生，聽她的作品闡述，很難不被吸引。她的文字是有粘性的，被它們輕輕碰一下就給粘住了，然後被她的觀點或者追問「誘導」著繼續思考下去，這些思考的軌跡與創作的結果共同構成了一把或者很多把小小的鐵錘，不斷敲鑿探索著當代首飾的邊界。

What impressed me the most are not only Ankie’s jewelry works but also her appealing words. I used to attend the same class with her for one semester during school days, when we were both jewelry students. While listening to her explanation over her works, I found it difficulty not to be attracted. Her words are sticky, with a gentle touch, you will be firmly captured. Then you will be 「induced」 by her points of view to think over in her preset direction. The trajectory of these thoughts coupled with the results of her creation constitutes one or many small hammers that are constantly chiseling the boundaries of contemporary jewelry art.

孔洞

如何在一個平面上打洞？

我們無法在一個平面上打洞。

一件首飾有洞，

我們可以佩戴它。

如果它沒有洞，

那麼我們需要有洞。

總之，我們中的一方，是有洞的。

所以聯繫起我們兩者的，

不是實在的鏈條，繩子，金屬，

而是洞。

所以洞是虛空間嗎？

是也不是。

如果用子彈給人打洞，

他會歸於虛無；

如果用光給夜幕打洞，

它會成為星星。

HOLE

How can we drill a hole through a plane?

We aren’t able to drill a hole through a plane. 

If there is a hole in a piece of jewelry,

We can wear it. 

If there is no hole in it,

We need to be pierced.

In a word, either of us must be holed.

Thus, it is not chains, ropes or metals that connect jewelry and us,

But holes.

So, is it a hole a negative space?

Yes and No.

If a bullet makes a hole through a man, 

He’s gonna be nothing;

If a beam of light makes a hole through the curtain of night, 

It’s gonna be a star.

宣言系列  Declaration Series  2018

而幾年過去了，李安琪的作品一直不斷「變幻「著形態，她對材料的實驗與轉化，對觀念的消解與重建，對傳統的審視與顛覆，將首飾這一創作對象演繹的豐富而多面。本次展出的作品是她近兩年的最新創作，以極具中國傳統文化特徵的「玉」為研究對象，卻在我們熟識的以「溫潤」為標籤的概念之下，用她一貫的銳利觸角揭開了那些「玉的隱喻」，娓娓道來，淋漓生猛。

Year after year, Ankie Lee’s works have been constantly changing their forms. With experimentation and transformation of materials, resolution and reconstruction of ideas, and examination and subversion of traditions, she has endowed jewelry with an enriched and multifaceted manifestation. The works exhibited this time are her latest creations in the past two years, which concentrate on a traditional Chinese cultural symbol 「Jade」. However, under the labels of 「gentleness and warmness」 that we usually associate with jade, she unveils those "metaphors of jade" using her sharp tentacles, incisively and vividly.

 

玉相-56   和田玉，玉線   2018

「56，對於中國人來說，是個有意義的數字。這個數字不僅代表一個大的群體，也代表每個個體。是什麼把我們聯繫在一起？是什麼使我們歡笑？又是什麼使我們流淚？」

「56 is a meaningful number for Chinese, since there are fifty-six ethnic groups in China. The number not only presents a large group of people, but also includes every individual. So what weaves us together? What makes us laugh? And what makes us crying?」

「小玉臉系列與56相對，沒有專門選材料，也沒有整齊劃一的笑容，用的是切割玉石時產生的邊角料，玉線的起點和終點自然地形成了它的眼睛。誰說玉石總是溫潤的？從平磨機上下來，它們被磨出了稜角。」「The Jade Faces series is in opposition to 56. There is neither special selection of materials, nor a uniform design of smiles. They are created by using the residuals generated while cutting raw jade, and the starting point and the end point of the thread naturally form the eyes on the faces. Who said jade must always be gentle and warm? Coming from the flat mill, they also bring along their own edges.」 （「56 is a meaningful number for Chinese, since there are fifty-six ethnic groups in China. The number not only presents a large group of people, but also includes every individual. So what weaves us together? What makes us laugh? And what makes us crying and bleeding?」）玉相-21世紀玉組佩  吊墜  和田玉，玉線  2018玉雕是以退為進的藝術，在整個雕刻過程中，只能通過削減材料去建立涵義。正是這種單純的材料和單一的工作方式成就了中國數千年的玉文化。安琪的玉組佩系列將從不同層面反映當代中國人的精神和品質，換言之，作品以玉喻人，玉之相，亦為人之相。Jade engraving is an art of retreating, as throughout the engraving process, the artists can only establish and deliver their connotation by cutting out and removing some of the materials. The combination of a simple material with a single way of working has achieved China’s profound jade culture for thousands of years. Unlike this tradition, Ankie’s Jade Ornament Series attempts to reflect the spirit and quality of contemporary Chinese from different angles. In other words, her works imply the nature of human and the connection with jade.玉是留給時光永恆的禮物。先人們無論在生前或死後都要在身體上佩戴玉，是因為他們認為讓具有億萬年生命的玉，和數十年生命的人，將彼此的生命互相給予，以到達永生。Jade is an eternal gift reserved for time. Our ancestors must wear jade on their bodies both at birth and death, because they believe that jade, with a life of billions of years, and human being can empower their lives to each other in this way, so that they would both reach immortality.

玉相-21世紀玉組佩  吊墜  和田玉，玉線  2018

古代的人們嚴格遵照等級，將禮制體現在服飾上，玉也作為禮的載體，用來當作溝通日月天地，對話祖先的語言。古代玉組佩常見的玉器形制，如玉環，玉璜，玉玦，玉璋，玉圭，玉斧和玉璇璣等，不同形狀的玉片串接成句子，在身體上被佩戴成段落，組成一具完整的生命面貌。而在這組作品中，作者藉助「顏文字」這一當代新型語言符號，以輕鬆詼諧的方式，把這些古老的形制重新排列組合，形成屬於21世紀的中國玉組佩。In ancient times, Chinese people embodied the ritual system on their clothes by strictly following the hierarchy, while jade, as a carrier of this ritual system, was used to communicate with the heaven and earth, and with the ancestors. The ancient set of jade ornaments usually consists of some familiar shapes in life, such as jade ring, jade huang, jade jue, jade tablet, and jade axe, and so on so forth. These jade pieces of different shapes are connected into a sentence, which is then worn into a paragraph on the human body like a complete life. In this set of works, the artist uses the contemporary linguistic symbols of 「emoji」 to rearrange these ancient shapes in a relaxed and humorous way to form the set of jade ornaments belonging to the 21st century.

玉相-一鳴驚人  和田玉，棒棒糖塑料棒，透明膠帶  2018

「口琀常為蟬的形態，寓意逝者可以如蟬一般蛻變重生。但在生者的世界，以蟬為造型的玉吊墜則寄託著「一鳴驚人」的心願。在生與死的兩端，人們共享著同一個符號。當一個人把玉蟬棒棒糖放進嘴裡，他會感受到死亡的冰涼，還是生存的甜蜜？」

「The ornament in death’s mouth is usually in the shape of a cicada, which implies the death could rebirth like the insect. But for the living people, a cicada pendent embodies the wish which is to amaze people with a single brilliant feat. At both ends of life and death, we share the same symbol. When a cicada lollipop is put into one’s mouth, would it taste like a cold death, or a sweet life?」

吹泡泡   玉扳指，木筆桿  2019

吹泡泡   玉環，臺木夾擰杆  2019

《吹泡泡》系列是在「小的首飾展」首次展出的全新作品，它們由大小各異的玉環與十個不同材質的零件組裝而成。安琪把古老而帶有某種神秘色彩的玉，跟現實世界裡平凡而實用的物品「強制」組裝在一起，成為具有功能性的用來吹泡泡的工具。它們的兩兩碰撞與組合，促成了一樁樁如同穿越劇一般荒誕而引人入勝的「奇遇」。故此，就有了我們這次展覽的名字：小的奇玉。

「Dip it ~ Blow it ~」 is a brand-new series of works that has just been released and will be first ever exhibited at the "The Small Jewelry Exhibition". This series consists of 10 works, each formed by a jade ring combining with another accessory of a different material. Ankie 「forcefully」 assembles jade, which carries an ancient and mysterious temperament, with an ordinary and practical object in the real world to make it into a functional 「bubble maker」. The collisions and combinations between jade and those real-life objects produce a number of fascinating and absurd adventures just like those 「time-travel TV shows」, and this is also the inspiration for the name of our exhibition: 「The Adventures of Jade」.

「同樣都被稱為寶石，為什麼玉總是被打孔，而不被鑲嵌呢？雖然我們現在總能看到被鑲嵌的翡翠，但在茫茫的玉文化當中，玉和人的關係，總是開始於一個洞。當我們圓起雙唇，發出「yù」這個音節，嘴巴也自然地形成了玉璧的形狀。玉的形狀，溫度和質感都凝結在這一個發音中。而人也可以被看作是一塊玉，不僅是因為我們願意去相信玉與人格的共通，也因為

人天然地有洞，比如嘴巴和肛門。這麼說來，人不也是一顆被打了孔的珠子嗎？」 下段排版重複請略過 （「口琀常為蟬的形態，寓意逝者可以如蟬一般蛻變重生。但在生者的世界，以蟬為造型的玉吊墜則寄託著「一鳴驚人」的心願。在生與死的兩端，人們共享著同一個符號。當一個人把玉蟬棒棒糖放進嘴裡，他會感受到死亡的冰涼，還是生存的甜蜜？」）

「As one of the gems, why is jade always punched rather than stone-setting? Although nowadays we can see some jade pieces being set, in the traditional jade culture, the relationship between jade and human being is always starting from a hole. When we’re curling our lips and pronouncing the syllable 「yù」 (jade), our mouth naturally forms the shape of a jade disc. The shape, temperature and texture of jade are all condensed in this pronunciation. In fact, human being can be regarded as a piece of jade. This is not only because we are willing to believe in the commonality between jade and personality, but also because human naturally has holes, such as mouth and anus. So, isn't human being also a bead that has been punched?」

吹泡泡   玉環，木，銀，不鏽鋼  2019

「謙謙君子，溫潤如玉」，到了今天，什麼樣的石頭夠格被稱為「玉「已有了明確的標準，達標的石頭有鑑定證書。可時至今日，」君子「的標準又是什麼呢？人是否也該像玉一樣，根據既定的嚴格關卡，層層篩選，去分出一個三六九等呢？那些沒有達標的石頭，似乎也就失去了躋身「君子」行列的機會，淪為次等貨，在行業裡被稱為「垃圾料」。於是安琪用這些「君子」中

的垃圾，垃圾中的「君子」，做了一些看似不太嚴肅的作品，比如《吹泡泡》系列。

「The modest gentleman, gentle as jade」, to this day, we have already established a clear standard for what kind of stone can be called 「jade」. A qualified stone can even be issued a certificate of identification. However, what is the standard for 「gentleman（Jun Zi）」? Should human also be classified into different classes as jade according to established checkpoints and criteria? Those stones not qualified for the standard seem to have lost the chance to be regarded as 「gentlemen」 and are even called 「junk materials」 within the industry. Thus, using these junks in 「gentlemen」 and 「gentlemen」 in junks, Ankie created some seemingly not-so-serious works, which are the 「Dip it ~ Blow it ~」 series.

「如果一塊石頭上有洞，除了給它穿繩和捅它，我們還可以做什麼呢？

「If there is a hole on a stone, what can we do besides passing a thread through it and pocking it?

在我打磨一個袈裟環的時候，它的洞在水盆裡總能帶起一個吹彈可破的薄膜。這層薄膜躍動著彩虹般的光澤，擊破了機械式繁複打磨的枯燥。「如果能吹吹它多好！」 不管多麼拘謹嚴肅的人，都不會拒絕吹泡泡的遊戲，即使吹出來的泡泡終將破滅，我們樂此不疲。人多可愛呀！我們都是洞的子孫，我們都來自某個洞，所以會對這些有洞的玩具著迷吧。」

While I was polishing a cassock ring, its hole always formed a blown bubble in the water. The membrane of the bubble has a rainbow-like luster, pulling me out of the tedious work of mechanical grinding. 『I really want to blow it!』 No matter how serious someone is, he/she will not refuse the game of blowing bubbles. Even though the bubbles blown out will be shattered eventually, we are not tired of it. How interesting we are! We are all descendants of the hole, as we all came from a hole somewhere. This might be the reason why we are so fascinated by these toys with holes.」

歡迎來展覽現場，親歷這意想不到的「奇玉」，泡泡它，吹吹它。

Welcome to the exhibition to experience this unexpected 「Adventure of Jade」. Dip it ~ Blow it ~

展覽海報設計：張樂

部分圖片及文字資料由藝術家本人提供，版權所有，未經允許請勿轉載。

李安琪

南京藝術學院專任教師 

教育背景

2012-2014 羅德島設計學院(RISD)| 碩士 | 首飾和金屬工藝 | 美國羅德島普羅維登斯

2008-2012 中央美術學院(CAFA)| 本科 | 首飾設計 | 北京

工作經驗

2017.10 - 至今 南京藝術學院 | 專任教師

2016.11 - 至今 Traditionow 手藝創承 | 駐地設計師

2015.06-2017.09 廣東技術師範學院 | 專任教師

2014.12-2015.02 億鑽珠寶有限公司(香港)| 高級設計員

2013.07-2014.05 羅德島設計學院 | 首飾系技術員助理

2013.02-2013.06 羅德島設計學院 | 首飾設計課程教師

參展經歷（部分）

2018 幻變有時——李安琪個人作品展 | 橘色畫廊，南京

2018 三世之界 - 國際當代首飾設計與藝術大展 | 昊美術館，上海

2018 萌生—中國青年創意設計展拍 | 布隆貝裡畫廊 , 倫敦

2017 且又:當代藝術中的首飾 | 時尚迴廊 , 北京

2017 「梅香」滕菲當代首飾展 | 今格藝術中心 , 北京

2017 姿鈦 - 當代首飾人聯展 | J-Tour 首飾廊，上海

2016 三生萬物 - 國際當代首飾設計與藝術大展 | 高更畫廊 , 北京; 盛璽美術館 , 天津 

2014 羅德島設計學院研究生畢業作品展 | 會展中心，羅德島普羅維登斯

2013 北京國際首飾藝術展 | 中華世紀壇，北京

2013 珠寶大盜:羅德島設計學院首飾系三年展 | 索爾 • 考夫勒畫廊，羅德島普羅維登斯

2012 快閃:羅德島設計學院首飾系雙年展 | 伍茲畫廊，羅德島普羅維登斯

2012 十年有聲:當代首飾展 | 中央美術學院美術館，北京

2011 藝術北京 | 農業展覽館

獲獎經歷

2016 瑤繡藝術展一等獎 | 廣東瑤族博物館

2013-2014 蒂凡尼公司獎學金 | 蒂凡尼珠寶公司基金會

2012-2014 羅德島設計學院研究生獎學金 | RISD 基金

2012-2014 羅德島設計學院獎學金 | RISD 基金

2012-2013皇家馬爾謝獎學金 | 皇家馬爾謝基金會

2012 恆信鑽石獎 | 恆信鑽石宮殿

2011-2012 中央美術學院優秀畢業作品三等獎 | 中央美術學院

2009-2011 中央美術學院獎學金二等獎 | 中央美術學院

2008-2009中央美術學院獎學金三等獎 | 中央美術學院

2009 中國首屆校園新銳珠寶設計手稿大賽 30 強 | 施華洛世奇

溫馨提示

由於展期內9月28日-10月1日處於國慶活動期間

二環內道路可能出現不定時交通管制

建議大家儘量避免開車出行

根據實際情況選擇公共運輸工具

講座分享活動

在本次展覽進行的同時，李安琪的講座分享會也將與大家見面。感謝RMS首飾工作室對本次活動的鼎力支持。在分享會中，安琪將和大家一起聊聊近幾年的創作經驗，以及每一件作品背後更豐富的內容。相信面對面的認識和交流能夠讓你更深層的了解藝術家和她的作品，無論你有任何的好奇和疑問都可以來現場得到解答。

活動時間：9月29日（周日）15:00開始，講座結束後可以自由交流

活動地點：RMS首飾工作室（北京市朝陽區酒仙橋銀楓家園5號樓A905室）

活動費用：免費

報名渠道：因席位有限，參與本次活動請掃描下方RMS官方微信，與客服報名確認

部分作品在線上合作平臺

「關於首飾的一切」同步展售

永恆胡同5號

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The Closer Gallery | Studio

北京東城區安定門內大街永恆胡同5號

No.5 Yongheng Hutong, Andingmennei Street, Dongcheng District, Beijing

可乘坐地鐵2號線到安定門站A口出，向南步行300米至安定門內大街第一個紅綠燈路口處，右轉進入永恆胡同，直行20米到達。