一位曾經為美國商隊拍水手證件照的攝影師,
一位曾經六十年代兩大刊物的首席攝影師,
一位被公認的20世紀人像攝影裡程碑的攝影師,
一位徹底改變20世紀時尚攝影的攝影師。
他不僅拍明星政客,社會名流,也拍無名小卒。同時也是時代記錄者,拍美國的民權運動,拍反戰,拍美國西部的貧困,甚至還去過越南。
Richard Avedon, 1963
Richard Avedon - An Autobiography - 1993
「 如果每張照片都偷走了我的一點靈魂,
難道我不可能每次拍照時
都放棄自己的一部分嗎?」
—— Richard Avedon
美國時尚攝影大師
理察·阿維頓 Richard Avedon
(1923.5.15 - 2004.10.1)
Richard Avedon self-portrait, Provo, Utah, August 20, 1980
Richard Avedon 是20世紀最著名的攝影大師之一。從高級藝術到商業影像,再由前衛時尚到波普藝術,Richard Avedon 的職業生涯被美國著名的藝術評論家蘇珊桑塔格列為「 上個世紀職業攝影的典範之一 」。
Patrick Demarchelier (1943-) - Richard Avedon, 1993
「 最失落的兩個職業是牙醫和攝影師:
牙醫想當醫生,攝影師想成為畫家。」
—— 畢卡索(Pablo Picasso)
Young Richard Avedon, by Hermann Landshoff, 1948
然而,Richard Avedon 卻是個意外,他最初是想成為詩人,卻意外成為了攝影大師。但如果你用心觀瞻他的攝影作品,會發現他每次快門按下的一瞬間,光影定格的場面,宛若一首表現主義詩歌。
Richard Avedon 1960
他的每一幀人物肖像,都如同一則短詩,雋永而深刻。在他的鏡頭中,人物外在形象只是粗略的記錄,更多著重展現的,則是人物內心的情感。Richard Avedon 好像有一種天然的敏感性,能夠洞穿拍攝人物的內心,發掘和記錄下她們不為人知的另一面。在他的鏡頭下,赫本是優雅的,也是失落脆弱的;性感大膽的夢露,也會了流露出迷茫憂傷的神色。
Richard Avedon Self-Portrait, 1963
以時尚攝影起家的 Richard Avedon,在日後的成就遠遠超出了這個領域,《紐約時報》曾評價他的照片,「 定義了美國在過去近半個世紀來,關於風格、美與文化的標準。」
Veruschka with Richard Avedon, New York, January 1967
Richard Avedon 不僅用他的相機捕捉穿著優雅服裝的模特,還用它來講述故事和喚起情感。從極簡主義的大型肖像畫,揭示瑪麗蓮·夢露等名人的內心情感,到把模特杜維瑪帶出工作室,帶進馬戲團,他的作品徹底改變了這個行業。
Richard Avedon. 'Self portrait, New York City, July 23, 1969
Richard Avedon, photographer, New York City, May 31, 2002
◆ 1923年5月15日,Richard Avedon 生於美國紐約,父親是俄羅斯的猶太人。他的母親安娜·阿維登(Anna Avedon)來自一個服裝製造商家庭,父親雅各布·阿維登(Jacob Avedon)擁有一家服裝店。
Avedon 從小就對攝影產生了濃厚的興趣。他的父親向他展示照相機如何運作,而他小時候拍的多組家庭合照則讓其認識到了展示的重要性。在其人生後期,他回憶道:他的家庭會從朋友或者親戚那裡借狗,來「 裝扮 」他們的照片,並在戶外或者車前面拍照。而沒有一樣東西是屬於他們的。其祖父母所居住的公寓與著名音樂家拉赫瑪尼諾夫(Rachmaninoff)在同一個街區裡,當他還是孩子時,Avedon 喜歡跟蹤他,下決心一定要拍下這位偉人。這是他攝影才華早期的體現,那時候他年僅10歲,就已經開始他的柯達 Box Brownie 相機進行拍攝了。
「 一天晚上,
我和父親一同走在第五大道上,
經過廣場酒店時,
我看見一個拿相機的禿頭男人
正在給一個倚樹而立的漂亮女人擺姿勢。
他叫她仰起頭,為她整理了一下裙子,
然後按下快門。
後來,我在《Harper’s Bazaar》上
看見了這張照片。」
而在日後,當他成為了時尚攝影師,方才恍然大悟,那位攝影師之所以選擇那棵樹,是因為它樹皮剝落的樣子與香榭麗舍大道上的樹一模一樣。
Avedon 12歲時就加入了青年希伯來協會(YMHA)的攝影俱樂部。但在那時候,Avedon 顯然沒有打算將攝影作為畢生的職業的。事實上,他想成為一名詩人,而TS·艾略特(TS Eliot)是他青少年時期的偶像。
Dewitt Clinton High School, 1941
他就讀於布朗克斯區的德威特·柯林頓高中(DeWitt Clinton High School),Avedon 在上中學的時候,他的理想不是繼續做時裝經營而是做一名浪漫的詩人,在那裡他遇到了他的好朋友詹姆斯·鮑德溫(James Baldwin),並與 James Baldwin 共同編輯了該校的文學雜誌《喜鵲》(Magpie)。1941年,他被授予紐約市中學桂冠詩人稱號。
James Baldwin, writer, Harlem, New York, 1945
高中畢業後,Avedon 在哥倫比亞大學(Columbia University)學習哲學和詩歌,但這僅是短暫的與文學打了個照面。一年後,便選擇了去海軍服役。
「 我意識到我並沒有足夠的情智
去通過感染我的情感素材來表達自己。」
◆ 1942年,隨著二戰到來,在朋友的建議下,Avedon 加入了美國商船以逃避徵兵。他的任務是給所有人的證件拍大頭照,事實上,他曾表示,在他意識到自己在變成一位攝影師前,他已經「 給大概10萬張困惑的面孔 」拍過了照片。他開始用一臺父親給他的祿來(Rolleiflex)給商船隊的船員拍證件照了(當時是戰時,商船屬於美國海軍的一部分,所以需要拍照登記)。這也是他接觸攝影的開端。
「 我的工作是拍攝身份照片。
在我成為一名攝影師之前,
我一定已經拍了十萬張臉的照片。」
上千張照片拍下來,他找到了自己的職業方向。
「 我當上攝影師這個意外,
讓我這一生充滿了可能性。」
AVEDON, Richard. An Autobiography. WITH, Evidence 1944
Richard Avedon 從小就很喜歡人像和時尚,這也許和他父親在紐約第五大道經營的女裝時尚店有關。在這裡,Avedon 從小就認識到了女人與時尚的關係。他從父母訂閱的《Vogue》、《Vinity Fair》和《Harper's Bazaar》等頂尖時尚雜誌內看到了許多時尚攝影作品,並收到一些啟發。
◆ 在海軍退役後的1944年,他在給一家百貨商場做廣告攝影師時,被《時尚芭莎》(Harper's Bazaar)雜誌的藝術總監布羅德維奇(Alexey Brodvitch)發現。從此,剛剛21歲的他受僱於《Harper's Bazaar》。起初,他否認該雜誌使用攝影棚,而是在大街上、夜總會裡、馬戲團裡、海灘上以及其他不常見的地方為模特和時裝拍照。他運用了無窮的智慧和創造力,這成為了他藝術的標誌。在 Brodvitch 的指導下,他很快成為《Harper's Bazaar》的首席攝影師。
Fifi Wheeler, shirt by Mandel, shorts by Lillian Abbott, Jones Beach, New York, March 1945
Brodovitch 必然是看到了 Avedon 獨特的品質。儘管他是一位年輕、具有雄心的攝影師,但其作品中的當代性通過鮮明的態度和對於規模和圖像勇於冒險的精神得到了體現。這與他的整個職業生涯相伴相隨。這麼多年來,在他團隊中工作過的人會告訴你:他充滿能量的想像力得以讓經典的圖片誕生,無論是肖像,例如他拍下的一張無比昭然若揭的溫莎公爵與其夫人的照片,還是其充滿生命和原創性的時裝攝影。
Ann Theophane Graham Theo Graham, playsuit by Groblue, Nassau, The Bahamas, March 1946
《Harper's Bazaar》是在東海岸出版的著名時裝雜誌,它為 Avedon 提供了一副高大的骨骼框架,使得他得以長成一隻羽翼豐滿的大鳥。可以說,Avedon 在一個正確的時間出現在一個正確的地方,在 Brodvitch 時期,他從來不曾墨守成規,Avedon 在他的鼓勵下,不斷實踐他對攝影的新認識。Avedon 一直在《Haper's Bazaar》工作到1966年。
Doe Avedon and Diana Vreeland, New York, 1946
◆ 兩年後(1946年),他開設了屬於自己的攝影工作室,為各大雜誌如《 Vogue》及《Life 》拍照,最後成為了《Harper’s Bazaar》的總攝影師。
Italy #2, Trastevere, Rome, July 24, 1946
Model wearing a bathing suit by Young Things, Daytona Beach, Florida, March 1946
From the studio of Richard Avedon 1947 in New York by the Swedish photographer Sten Didrik
Basic White Dress, 1947
Richard Avedon 職業生涯中的首個突破在1948年。在 Dior 的「 新風貌 」(New Look)剛開始流行時,他伴隨 Carmel Snow 前往巴黎,以拍攝這位高級定製大師的第二場發布會。以及,憑藉年輕的自信,他並不知道何為失敗,他打破了數十年的傳統時裝攝影。那些僵硬、雕塑般的 Horst P Horst 照片,或者 Beaton 宛如18世紀的肖像都專注於正式感的紋絲不動感:所展示的服裝只不過是上流社會生活的一部分。在 Vreeland 的名言「 給他們永遠不知道他們想要的東西 」的激勵下,Avedon 打破了僵硬、凝重的圖像。其照片的重點在於動感。
Renée, The New Look of Dior, Place de la Concorde, Paris, August 1947
Doe Avedon ( Richard Avedon's first wife) in Dior Aug 1947
Painter Christian Bérard and Renée, suit by Dior, Le Marais, Paris, August 1947
Palermo, Sicily, 1947
Italy #16, Palermo, Sicily, September 3, 1947
Italy #16, Palermo, Sicily, September 3, 1947
Noto, Sicily, September 5, 1947
Richard Avedon's first Harper's Bazaar cover, featuring Ford model Natálie Nickerson, January 1947
當然了,動感在時裝攝影上並不是什麼新東西。在1930年代的時候,Martin Munkacsi、 Toni Frissell 和 Norman Parkinson 就對此有所涉及,但僅限於運動主題的拍攝:女性跳向大海或者其他非正式的活動。Avedon 所做的,則是將動感介紹到世界上最正式的服裝上,並給予他們讓年輕人感到激動的精氣神,在高級定製領域此屬首次。他讓那些充滿框架感的服裝,如果不是完全休閒,也是讓它們變得稍微平易近人。第七大道上的百貨公司們迅速認識到這一點,並賺得盆滿缽滿。好不誇張的說,正式 Avedon 將 Dior 的大師筆觸,結合自己的大師筆觸,以此創造出了新穿衣方式的可能性。他的方法,就是將其展示方式美國化。
Ballet Dancers, 1948
Black Cat, Paris, 1948
Coco Chanel, 1948
Dorian Leigh, Bergdorf Goodman, 1948
Elise Daniels wears a turban by Paulette, Paris, 1948
Elise Daniels with street performers Suit by Balenciaga, Le Marais, Paris, August 1948
Elise Daniels with street performers, suit by Balenciaga, Le Marais, Paris, 1948
Elise Daniels, gown by Hattie Carnegie, Paris, January 1948
Elise Daniels, hat by Paulette, Place Vendôme , Paris, August 1948
Italy, 1948
Lisa Fonssagrives wearing a hat by Elsa Schiaparelli. Harpers Bazaar, 1948
Monique in Christian Dior 'Dickens' Ensemble, Paris, 1948
Shoe by Perugia, Place du Trocadéro, Paris, 1948
14th Street subway station, New York, May 16, 1949
Capucine in hat by Dior, 1949
Central Park, New York, 1949
Dorian Leigh wearing a wedding dress by Edward Molyneux for Harper’s Bazaar, 1949
Dorian Leigh wearing Dior coat, 1949
Dorian Leigh wears an evening gown by Piguet in a photo taken in Helena Rubinstein’s apartment in Paris, 1949
Dorian Leigh, hat by Dior, Gare de Lyon, Paris, August 1949
Dorian Leigh. Paris, August 1949
Elise Daniels and Monique, 1949
Elise Daniels wearing Dior's 'Arizona' coat from his Autumn Winter Collection 1949
Fifth Avenue, New York, September 8, 1949
Harlem, New York September 6, 1949
Harlem, New York, March 23, 1949
Harlem, New York, September 6, 1949
Harlem. New York City. USA. 1949
Lenox Avenue, Harlem, New York, August 29, 1949
New York Life #11, Central Park, New York City, November 17, 1949
New York Life #17, Fifth Avenue, New York, October 26, 1949
New York, October 24, 1949
Richard Avedon 花了幾年時間拍攝紐約的日常生活。他被派到巴黎報導春季和秋季時裝系列。他的任務是在網上展示不同模特的照片,這些模特穿著新時尚出現在這座城市。在整個20世紀40年代和50年代,他創作了優雅的黑白照片,展示了現實生活中最新的時尚。
Theo Graham wearing a Christian Dior gown, Paris, 1949, for Harper’s Bazaar
Third Avenue El, New York, July 22, 1949
Third Avenue El, New York, November 17, 1949
Upper West Side, New York, August 30, 1949
Barbara Mullen, 1950
Christian Dior, Harper's Bazaar, 1950
Cole Porter, NYC, 1950
Dorian Leigh wearing a Jane Derby dress in a 1950
Dovima in a Balenciaga dress and hat in Paris, 1950
Dovima models a Balenciaga gown for Harper’s Bazaar, 1950
Veronica Compton 1950
Barbara Mullen, New York in April of 1951
Carmel Snow, editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar, May 11, 1951
Dorian Leigh, Harper's Bazaar, April 1951
Dovima, 1951
Dovima, attire by Tina Leser, Giza, Egypt, January 1951
Judy Garland, 1951
Marlon Brando, April 19, 1951
Sunny Harnett, 1951
Dorian Leigh Parker to the left of Carmel Snow, Suzy Parker to the right, and Richard Avedon, standing, 1951
從他的職業生涯開始,Richard Avedon 就為戲劇藝術、生活、時裝、《Haper's Bazaar》雜誌和其他許多雜誌拍攝正式的肖像照。他著迷於攝影,因為它能表現人物的個性,喚起人們對人物生活的回憶。他認為姿勢、態度、髮型、服裝和配飾是形象中至關重要的、具有啟發性的元素。他完全相信攝影的二維本質,並將其規則應用於自己的文體和敘事目的。
Buster Keaton, comedian, NewYork, September 1952
Charlie Chaplin, 1952
Audrey Hepburn, April Harper's Bazaar, 1952
「 我的照片不會深入到表面之下,
我對表面很有信心,
一本好的書是充滿了線索的。」
Richard Avedon, Dorian Leigh 1952
Anna Magnani, New York, April 17, 1953
Audrey Hepburn, New York, December 18, 1953
Georgia Hamilton wears a Balenciaga dress and matching hat for Harper’s Bazaar, Paris, 1953
Richard Avedon 在拍攝時尚照片時,他喜歡將模特和助手帶出攝影棚,到街上去拍攝。在拍攝中,他要求模特要處在運動中,他認為,模特不是照片裡不是個衣架子,而是個活人,要有靈魂和神韻傳達出來。
Gloria Vanderbilt, December 17, 1953
Marella Agnelli, 1953
他從模特方面著手:Suzy Parker、Dovima、Dorian Leigh 和 Sunny Harnett 不僅美麗、年輕,還充滿了性格。他們在協和廣場上四處奔跑,甚至穿上溜冰鞋,他們坐在廉價的酒吧櫃檯,他們與裝扮摩登的年輕人相伴而行,其中最受歡迎的是一位英國牙科學生 Robin Tattersall,他們能讓衣服看上去普遍、年輕並充滿吸引力,但這些之上是感到真實並與一群新的高級定製顧客建立了對話。這是,一個新的形象,雖然巴黎的傳統主義者不予置評,但很明顯的 Richard Avedon 在一季中,完成了 Dior 從1947年開始的事業。
Audrey Hepburn for Sabrina, 1954
Casino, Le Touquet, August 1954
Evening dress by Balenciaga, 1954
Mae West with Mr. America, New York, 1954
Marilyn Monroe, 1954
Sunny Harnett in Christian Dior Evening Dress, 1954
Sunny Harnett shot in Paris, 1954
Sunny Harnett, in a Dior evening gown, with Kirk Douglas, Paris, 1954, for Vogue
Judy Garland and Richard Avedon, 1954
Marilyn Monroe and Richard Avedon, Photographed by Sam Shaw, 1954
Richard Avedon in Rome, 1955
◆ 1955年,Richard Avedon 為迪奧晚裝拍攝的一輯黑白圖片《多維瑪與大象》(Dovima with elephants)。
Dovima with Elephants, Evening Dress by Dior, Cirque d'Hiver, Paris, August 1955
Dovima, wearing Dior, poses with elephants at the Cirque d』Hiver, Paris, 1955
這組圖片中,皮糙肉厚的大象和纖細時尚的女模特形成強烈反差,給人的視覺帶來很大衝擊,一舉奠定了他在時尚攝影界的地位。他除了拍攝名人外,更拍普通人、認識的人、甚至是在街上碰到的人。
Richard Avedon and the model Dovima, Cirque d'Hiver, Paris, 1955
Carmen (Homage to Munkácsi), 1955
Gloria Vanderbilt in dress by Mainbocher New York, Harper’s Bazaar, March 1955
Cary Grant for Harper’s Bazaar, 1955
Grace Kelly, January 14 1955
Griffe, 『Dortoir des Grandes』, 1955
Dovima enters Maxim’s in Paris wearing a dress by Jean Patou, 1955
Jacqueline de Ribes, New York, December 1955
James Cagney, c. 1955
Dovima for the cover of Harper's Bazaar 1955
Katharine Hepburn, 1955
Dovima in Christian Dior 1955
Marian Anderson, Contralto, New York, 1955
Marlene Dietrich, Turban by Dior, The Ritz, Paris, 1955
Dovima in Paris wearing an afternoon ensemble by Christian Dior, 1955
Marlon Brando and Frank Sinatra, Los Angeles, 1955
Truman Capote, 1955
Dovima models a Givenchy gown with Emilien Bouglione, a chimpanzee and a clown at the Cirque d』Hiver, Paris, August 1955
Dovima wearing Dior at the Eiffel Tower, Paris, 1955
Dovima wears a cloche hat by Givenchy at the Café Les Deux Magots, Paris, 1955
Dovima, hat by Balenciaga, Maxim’s, Paris, August 1955
Dovima, Harper's Bazaar, december 1955
Dovima wearing a hooded dinner dress by Balenciaga, Paris, 1955
Aldous Huxley, New York City 1956
Alfred Hitchcock, New York, 1956
Audrey Hepburn and Richard Avedon working out a pose during a 1956 photo session in Paris. Hepburn is wearing an ensemble by Givenchy.
Paris. The Tuileries Gardens. Richard Avedon, fashion photographer and technical director, advising Fred Astaire on his role as a photographer. by David Seymour, 1956
Richard Avedon on the set of Funny Face (1956)
Audrey Hepburn, 1956
Audrey Hepburn - for the movie Funny Face, 1956
Audrey Hepburn on the cover of Harper's Bazaar, October 1956
Dovima, 1956
Elizabeth Taylor for Look magazine, 1956
Ethel Merman, actor, New York, September 10, 1956
Fred Astaire, Paris, 1956
Gardner McKay and Suzy Parker in evening dress by Patou , at Le Sheherazade, Paris, August 1956
Marilyn Monroe, 1956
Pablo Picasso, 1956
Richard G. Robinson, Actor, February 13, 1956
Suzy Parker (with Gardner McKay and Robin Tattersall) wearing an evening gown by Lanvin-Castillo at the Café des Beaux Arts, Paris, August 1956
Suzy Parker (with Gardner McKay) wears an evening gown by Lanvin-Castillo, Paris, 1956
Suzy Parker in a Christian Dior gown and drape for Vogue, Paris, 1956
Suzy Parker in Madame [Alix] Grès , 1956
Suzy Parker models a gown and stole, Paris, 1956
Suzy Parker, in red and grey print satin ball gown named 「Opera de Vienne」 by Dior, with Robin Tattersall and Gardner McKay (shown from back) at Maxim’s bar, Paris, August 1956
◆ 1957年,好萊塢甚至以 Richard Avedon 的事業為藍本,拍了部由弗雷德·阿斯泰爾(Fred Astaire)和奧黛莉·赫本(Audrey Hepburn)主演的電影《甜姐兒》(Funny Face)。
Audrey Hepburn and Fred Astaire on the set of Funny Face, 1957
Audrey Hepburn for Funny Face, 1957
Audrey Hepburn, 1957
Audrey Hepburn, Cosmopolitan, Feb 1957
Carmen (in Yves Saint Laurent for Dior) and Robin Tattersall on the Pont Alexandre III Paris, August 1957
Carmen Dell』Orefice (with Robin Tattersall) wears Lanvin-Castillo for Harper’s Bazaar, Paris, 1957
Carmen Dell』Orefice at Folies Bergere, Paris, for Harper’s Bazaar, 1957
Carmen Dell』Orefice in a photo for Harper’s Bazaar, Paris, 1957
Carmen Dell』Orefice wears Lanvin-Castillo, Paris, 1957
Carmen Dell』Orefice, 1957
Dovima in a Hattie Carnegie suit and hat, with actor Ray Bolger, Harper's Bazaar, 1957
Dovima in a publicity photo for Funny Face, 1957
在他的鏡頭下,超級名模、世界巨星們,如瑪莉蓮·夢露、奧黛麗·赫本、巴布·迪倫、崔姬等,都不是標準化的、消除了情緒與獨特性的美麗人偶,Richard Avedon 透過他知名的黑白攝影,減約又純粹地捕捉了鏡頭前的人物動態,毫無保留地展現了被攝者的困惑、憂傷、喜悅、憤怒等各種情緒。
Elsa Maxwell, columnist, New York, December 11, 1957
Marilyn Monroe and Arthur Miller, May 1957
Marilyn Monroe and the tiger, 1957
Marilyn Monroe in 1957
Richard Avedon 還非常善於用聊天來引導被攝者的情緒。在他拍攝前期,常問被攝者一些很嚴肅的問題,例如生死或者傷痛。因此,我們在他的作品裡看到一些名人的形象常和我們印象裡的不太一樣。比如,他作品集中最著名的那張「 悶悶不樂的瑪麗蓮 」,一副顯得非常疲憊並帶著悲傷的夢露的形象和她性感妖豔給我們帶來的日常感覺完全不同。
Marilyn Monroe, actress, New York City, May 6, 1957
Sunny Harnett, Evening Dress by Grès, Casino, Le Touquet, 1957
Suzy Parker and Robin Tattersall, Laroche Coat, Paris 1957
「 我摸索出了一系列 'NO' 的工作方式,
不要精緻的燈光、不要明顯的組合物、
不要充滿誘惑力的姿勢與敘事,
而這些 'NO' 也逼著我抵達了 'YES' 。
我有一個白色的背景,
有一個我感興趣的人,
並且有一些張力發生在我們之間。」
Albert Camus, 1958
Alberto Giacometti, 6th of March, 1958. in Paris
Carl Th. Dreyer. April 1958
China Machado in Harper’s Bazaar, 1958
Diana Vreeland, 1958
Dolores Guinness, hair by Alexandre, Paris, January 1958
Dorian Leigh and Robin Tattersall in an advertisement for the British fashion label Susan Small, 1958
Dorothy Parker, writer, New York, June 17, 1958
Dovima and Betsy Pickering wear dresses by Lanvin-Castillo for Vogue, 1958
Dovima in a dress by Veneziani, New York, August 1958
Dr. J. Robert, Oppenheimer, physicist, Princeton, New Jersey, December 11, 1958
Elizabeth Taylor, 1958
Ezra Pound, Rutherford, New Jersey, 1958
Gabrielle Chanel, couturière, Paris March 6, 1958
Georgia O』Keeffe, Artist, New York City December 6, 1958
James Thurber, cartoonist and writer, New York, December 10, 1958
Marcel Duchamp, artist, New York, January 31, 1958
Montgomery Clift in Montauk, New York. 1958
René Clair, director, New York, July 6, 1958
對剩下的半個世紀而言,這完全是一次時裝革命,不僅是設計師設計和展示的方式,更包括了其如何被拍攝的方式。衣服再也不像希臘雕塑那般僵硬,而如同真是女性一般婉約婀娜。從1948年的圖片算起,他在行業中工作了半個世紀。他為 Calvin Klein 拍攝的 Brooke Shields 出鏡的牛仔褲廣告,他在80年代為 Versace 拍攝的廣告大片,滿是飛行的人物,跑動、彈跳、像小狗般依偎作一團。這對雜誌中的時裝廣告和時裝大片,以及戶外廣告起到了深遠的影響。
Suzy Parker, Harper's Bazaar, April 1958
Wanda Landowska, Musician, New York, June 7, 1958
Marilyn Monroe emulates five iconic sex symbols (Lillian Russell, Marlene Dietrich, Clara Bow, Jean Harlow, and Theda Bara) in a series of photographs taken for Life Magazine, 1958
Wearing a ring by Cartier, 1958
Alexey Brodovitch and Richard Avedon, 1958
◆ 1959年為蘇茜·帕克(Suzy Parker)拍攝的泳裝照,就被譽為對引發比基尼潮流功不可沒。
Audrey Hepburn - Sepember 1959
Audrey Hepburn and the cat for Harper’s Bazaar, september 1959
Audrey Hepburn, Mel Ferrer, and Buster Keaton, in 「Paris Pursuit」 for Harper’s Bazaar, Paris, August 9, 1959
Brigitte Bardot, 1959
Cary Grant and Sunny Harnett [model], New York, 1959
China Machado, 1959
Reverend Martin Cyril D'Arcy, S.J., New York January 10, 1959
Sophia Loren, 1959
Yves Montand and Simone Signoret, actors, New York, October 23, 1959
Audrey and Richard Avedon in Paris on their way to a shoot for Harper’s Bazaar in 1959. Photo by Henry Wolfe
在做時尚雜誌攝影師的幾十年裡,他除了給名牌服裝、化妝品拍攝廣告之外,他還拍攝了許多藝術界、政治界名人的肖像。Richard Avedon 早年以時裝攝影開展事業,當年時裝照中的模特兒都僵硬呆板,Avedon 卻為照片注入情緒和動感,拍攝模特兒在戶外活動、展露笑靨的片刻,掀起攝影界的革命。50年代的名模蘇茜·帕克(Suzy Parker)曾說:「 他是這一行最優秀的,因為他知道模特兒不只是衣架。」
Audrey Hepburn and Mel Ferrer at a small chapel for their son’s, Sean Ferrer, christening, Bürgenstock Switzerland, September 1960
Audrey Hepburn feeding her newborn son, Sean Hepburn Ferrer, with Mr. Famous (Audrey’s Yorkshire terrier) supervising the new mother, 1960
Babe Paley, 1960
Barbra Streisand, 1960
Dick Hickock, murderer, Garden City, Kansas, 1960
John Cage, musician; Merce Cunningham, choreographer; and Robert Rauschenberg, artist, New York, May 2, 1960
Mike Nichols, 1960
W. H. Auden, St. Marks Place, New York, March 3, 1960
Richard Avedon 的攝影逐漸形成鮮明的個人特色。他善於用純白或灰色作為背景,並要求拍攝對象擺姿,並被置於畫面的最前方,這樣的白色背景並不顯得單調乏味,而且能很好將觀眾的注意力吸引到人物身上。
Audrey Hepburn for Harper’s Bazaar, 1961
Bert Stern (from STERN Fotografie Portfolio No. 49) 1961
Caroline Kennedy & John F. Kennedy, Florida, 1961
Caroline Kennedy and her six week old brother, John F. Kennedy Jr. 1961
Richard Avedon 在拍攝時,不喜歡自然光源也從來不使用自然光源,他不喜歡影子,並想法設法地避免閃光燈打亮時在背景板上留下的陰影。表面的美,內在的美和想像的美,他選擇了第一個。
Christina Paolozzi, 1961
Cyd Charisse, 1961
Fabian, singer, New York, February 3, 1961
First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy with son John Fitzgerald Kennedy Jr. 1961
Glenn Gould, pianist, March 7, 1961
Ingrid Bergman, New York, 1961
Richard Avedon 總是在試圖尋找被攝者不常見的一面。他在拍攝溫莎公爵和夫人的時候,就聊到來攝影棚的路上,他坐的計程車撞死了一條狗。溫莎公爵夫婦是非常愛狗的人,一聽非常震驚,難過。這時魔術師按下快門,將他們的表情記錄在照片裡。
Duke and Duchess of Windsor, 1957
這是一張引起軒然大波的照片,而且那條被撞死的狗還是個謊言。不過,Richard Avedon 是猶太人的後裔,溫莎公爵夫婦當時與納粹交往密切。魔術師想藉此表達自己的政治觀點。
John F. Kennedy, Caroline, 1961
John Glenn, Astronaut, Langley Field, Virginia, March 31, 1961
Judy Garland, New York, 1961
Margot McKendry in Christian Dior, Paris, August 1961
Natalie Wood, 1961
Richard Avedon 還喜歡在拍攝中問一些嚴肅的問題來引導模特,比如生與死。在他的照片裡,夢露是失落的,赫本是悲傷的,泰勒的眼神也會動搖。
Noël Coward (adjusting carnation), 1961
Princess Elizabeth Of Yugoslavia – 1961
Rudolf Nureyev in New York, 1961
Sophia Loren, June 3, 1961
Wedding of Mr. and Mrs. H. E. Kennedy, 1961
Vicomtesse Jacqueline de Ribes with Raymundo de Larrain, dress by Dior, New York, May 15, 1961
Audrey Hepburn wearing Yves Saint Laurent, 1962
Coco Chanel & Suzy Parker, 1962
French actress, singer, screenwriter and director. Photo © Richard Avedon, 1962
James Baldwin, New York, December 20, 1962
Jeanne Moreau, 1962
Killer Joe Piro, dance teacher, New York January 3, 1962
Maya Plisetskaya, 1962
Suzy Parker and Mike Nichols, coat by Saint Laurent, The American Hospital, Paris, August 1962
Richard Avedon 成名後,與活躍在紐約的藝術家和知識分子一直保持著密切聯繫。1959年他出版了作品集《觀察》,為之撰文的是杜魯門·卡波特(Truman Garcia Capote);為1964年的《事不關己》配文字的是已成為著名黑人作家的高中同學詹姆斯·鮑德溫(James Baldwin)。
「Ban the Bombers」 protest march, New York, May 8, 1963
Allen Ginsberg and Peter Orlovsky, poets, New York, December 30, 1963
Allen Ginsberg, poet, New York City, December 30-1963
Bob Dylan, Singer, 132nd Street and FDR Drive, Harlem, November 4, 1963
Civil rights demonstration, Atlanta, Georgia' c. 1963
Duke Ellington in Front of the Apollo Theater, 1963
East Louisiana State Mental Hospital #5, Jackson, Louisiana, February 15, 1963
East Louisiana State Mental Hospital #7, Jackson, Louisiana, February 15, 1963
East Louisiana State Mental Hospital #8, Jackson, Louisiana, February 15, 1963
East Louisiana State Mental Hospital #9, Jackson, Louisiana, February 15, 1963
East Louisiana State Mental Hospital #11, Jackson, Louisiana, February 15, 1963
East Louisiana State Mental Hospital #15, Jackson, Louisiana, February 15, 1963
East Louisiana State Mental Hospital #20, Jackson, Louisiana, February 15, 1963
East Louisiana State Mental Hospital #24, Jackson, Louisiana, February 15, 1963
East Louisiana State Mental Hospital #27, Jackson, Louisiana, February 7, 1963
在60年代,Avedon 還是一個活躍的政治攝影師,他去南方拍攝黑人爭取自由權力的運動、在美國各地拍攝反戰活動並且親臨越南拍攝越戰。他在1963年至1985年期間先後拍攝了美國南部的民權運動、反戰運動、越南、美國西部、中國西藏等。其中,他用時6年在美國中西部幾個州拍攝的125張人像,被公認為是20世紀人像攝影的一個裡程碑。
James Baldwin, 1963
Jerome Smith and Isaac Reynolds, civil-rights workers, New York, December 10, 1963
Joe Louis, Fighter, 1963
Kennedy Assassination, Times Square, New York City', November 22-1963
Leander Perez, judge, Plaquemines Parish, New Orleans, Louisiana, February 21, 1963
Lew Alcindor, basketball player, Sixty-first Street and Amsterdam Avenue, New York, May 2, 1963
Malcolm X, black nationalist leader, New York, March 27, 1963
Martin Luther King, Jr. with Father and Son, 1963
Members of the Student Nonviolent Coordinating Committee, March 1963
Mental Institution #19, East Louisiana State Mental Hospital, Jackson, Louisiana, February 15-1963
Patients in a mental institution, February 1963
Santa Monica Beach #4, 1963
Santa Monica Beach #9, September 30, 1963
Santa Monica Beach, September 1963
George Lincoln Rockwell, commander of the American Nazi Party, with members of the American Nazi Party, Arlington, Virginia, October 15, 1963
George Wallace, Governor of Alabama, New York, November 6, 1963
Harper’s Bazaar US c. 1963
Henry Moore, sculptor, Hertfordshire, England, January 26, 1963
The Generals of the Daughters of the American Revolution, DAR Convention, Mayflower Hotel, Washington D.C., October 15-1963
William Casby, born in slavery, Algiers, Louisiana, March 24, 1963
William Casby, one of the last living Americans born into slavery, surrounded by several generations of his family, Algiers, Louisiana, March 24, 1963
Richard Avedon photographing SNCC demonstrators, March 1963
Avedon 是一位徹徹底底的肖像攝影師,這種痴迷開始於他給拉赫瑪尼諾夫拍的照片以及他在美國商船期間每日的重複工作。他的「 眼睛 」在肖像攝影中可以變得非常殘忍,比如其1963年的群體照「 The Generals of the Daughters of the American Revolution 」,又或者他拍攝的平凡人,他的鏡頭毫無諂媚之意,而是訴說現實。
Adam Clayton Powell, Jr., congressman, New York, March 6, 1964
Audrey Hepburn in Givenchy, 1964
◆ 1964年,Avedon 與詹姆斯·鮑德溫(James Baldwin)合作創作了一本獨特的著作,它出版於「 1964民權法案 」正式頒布之際,為那個時代奠定了變革的基調。這本以《Nothing Personal》為名的書籍由 Baldwin 撰文、Avedon 攝影,從民權運動領袖馬丁·路德·金,到美國出生的最後一個黑奴,從美國納粹成員到垮掉派詩人艾倫·金斯堡 …… 它以無法被簡單界定的方式記錄下兩位才華橫溢的創作者眼中最具代表性的「 時代面孔 」。
「 這本書嘗試通過審視當代國民的種種現象,對我們的生活方式作出解釋。」作為美國民權運動的重要文學旗手之一,鮑德溫在談及這本書時說道,「 我們因對自身本性所知甚少而飽受困擾,這種無知比起我們對火星生命的不了解,要廣泛而危險得多。」《Nothing Personal》記錄下了一個複雜而充滿著劇烈衝突和變革的時代。
Dwight David Eisenhower, President of the United States, Palm Springs, California. January 31, 1964
The Reverend Billy Graham, Washington, D.C., February 4, 1964
W.H. Auden, poet, New York, January 27, 1964
Elizabeth Taylor, 1964
Sophia Loren, 1964
Jean Shrimpton and Steve McQueen, November 1964
Rudolph Nureyev, 1964
Salvador Dali & Dovima, 1964
Richard Avedon and writer James Baldwin, 1964
Self portrait with James Baldwin, September 1964
◆ 1965年4月的《Harper's Bazaar》特邀編輯後,Avedon 因與模特合作而遭到猛烈批評,隨後他退出了該雜誌。1966年,他去了紐約《Vogue》在黛安娜·弗裡蘭(Diana Vreeland)手下工作,將他的對於時裝的幻想付諸於行動,在那裡工作了20多年。
Barbra Streinsand, 1965
Jean Shrimpton, Hair by Alexandre, Paris 1965
Bob Dylan in Central Park, New York, February, 1965
Jean Shrimpton, Toga by Forquet, Paris Studio, August 1965
China Machado, evening pajamas by Galitzine, London, January 1965
Christmas Boy, 1965
Paul McCartney, 1965
Donna Mitchell for Harper’s Bazaar, 1965
Hail Ringo! Richard Starkey, January 26, 1965
Steve McQueen, 1965
Barbra Streisand, 1966
Jean Shrimpton wearing Dior fall-winter 1965 in Paris
Cher, Vogue, 1966
Jean Shrimpton, 1965
Donyale Luna, 1966
Madame Grès and Barbra Streisand, 1966
Mia Farrow in the article of Vogue magazine 15th April 1966
Mia Farrow, New York City 1966
Mrs Alfred G Vanderbilt in new Mainbocher evening look, 1966
Sophia Loren, 1966
Veruschka von Lehndorff, 1966
Richard Avedon and Sophia Loren, 1966
Richard Avedon, New York, novembre 1966
Richard Avedon 的時尚攝影片識別度很高,令人過目難忘。這主要表現在兩個方面,一是動態,二是剪影。
Anne Bancroft in her most iconic role, as Mrs. Robinson in The Graduate, 1967
Beatles Portfolio, John Lennon, Ringo Starr, George Harrison, and Paul McCartney, August 11, 1967
Beatles portraits, 1967
George Harrison, 1967
Claude Picasso, New York, November 29, 1967
Paul Simon And Art Garfunkel, Singers, New York, March 1, 1967
Paul McCartney on On August 11th 1967, in London
Penelope Tree, 1967
The Beatles, 1967
Richard Avedon 的全身照很少出現平直的造型,模特擺姿大多是S型,C型,甚至是更複雜的姿勢。非常有張力。值得一提的是他的照片哪怕是只有剪影,也能迅速認出來。記得之前看過一個報導,《UMPJ》雜誌就要求它的連載漫畫,哪怕只有人物剪影,讀者也能迅速辨別出來誰是誰。這樣強烈的衝擊力才能把印象植入觀眾的大腦。
Audrey Hepburn, New York, January 1967
Twiggy earring by Trifari, hair by Ara Gallant, New York, April 3, 1967
Twiggy for Vogue, 1967
Veruschka von Lehndorff, 1967
Veruschka, dress by Bill Blass, New York January 1967
Richard Avedon, 1967 © Gideon Lewin
Alice Cooper, 1968
Aretha Franklin, New York, October 14, 1968
他的所有作品都帶有充滿智慧的好奇心,這在時裝世界裡頗為罕見。他有著探尋精神,作為一位戲劇愛好者,他有時候會一部戲劇看好幾次,直到他從每個層面都了解它。他最喜歡的作者是普魯斯特(Proust)、貝克特(Beckett)和契訶夫(Chekhov)。他對於戈雅(Goya)對細節的專注、蘇丁(Soutine)大地質感的用色和莫迪利亞尼(Modigliani)對體積感的大膽使用十分欣賞。作為巴斯特·基頓(Buster Keaton)和查理·卓別林(Charlie Chaplin)的粉絲,他終其一生都頗為欣賞貝克特。他或許是整個20世紀中唯一一個可以被稱作是知識分子的時裝攝影師,或者,至少飽讀詩書、學富五車。
Benedetta Barzini, Vogue, 1968
Catherine Deneuve for Vogue, December 1968
Jean Shrimpton, Dress by Oscar de aa Renta, Slippers by Capezio, New York, January 9, 1968
Jean Shrimpton, Vogue, 1968
Lauren Hutton, Great Exuma, the Bahamas, October 1968
Ludmila Savelyeva NY 1968
Penelope Tree, 1968
The Doors, New York, April 19 1968
Twiggy, hair by Ara Gallant, Paris January 1968
Andy Warhol and members of The Factory, 1969
Avedon's son and father, 1969
Candy Darling, Andy Warhol and Jay Johnson, 1969
Cher for Vogue, 1969
Florynce Kennedy, civil rights lawyer, New York, August 1, 1969
Janis Joplin, musician, Port Arthur, Texas, August 28, 1969
Janis Joplin, singer, Port Arthur, Texas, August 28, 1969
Raquel Welch, Vogue. Agosto 1969
Renata Adler, writer, New York City, 1969
Tennessee Williams, New York City, 1969
Ingrid Boulting, July 1, 1969
Richard Avedon on location shooting In the American West. 1969
Alexey Brodovitch, Graphic Designer, Le Thor, France February 9, 1970
Allen Ginsberg's Family, Paterson, New Jersey, May 3, 1970
Ingrid Boulting, 1970
Ingrid Boulting, evening dress by Grès, 1970
Jean Shrimpton wearing Cardin, Paris, January 1970
Minneapolis Institute of Arts, MN, 1970
Mouche, sunglasses by Courrèges, Paris, January 1970
Poet Allen Ginsberg and his poet father Louis. 1970
Jean Genet, writer, New York, March 11, 1970
Abito Sarli, 1971
Last Portrait of Stravinsky, 1971
Donna Mitchell, Vogue US, October 1971
An outtake from a photo shoot The Band did with portrait photographer Richard Avedon. The Band would use a photo from this particular session on the back of the 「Cahoots」 album, which was released in 1971
Bette Midler. 1971
Dao Dua, The Coconut Monk, 1971
François Truffaut and Jean-Pierre Leaud, film director and actor, Paris. June 20, 1971
Janet Susan Mary Hoffman, 1971
Jacob Israel Avedon, Sarasota, Florida, May 15, 1971
Napalm Victims, Saigon, 1971
Tina Turner for Vogue in New York on June 13, 1971
Unidentified GI, Fire Base Charlie, Vietnam, 1971
Virna Lisi, Vogue, 1971
Willem de Kooning, 1971
Bianca Jagger, 1972
Catherine Deneuve, 1972
Cher for Vogue Magazine, 1972
Karen Graham, Vogue US, 1972
Marisa Berenson, 1972
Veruschka, wrap by Giorgio di Sant』 Angelo, New York, March 1972
Groucho Marx, 1972
Groucho Marx, Beverly Hills, April 9, 1972
John Ford, film director, Bel Air, California April 11, 1972
Oscar Levant, Pianist, Beverly Hills, California, April 12, 1972
Catherine Deneuve & Chiara Mastroianni, 1973
Electric Light Orchestra, 1973
Lauren Hutton – Le Marais 1973
Liza Minnelli for Blackglama, 1973
Cher with a cat, Vogue US, June 1974
Liza Minnelli for Vogue, 1974
Mick Jagger, February 17, 1974
Truman Capote, 1974
70年代以後,Richard Avedon 走向人文攝影,他拍攝患癌症的父親,去西部拍攝普通的油田工人和卡車司機,這些照片比明星或事件更具震撼力,他的攝影生涯也走上了一個新的高度。
Evelyn Avedon, Wife of Photographer, New York City, July 23, 1975
Igor Strawinsky, 1975
John Martin, New York City, 20 March, 1975
John Szarkowski, Curator, New York July 30, 1975
June Leaf, sculptress, Mabou Mines, Nova Scotia, July 17, 1975
Louise Nevelson, sculptress, New York City, May 13, 1975
Michael and Robert Meeropol, Sons of Ethel and Julius Rosenberg, Assassinated Political Progressives, 1975
Robert Frank, photographer, Mabou Mines, Nova Scotia July 17, 1975
Rose Mary Woods, secretary, Washington, D.C., July 30, 1975
Vladimir Horowitz - 1975
William Burroughs, Writer, New York City, July 9, 1975
Raquel Welch, 1975
Richard Avedon, summer, 1975
◆ 1976年,他為《滾石》雜誌(Rolling Stone)創作了《家庭》(The Family),這是美國200周年選舉期間權力精英的集體照。從1979年到1985年,他在阿蒙卡特美國藝術博物館(Amon Carter Museum of American Art)的一個委員會中廣泛工作,最終在美國西部製作了這部展覽和書。
Jasper Johns, artist, New York, April 29, 1976
Charles Shaffer, attorney, Rockville, Maryland, New York City, July 9, 1976
Jerry Brown, Governor, California, Sacramento, California, March 20, 1976
James Skelly Wright, Circuit Judge, U.S. Court of Appeals for District of Columbia Circuit, Washington, D.C., July 29, 1976
A. M. Rosenthal, Managing Editor, New York Times, New York City, August 20, 1976
Jimmy Carter, Democratic Candidate for the Presidency, Plains, Georgia, March 5, 1976
James Angleton, former Chief of Counterintelligence, CIA, Arlington, Virginia, July 8, 1976
William Paley, Chairman of the Board, CBS, New York City, April 13, 1976
Cyrus Vance, Chairman, Board of Trustees, Rockefeller Foundation, New York City, August 20, 1976
Joint Chiefs of Staff. 1976
J. Paul Austin, Chairman of the Board, Coca-Cola Company, Atlanta, Georgia, August 21, 1976
Katherine Graham, Chairman of the Board, Washington Post Company, Washington, D.C., March 11, 1976
Cesar Chavez, organizer, United Farm Workers, Keene, California, June 27, 1976
Lady Bird Johnson, former first lady, McLean, Virginia, August 24, 1976
I. F. Stone, journalist, Washington, D.C., July 8, 1976
Leonard Woodcock, President, United Automobile Workers, New York City, April 19, 1976
Daniel Boorstin, Librarian of Congress, Washington, D.C., July 29, 1976
Melvin Laird, former Secretary of Defense, Washington, D.C., June 8, 1976
Hyman Rickover, Deputy Commander for Nuclear Propulsion, Naval Sea Systems Command, Washington, D.C., May 6, 1976
Mike Mansfield, U.S. Senator, Montana, Majority Leader of the Senate, Washington, D.C., March 2, 1976
Andrew Young, U.S. Congressman, Georgia, New York City, July 15, 1976
Muddy Waters, New York City, November 22, 1976
Hubert Humphrey, U.S. Senator, Minnesota, Washington, D.C., March 12, 1976
Peter Rozelle, Commissioner, National Football League, New York City, July 7, 1976
Daniel Inouye, U.S. Senator from Hawaii, New York, July 14, 1976
Ralph Nader, consumer advocate, Washington, D.C., June 8, 1976
Herbert J. Miller, Jr., attorney, Washington, D.C., Washington, D.C., August 10, 1976
Richard Kleindienst, former Attorney General of the United States, Washington, D.C., July 29, 1976
Carl Albert, U.S. Congressman, Oklahoma, Speaker of the House of Representatives, Washington, D.C., March 12, 1976
Rose Fitzgerald Kennedy, mother of President John F. Kennedy, Hyannisport, Massachusetts, September 2, 1976
George Wallace, Governor, Alabama, Ocala, Florida, March 5, 1976
Shirley Chisholm, U.S. Congresswoman, New York, New York City, July 12, 1976
Daniel Patrick Moynihan, former U.S. Representative to the United Nations, New York City, July 12, 1976
Thomas (Tip) O'Neill, U.S. Congressman, Massachusetts, Majority Leader of the House of Representatives, Washington, D.C., May 6, 1976
George Meany, President, AFL-CIO, Washington, D.C., March 3, 1976
Thomas Eagleton, U.S. Senator, Missouri, New York City, July 14, 1976
Arnold Miller, President, United Mine Workers, Washington, D.C., May 6, 1976
George McGovern, U.S. Senator, South Dakota, Washington, D.C., March 1, 1976
Thomas Gleason, President, International Longshoreman's Association, New York City, June 29, 1976
Donald Rumsfeld, Secretary of Defense, Washington, D.C., May 7, 1976
Frank Fitzsimmons, President, International Brotherhood of Teamsters, Washington, D.C., May 6, 1976
W. Mark Felt, former Associate Director, FBI, Fairfax, Virginia, July 8, 1976
Bella Abzug, U.S. Congresswoman, New York, New York City, June 19, 1976
Felix Rohatyn, Chairman, Municipal Assistance Corporation, New York City, April 15, 1976
Walter Annenberg, publisher, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, Radnor, Pennsylvania, May 10, 1976
Earl Butz, Secretary of Agriculture, Washington, D.C., July 29, 1976
Eugene McCarthy, former U.S. Senator, Minnesota, Washington, D.C., March 2, 1976
Arthur Burns, Chairman, Board of Governors, Federal Reserve System, Washington, D.C., May 4, 1976
Emanuel Celler, former U.S. Congressman, New York, New York City, August 12, 1976
Edmund Muskie, U.S. Senator, Maine, Washington, D.C., March 1, 1976
Elliot Richardson, Secretary of Commerce, Washington, D.C., May 4, 1976
Barbara Jordan, U.S. Congresswoman from Texas, New York, July 14, 1976
Edward Wilson, Chairman of the Board, J. Walter Thompson, New York City, April 16, 1976
Edward Kennedy, U.S. Senator, Massachusetts, Washington, D.C., July 29, 1976
Richard Avedon, 1976, by George Rose
Diana Vreeland, 1977
Iman, December 19, 1977
Janice Dickinson wearing Issey Miyake, 1977
Yul Brynner as The King in 'The King and I' , May 3, 1977
Brooke Shields Vogue US, June 1978
David Hockney, artist, New York, February 4, 1978
Mikhail Baryshnikov, New York City, 1978
Renata Adler, March 25, 1978
Wilbur Powell, Ennis, Montana, 1978
Richard Avedon by Adrian Panaro, 1978
Richard Avedon by Irving Penn, 1978
◆ 1979年,開始深入美國西部,直到1984年,5年裡拍攝了不下125個普通人。評論家稱之為「 larger than life 」的成果,把繁華美國背後的辛酸與荒蕪公諸於世,成為20世紀人像攝影的裡程碑。
Blue Cloud (Larry) Wright, slaughterhouse worker, Omaha, Nebraska, August 10, 1979
Joe Butler, Reliance, Wyoming, 1979
Jimmy Lopez, Sweetwater, Texas, 1979
Boyd Fortin, Thirteen Year Old Rattlesnake Skinner, Sweetwater, TX, March 10, 1979
Lance Barron and Mel Pyeatt, Reliance, Wyoming, 1979
James Story, Coal Miner Somerset, Colorado, December 18, 1979
Roger Skaarland and Jim Bingham coal miners Reliance Wyoming, 1979
Donald Keen, Reliance, Wyoming, 1979
Harrison Tsosie, Window Rock, Arizona, 1979
Hansel Nicholas Burum, coal miner, Somerset, Colorado, December 17, 1979
Samuel Beckett, Paris, France, April 13, 1979
Emory J. Stovall, Los Alamos, New Mexico, 1979
Francis Bacon, Paris, 1979
Gianni Versace, December 4, 1979
David Johansen, 1979
Meryl Streep, actress, New York City, March 21, 1979
Richard Avedon, Self portrait, 1979
作為上世紀最著名的時尚攝影師,一次又一次開拓著時尚攝影的新領域。用他的視角,為我們詮釋著好萊塢的「 甜姐兒 」們,從奧黛麗·赫本、瑪麗蓮·夢露,到索菲亞·羅蘭,伊莉莎白·泰勒,這些男人眼中的女神,在他的鏡頭下,卻是另一番模樣。
Brooke Shieds for versace, 1980
Bill Curry, drifter, Oklahoma, 1980
Cotton Thompson, maintenance man, Fort Worth, Texas, February 2, 1980
Daniel Salozar, farmer, Chimayó, New Mexico, April 4, 1980
James Kimberlin, Hobbs, New Mexico, 1980
Roberto Lopez, Oil Field Worker, Lyons, Texas, September 28, 1980
Ruby Holden, pawnbroker, Henderson, Nevada, December 17, 1980
Sandra Bennett, Twelve Year Old, Rocky Ford, Colorado, August 23, 1980
Tom Stroud, Oil Field Worker, Velma, Oklahoma, June 12, 1980
Tom Stroud, Oil Field Worker, Velma, Oklahoma, June 12, 1980
◆ 1981年他為俄國女星娜塔莎·金斯基(Nastassja Kinski)拍的蟒蛇纏身人像照,也為她奠定性感女星地位。
Billy Mudd, trucker, Alto, Texas, May 7, 1981
Carol Crittendon, bartender, Butte, Montana, July 1, 1981
Danny Lane and Christine Coil, Calhan, Colorado, 1981
David Beason, shipping clerk. Denver, Colorado, July 25, 1981
Heidi Hamilton and Gordy Bray, Douglas, WY, 1981
Debbie McClendon, Carney, Thermopolis, Wyoming, July 29, 1981
Jessica Lange with her daughter, 1981
John Harrison, lumber salesman, and his daughter Melissa, Lewisville, Texas, November 22, 1981
Nastassja Kinski and the Serpent, Los Angeles, California, 1981
Natasha Kinsky, 1981
Ronald Fischer, Beekeeper, Davis, California, May 9, 1981
Sire Records - David Byrne & Twyla Tharp, 1981
thirteen-year-old, Cheyenne, Wyoming, July 30, 1982
Alfred Lester, Charbouneau, North Dakota, 1982
Isabella Rossellini, Vogue, 1982
James Lykins, Oil field worker, Rawson, North Dakota, August 17th 1982
Jon Wearley, ranch hand, Augusta, Montana, June 27, 1982
l Lloyd Bloom, oil field worker, Williston, North Dakota, August 21, 1982
Milo DeWitt, Payson, Arizona, 1982
Petra Alvarado Factory Worker on her Birthday, El Paso, Texas, April 22, 1982
Rick Davis, drifter, Interstate 94, Buffalo, North Dakota, July 13, 1982
Twyla Tharp 'Nine Sinatra Songs' - 1982
Martha Plimpton. December 16th, 1982
如果用一個詞來形容 Richard Avedon 的風格,那就只有 —— 「 直接 」,近乎殘忍的直接。不管是名人還是普通人,在他的鏡頭前,想剝洋蔥一般一層一層被剝去一切日常生活裡戴著的面具,而呈現在照片裡的通常是讓我們驚訝而不為人知的一面。
Beverly Jane Frazier, Burley, Idaho, 1983
Carl Hoefert, unemployed blackjack dealer, Reno, Nevada, August 30, 1983
Charlene Van Tighem, physical therapist, Augusta, Montana, June 26, 1983
不管 Avedon 有多麼出名,他的作風就有多麼低調。作為一個土生土長的紐約攝影師,一個不折不扣的工作狂,總是把周圍的人折騰得精疲力竭,不管是書刊還是展覽上的編排和呈現方式都要一一過問。這樣一個細緻而近乎偏執的攝影師,儘管時常因為工作滿天飛,但一輩子都定居於曼哈頓。紐約城裡的圖書館、博物館和戲院都是他最愛的消遣場所。
Clarence Lippard, Drifter, Interstate 80, Sparks, Nevada, 29 August 1983
Freida Kleinsasser, Harlowton, Montana, 1983
Harry Glisan, Denver, Colorado, 1983
Jason Jade Hess, Burley, Idaho, 1983
Jay Greene, grain thresher, Burley, Idaho, August 1983
Jeannie Banta, Salmon, Idaho, 1983
Richard Wheatcroft, 1983
Rock Burch, Burley, Idaho, 1983
Roy and Judy Gustavson, Butte, Montana, 1983
Prince for The Rolling Stone Magazine, April 28, 1983
◆ 1985年名模辛迪·克勞馥(Cindy Crawford)初出道時,藉 Richard Avedon 操刀的《Vogue》雜誌封面照,開啟超級名模之路。
Cindy Crawford New York, 1987
Cindy Crawford & Hoyt Richards, 1986
Edward Roop, Coal Miner, Paonia, Colorado, 1985
Richard Avedon with one of the portraits from In The American West, in New York on December 10, 1985
US Vogue September 1985 Richard Avedon
Chet Baker, singer, New York City, January 16, 1986
Brooke Shields - Graphic, Keith Haring, 1986
Christy Turlington, 1986
時尚從來不是 Richard Avedon 從事攝影的興趣所在,他的興趣在人身上,他很重視攝影師與拍攝對象的關係。在他看來,拍攝一張照片,重要的是他對拍攝對象的興趣,他們之間應該是有故事的。
Francesco Clemente, artist, New York, March 31, 1986
Paulina Porizkova & Hoyt Richards, 1986
Richard Avedon 1986
安迪·沃霍爾(Andy Warhol)的幾張經典照片就是由 Richard Avedon 拍攝的,有一張是在 Warhol 遇刺後,Avedon 為他拍攝的上半身特寫,一尺長的傷疤橫亙在照片中央,觸目驚心。
Andy Warhol, artist, New York, August 14, 1969
Andy Warhol, 1987
他從來不試圖掩飾人物的生理缺陷,比如皺紋、眼袋、疤痕等,但就是這種直接反應現實的技法,比完美的製造更能引起觀者的興趣。在他拍攝的數百幅時裝攝影中,都攜帶了這種風格。這種做法沒有給他的拍攝事業帶來麻煩,反而更加有利地起到了促進作用。作為一種樂在其中的謀生手段,Richard Avedon 要在時尚攝影的工作中,努力地去挖掘人物的靈魂特性,使其能在一張平面維度的畫面中呼之欲出,讓人們能夠與靈魂面對面,而非與一件衣服面對面。
Audrey Hepburn for a Revlon advertising campaign in 1987
Christy Turlington for Gianni Versace, Spring Summer 1987
Linda Spierings & Rebecca Ghiglieri, Revlon, 1987
Whitney Houston, 1987
對於肖像人物中靈魂浮出紙面的極強表現力,也許也得歸功於他曾作為一個證件照攝影師的功勞,在拍攝過上千人的肖像之後,Richard Avedon 終於從芸芸眾生的臉孔中看到了背後的故事。
Brooke Shields, January 26, 1988
Brynja for Gianni Versace, 1988
「 時裝攝影是我謀生之道,
我沒有挑剔它,這樣謀生是種樂趣,
只是拍攝我的人像照,有更深刻的樂趣。」
Brandenburg Gate #4, Berlin, Germany, New Year’s Eve, 1989
Brandenburg Gate #6, Berlin, Germany, New Year’s Eve 1989
Brandenburg Gate #17, Berlin, New Year's Eve, 1989
Brandenburg Gate Berlin Germany New Year's Eve 1989
Catherine Deneuve, 1989
Isabelle Adjani, 1989
The Berlin Wall, November 9, 1989
Ray Charles, 1990
Sylvie Guillem, 1991
Tina Turner, 1991
Volpi Ball #6. Venice, Italy. Aug 31, 1991
Volpi Ball, Venice, Italy, August 31, 1991
◆ 1992年,Richard Avedon 成為《紐約客》(The New Yorker)的第一位專職攝影師,他的肖像重新定義了雜誌的美學。在此期間,他的時尚攝影作品幾乎只出現在法國雜誌《Egoïste》上。
Edward Gorey, Cape Cod, MA, 1992
Stephanie Seymour, 1992
Tupac Shakur, 1992
Kate Moss and Aya Thorgren, 1992
Linda Evangelista and Stephanie Seymour, 1992
Richard Avedon, NYC, 1992
自始至終,Richard Avedon 經營著一家成功的商業攝影工作室,人們普遍認為他消除了「 藝術 」和「 商業 」攝影之間的界限。他的品牌定義工作以及與 Calvin Klein、Revlon、Versace 等數十家公司的長期合作,促成了美國歷史上最著名的一些廣告活動。這些活動給了 Richard Avedon 追求重大項目的自由,在這些項目中,他探索了自己的文化、政治和個人激情。他以對美國民權運動、越南戰爭以及他父親雅各布·伊斯萊爾·阿維登(Jacob Israel Avedon)的一系列著名照片而聞名。
Gianni Versace's fall winter 1993
Linda Evangelista, 1993
Stephanie Seymour and Marcus Schenkenberg for Versace, New York, April 19, 1993
Stephanie Seymour for Gianni Versace, 1993
Stephanie Seymour, 1993
Christy Turlington, 1993
Kate Moss for Gianni Versace, 1993
Linda Evangelista for Versace, 1993
Naomi Campbell, Kristen McMenamy, Linda Evangelista, Stephanie Seymour, and Christy Turlington for Versace SS 1993
Nick Moss and Stephanie Seymour, 1993
Irving Penn photographed Avedon for Vogue, 1993
Richard Avedon 的人像攝影作品,幾乎清一色是用大畫幅攝影機拍攝的。這笨重的大傢伙雖然移動和攜帶稍顯繁瑣,但是在拍攝人像時,卻是一件十分強大和細膩的利器。根據膠片的特點以及攝影師的創作需要,Avedon 在拍攝時,經常會把底片拍攝的過曝一些。這樣做的好處是減少不重要的東西對觀眾的幹擾,更好讓被攝者在白色的背景中顯得乾淨利索。在用大畫幅拍攝時,Richard Avedon 還十分喜歡用大光圈淺景深來拍攝,尤其是在不用背景布的情況下,淺景深常用來虛化背景或是被攝者的身體。這種方法和大畫幅的分辨力組合起來,在最大程度上描述了被攝者臉上細節的同時,也將其他分散注意力的多餘東西都隱藏了起來,讓觀眾十分直觀的能看到被攝者最細微的表情和眼神。
Merce Cunningham, choreographer, New York, February 17, 1993
Michelangelo Antonioni with his wife Enrica, Rome 1993
Ricky Jay in New York City, March 4, 1993
Ronald Reagan, Los Angeles, California, April 1, 1993
Roy Lichtenstein, NY, October 8, 1993
Sir Isaiah Berlin, 1993
Tilda Swinton, actor, London, January 20, 1993
「 人像照不是臨摹。
當情緒或事實轉化成照片的一刻,
它就不是事實,而是意見。
照片沒有不準確這回事。
所有照片都是準確的,
沒有一張是(全部的)真相。」
Arnold Schwarzenegger, 1994
Isabelle Adjani, 1994
John Bayley and Iris Murdoch in London, December 1, 1995
Richard Avedon 抱著這個宗旨,將時裝攝影升華成藝術,以人像攝影展現名人和市井小民的神韻,贏得「 世界最著名攝影師 」的美譽。
Juliette Binoche, 1995
Uma Thurman, New York, 1996
Bob Dylan, musician, New York, 1997
在 Avedon 看來,用大畫幅攝影機拍攝人像時,攝影師和被攝者的眼神交流是十分必要的。這比看著取景器,隔著一層距離,按下快門後所傳遞出的表情和神態更有感染力。如此,Avedon 在拍攝時一旦在毛玻璃屏幕上對好焦之後,就不再看取景器,而是握著快門線和被攝者做眼睛和深情上的交流。如此,攝影師和被攝者的交流會更加直接,你對鏡頭前的人的情感的判斷會更加準確。你能親眼看到他們的眼睛,他們也能直接看到你的眼睛,少了一層隔膜,表達更趨於完美。
Judi Dench, 1997
Patricia Arquette, New York, June 18, 1997
Pirelli calendar, Ines Sastre for April 1997
Arundhati Roy, novelist, New York, May 12, 1998
Patti Smith, 1998
John Galliano, December 1999
Monica Bellucci for Pirelli Calendar, New York, 1997
Cate Blanchett and Emily Mortimer for the film Elizabeth December 1997
「 如果一整天都沒做些跟拍照有關的事,
就像忽視了我存在的真諦,
彷佛忘了醒來一樣。」
Bridget Hall, 1994
Linda Evangelista, Vogue Germany Feb, 1994
Versace Fall-Wint 1994
Wilde Klassik - Vogue Germany, 1994
Cindy Crawford, Versace Fall Wint 1994
Description. Nadja Auermann, 1994
Richard Avedon by John Loengard, 1994
Christy Turlington, Pirelli Calendar, 1995
Kristen McMenamy & Nadja Auermann, for the Versace Ad Campaign Spring 1995
Kristen McMenamy for Versace Spring 1995
Kara Young and Reinaldo for Gianni Versace, 1995
Christina Kruse and Trish Goff, New York, December 20th, 1995
在攝影場景中加入電影戲劇般的敘事風格,把穿的極為優雅高貴的貴婦扔到一群粗壯的街頭馬戲團中,或者是一身華麗紅衣的灰姑娘,拿著拖把在沼澤地般汙穢的房間裡做清潔,此外還有 Richard Avedon 鍾愛的題材「 死亡 」。穿著金燦燦猶如雕塑品的女模特和骷髏一起合影留念,陽光燦爛的女孩趴在灰色的墓碑群中衝著你快樂地大笑 …… 所以,Avedon 不僅是一名人像攝影師,還是一名情感記錄者和劇情製作者。
Nadja Auermann and Unknown Person, Bustier and Skirt by Jean-Paul Gaultier, Suit by Romeo Gigli, Montauk, New York, August 1995
在他的鏡頭前,人被剝去了一切日常生活裡戴著的面具,以真面目示人,而且那個真面目通常是讓我們感到驚訝。藝術界、政治界名人等諸多名流在他的鏡頭下展現出了不為人知的另一面;而流浪漢、煤礦工人等所謂的社會底層勞苦人民,也曾被這位大師記錄下了關於生存的殘忍事實。他通過鏡頭,向人們傳達了「 即使是一張簡單的照片,也可以顯得頗具力量 」的道理。
Nadja Auermann and Unknown Person, Bustier and Skirt by Jean-Paul Gaultier, Suit by Romeo Gigli, Montauk, New York, August 1995
《紐約時報》曾評價他的照片,「 定義了美國在過去近半個世紀來,關於風格、美與文化的標準。」作為二戰之後最為重要的攝影大師之一,Richard Avedon 不僅僅是用獨特的電影敘事般的視角指明了時裝攝影該走向的新的方向,在人物攝影這一方面,他的風格同樣獨樹一幟。
Nadja Auermann, Pirelli Calendar 1995
Nadja Auermann, Seasons - Pirelli Calendar, 1995
Nadja Auermann, Versace Home Signature 1995
Naomi Campbell, 1995
Prince, 1995
Trish Goff, Shalom Harlow and Amber Valletta for the Versace fall-winter 1995 campaign
「 我討厭相機。
他們總是幹涉,他們總是礙手礙腳。
我希望我能用我的眼睛獨自工作。」
Savion Glover, dancer, New York, 1995
Stephanie Seymour, Paris, 1995
Versace Atelier Ad Campaign SS 1995
Richard Avedon, Milan 1995 - Photograph by Roxanne Lowit
《紐約客》的總編 David Remnick 說:「 在60年內無休止的工作中,Richard Avedon 用上如蜂鳥一般的精力,為我們的時代提供最深刻和最喜樂的影像。」此外,與 Richard Avedon 合作多年的時裝設計師多娜泰拉· 範思哲(Donatella Versace)則說:「 Richard Avedon 是一位真正的攝影大師,也是將攝影變成藝術的大師之一,他帶給Versace的靈感至今影響著我們。」即便在他去世多年後,他的作品在時尚界依然佔據著很高的藝術和商業地位,讓人每每談起都會豎起大拇指。
Amber Valletta for the Versace advert campaign, 1996
Kate Moss For Versace Campaign, Fall 1996
Kate Moss, April 18, 1996
Navia Nguyen in the Pirelli Calendar, 1996
Stella Tennant for Gianni Versace. Vogue Italia March 1996
Erin O』Connor, 1997
Karen Elson, for Versace, 1997
Kate Moss, Calvin Klein, 1997
Ling Tan in the Pirelli Calendar, 1997
Carmen Kass and Audrey Marnay, Dresses by Hussein Chalayan, 1998
Jade Parfitt and Esther De Jong wearing John Galliano. 1998
Yohji Yamamoto - hat and shirt, London, March 26, 1998
Trish Goff – Romeo Gigli ADS 1998
RICHARD AVEDON STUDIO 1998
◆ 1999年,Richard Avedon 出版了攝影集《60年代》,書的封面照片是 Avedon 為約翰·列儂(John Lennon)拍攝的一張肖像,因為安迪·沃霍的後期加工而變得非常著名,濃烈的黃紫紅著色,只留下列儂頭部和標誌性眼鏡的輪廓線。
Mike Campbell & Gisele Bundchen, 1999
RZA, producer, New York, January 22, 1999
Björk, 2000
Małgosia Bela and Gisele Bündchen, Dresses by Dior, New York, March 13, 2000
Malgosia Bela, 2000
Eric van Nostrand for Dior Homme FW 2001
Kate Moss by Bert Stern for Vogue Paris, August 2001
Linda Evagelista, 2001
在這本書中,你不會看到熱鬧混亂的60年代紐約文藝圈景象。藝術家、搖滾明星、太空人、政客、嬉皮士、和平主義者出現在空曠的素色背景前,顯得靜謐、清晰而真實,令人對那些逝去的年代和人唏噓感懷。他的照片總有種憂鬱色彩,你可以看到鮑勃·迪倫(Bob Dylan)、弗蘭克·扎帕(Frank Vincent Zappa)等人「 之前 」和「 之後 」的照片,看到滄桑在他們臉上的變化。
Doon Arbus. New York 2002
Lee Friedlander, photographer, New City, New York, May 24, 2002
Polly Mellen, 2002
Richard Avedon, New City, New York, 2002
Self-portrait with Twyla, 2003
◆ 2004年10月1日,81歲的 Richard Avedon 在德克薩斯州為《紐約客》拍照時,因腦溢血病發去世,真正的嘔心瀝血,而他也正是《紐約客》首位全職攝影師,已經幹了12年。而他所留下的作品,正如他自己說的一樣:
「 全世界的名人我好像都拍過了。
但是,我更希望能拍一些真正有作為的人,
而不光是明星。」
Susan Sontag, 2000
Cat Power, musician, New York, July 28, 2003
Edward Albee in New York City, September 29, 2003
Hilary Clinton,Senator, New York, September 13, 2003
Kevin Kline as Falstaff in Henry IV, New York 2003
他對時裝攝影的工藝和態度有著更為深遠的影響。有過兩段婚姻的 Richard Avedon 對地位曾經被認為和室內設計師一樣,因為該領域中同性戀比異性戀要多,他對時裝攝影師這一職業的地位起到了重要的改善作用。他鏡頭下的女孩子,包括 Twiggy、Jean Shrimpton、Ingrid Boulting、Verushka 和 Kate Moss 都十分享受這一點,這吸引了新一批的男性將時裝攝影作為他們的職業。例如年輕的英國人 Donovan 和 Bailey。 喜歡把女性置於無可能的場景中的 Norman Parkinson 和 Guy Bourdin,締造超級女性形象的Helmut Newton,以及 Bruce Weber、Steven Meisel 和 Tim Walker 都有忘記過去,並開創自己世界的勇氣。他們都是 Richard Avedon 的傳人。
Liev Schreiber as Henry V, 2003
Mitsuko Uchida, pianist, New York, 2003
Twyla Tharp, 2003
Richard Avedon with Camera by Eye magazine
Avedon 一直都是一位嚴厲的自我批判家,儘管這一點在拍攝期間被特定的創意距離感所隱藏了起來。令人出乎意料的是,他從未對如今被視為二十世紀最最偉大的作品之一 ——在巴黎的 Cirque d』 Hiver 中 Dovima 身穿 Yves Saint Laurent 為 Christian Dior 設計的裙子站在大象中間——感到滿意。她纖細優雅和其背後的巨型動物產生了巨大的反差,但 Avedon 對於最終圖像並不感到滿意。他在採訪中告訴採訪者這「 總是我的一個敗筆。」他覺得裙子的系帶應該往左飄,而非在中間。或許這樣就能正好的與大象腿的動態產生呼應。撇開他的擔憂,絕大多數評論人都會同意,如同 Richard Avedon 諸多作品一般,這是20世紀最偉大的攝影作品之一。
Björk, musician, New York, June 2, 2004
Barack Obama, Democratic National Convention, Boston, Massachusetts, July 28, 2004.
Doris (Granny D) Haddock, 94, US Senate candidate, from Democracy 2004
| 推薦閱讀 |
素材圖片來自網絡
版權歸原作者所有
鳥人與魚整理編輯