Hi，我叫小皮
他叫朱利安，我們是:_____
寫在前面
// 作者簡介
朱利安（Julien Boulard），法國阿爾薩斯人，在中國生活了15年+的葡萄酒講師，在南寧和廣州創辦朱利安葡萄酒學堂，目前已經通過了Master of Wine葡萄酒大師的考試，正在準備最後的論文。為人剛正不阿，嫉惡如仇，對專業一絲不苟，對朋友坦誠相待，於是也沒有多少個朋友。
//清單的可信度
我相信朱利安的這個最佳清單，因為：
1. 朱利安會品酒，他味覺靈敏、經驗豐富，並且最重要的：邏輯強。在葡萄酒大師的訓練和mock考試中，他總是我們全班人裡最厲害的，這也是為什麼他能通過MW考試的原因，我強烈建議大家閱讀他的英文酒評，尤其要學習WSET4級或者MW的同學。
2. 沒有人比朱利安喝過更多酒莊和款數的中國葡萄酒，因此他的清單是有著足夠的樣品數量做支撐的；
3. 沒有任何酒莊為這個清單付任何的廣告費用，是公正的；
4. 這個清單裡的葡萄酒是經過了2場公開的品鑑會檢驗的，是經得起大眾考驗的；
朱利安2018年度中國最佳葡萄酒
THE BEST CHINESE WINES
「在過去的一年裡，我參觀了 90 多家中國酒莊，品嘗了大約 600 款中國葡萄酒（還不包括在葡萄酒比賽和酒會期間品嘗的）。而這些葡萄酒裡大約有一半被我品嘗了兩次：第一次是在酒莊；第二次是在我們南寧辦公室以盲品的方式品評，以便確認第一次的品鑑結果。
唐嵩（左）和朱利安（右）
之前我們組織過關於中國葡萄酒的培訓。儘管當時我們努力從幾家頗受歡迎的酒莊中選取葡萄酒，但是許多廣州和南寧的學員們對它們的平均質量有些失望。這一次，我決定不再根據它們的「出身」來選酒，而是完全主觀地篩選出我心目中的中國最好葡萄酒。雖然如此，這一次的品鑑還是覆蓋了許多產區。
編者按：朱利安老師和唐嵩（唐長老）在隨後的廣州和南寧的2場大師班上與數十位葡萄酒專業人士和發燒友一同品鑑了這些葡萄酒，反響熱烈，也是我轉載本文的信心來源之一。
經過兩場品鑑的再次確認，2018年的年度最佳葡萄酒清單如下：
// 1 //
Traditional Method Sparkling Wine 2006
長城桑乾酒莊，傳統法起泡酒 2006
朱利安評分：88分
這款由桑乾酒莊釀製而成的氣泡酒是多麼令人驚喜啊！這款酒原計劃在 2008 年奧運會期間銷售，但長城似乎高估了銷量，導致大量的葡萄酒意外經歷了 10 年的酵母自溶才吐泥上市！最初的管理失誤卻造就了一款非常棒的氣泡酒。香氣好像一片黃油吐司灑上了梨蜜餞和杏子幹。入口後，油潤的質地和柔和的氣泡完美融合在一起，形成了相當肥美的口感。回味持久並帶有烤杏仁和一絲檸檬皮般的苦味。大約每升 12 克的糖分被葡萄酒吸收得差不多了。這是我到目前為止喝過最好的中國氣泡酒！
What a stunning surprise this intense sparkling wine made from Chateau SunGod is! Made solely from Chardonnay grapes using the traditional method, it was originally meant to be sold during the 2008 Olympic Games, but it seems that Great Wall overestimated the sales, resulting in numerous bottles accidently lying down ten years on their lees prior to disgorgement! What was initially a management failure, eventually turned into an utterly compelling bubbly, endowed with beguiling aromas of candied pears and dry apricots spread over a piece of buttered toast. The vinous texture and the cajoling mousse merge together into a voluptuous mouthfeel that further expands towards a lingering finish, accented with notes of grilled almonds and a delicate lemon-skin bitterness. About 12 grams per litre dosage perfectly resorbed by now. The best sparkling wine I』ve tasted in China so far!
// 2 //
Organic White Wine 2015
波龍堡，有機幹白 2015
朱利安評分：88分
波龍堡的紅酒經常令我找不著北，但我一直很喜歡他們的白葡萄酒！這款有機乾白葡萄酒由霞多麗（Chardonnay）、小忙桑（Petit Manseng）、維歐尼（Viognier）和胡珊（Roussanne）四種葡萄在法國橡木桶中發酵，並經過 8 個月的陳釀。這是一款極具個性的葡萄酒，與中國其它幹白形成了鮮明的對比。香氣呈現出相當奇妙的杏仁膏、杏幹、烤蘋果/梨和大黃的香味。口感乾爽。活潑的酸度貌似被奶油般的質感包囊起來。綿長的回味以香草和桃子香味主導，而略苦的後味給口感另加一點層次感。這是一款優質的羅訥風格白葡萄酒，與油性白肉搭配應該很搭！
I』ve been struggling with Bolongbao’s red wines, but I really love their whites! This Organic White Wine 2015 is a blend of Chardonnay, Petit Manseng, Viognier and Roussanne, fermented in French oak, followed by eight months ageing. It is a very characterful wine significantly contrasting with the other white wines commonly found in China, exhibiting intriguing notes of marzipan, baked apples / pears, dry apricot and rhubarb. The palate is dry with a lively acidity surrounded by a creamy texture flowing smoothly towards a relatively persistent, vanilla / peach dominated finish and backed by a slightly bitter edge spicing up the whole. This is a good quality Rhône-style white wine which should go perfectly with oily white meat dishes.
// 3 //
Jiabeilan Baby Feet Pinot Noir 2015
賀蘭晴雪，加貝蘭小腳丫黑比諾 2015
朱利安評分：88分
當一個人品嘗同一款葡萄酒不止一次並且發現用於描述感覺的形容詞看起來像「複製粘貼」時，這很能令人感到安慰！除了取悅自我之外，作為飲酒者，這種現象就能證明每一瓶酒之間的穩定性，而在中國，「瓶差」有時就像在玩彩票似的。那麼，這些形容詞究竟是什麼？首先，一個非常淺的寶石紅色——一個像黑比諾的黑比諾！然後，一些非常純淨的花香（牡丹或玫瑰花瓣）和充滿活力的紅色漿果（覆盆子、紅醋慄、蔓越莓……）撲鼻而來。
第一次品，我聞到了清淡的香草氣息（葡萄酒在 30％ 的新法國橡木桶中陳釀了 12 個月）但在我第二次品嘗時，這個味道似乎已融合得差不多，反更凸顯了類似於碎石頭的「礦物」味。質地很細膩，單寧柔和精緻。每次品鑑，我的品酒筆記都會特別強調這款酒的「可飲性」——葡萄酒非常順口，不帶任何沉重感，無論是在身體上還是在心理上。這個黑比諾來自於玉泉營地區一個有著 17 年歷史的葡萄園，是我迄今為止在中國喝到最好的黑皮諾。很贊！
It’s interesting (and comforting) to compare tasting notes when one tastes the same wine more than once and finds out that the adjectives used to describe the sensations look like a copy-and-paste! Besides pleasing one’s ego, it also reassures me, as a drinker, about the consistency between the bottles, something which has been a kind of a lottery so far. So, what were those descriptors? First, a very pale ruby red colour - a Pinot Noir actually looking like one! Then, a pristine floral nose reminiscent of peony or rose petals, infusing with fresh and vibrant red berries (raspberry, red currant, cranberry…). I had some very light vanilla the first time (the wine was aged in 30% new French oak barrels for twelve months) but it seems to have somehow integrated by the second time I tasted it, making way for a more 「mineral」 expression redolent of crumbled stones. The texture is very delicate with light, refined tannins. Each time I tasted this wine, I insisted on the 「drinkability」 of it – a sensation that the wine flows seamlessly down the throat without any heaviness, may it be physical, or psychological. This Pinot Noir, hailing from a seventeen years old vineyard in the Yuquanying area, is the best Pinot Noir I』ve had in China so far. Good job!
// 4 //
Domaine Franco-Chinois
Reserve Marselan 2014
中法莊園，珍藏馬瑟蘭 2014
朱利安評分：90
雖然我一直對中國的馬瑟蘭葡萄滿懷信心，但我從沒想過它竟然能釀出這麼高品質的葡萄酒！這款深紫紅色葡萄酒爆發出來的黑李子、黑莓、黑醋慄和摩卡香氣令人驚嘆！完美平衡的口感和鋪滿口腔、緊實卻成熟的單寧引人入勝。它現在還是有點年輕——需要至少 3 年的窖藏時間才能將各種成分（尤其是橡木）融合成一個更和諧的整體。在那之後，它應該還會帶來至少五、六年的持續愉悅感。毫無疑問，這是我今年喝過最好的馬瑟蘭葡萄酒！
Although I』ve always been convinced by the potential of Marselan to produce wines of sound quality in China, I』ve never imagined that it could actually reach such heights! I』ve been very impressed by the lashings of dark plums, blackberry, cassis and mocha exuding from this deep purple wine. The perfectly-balanced mouthfeel and the mouth-coating, dense though ripe tannins are just fascinating. It is a bit young now, and it will require at least three years cellaring for the various components (especially the oak) to fuse into a cohesive whole. After that, it should deliver continuous pleasure for at least another five or six years. Without doubt the best Marselan I』ve tasted this year!
// 5 //
Emma’s Reserve 2014
銀色高地，艾瑪珍藏 2014
朱利安評分：90
這一旗艦酒款用酒莊品質最好的赤霞珠釀造而成，經過了全新橡木桶 24 個月的陳釀，並且只灌裝在 magnum 瓶（1.5 升瓶）中。2014 年份的艾瑪私人珍藏只生產了約 2000 瓶。酒的外觀稍顯渾濁，散發出大量來自橡木的香草豆的氣味，並伴有春天的花朵、成熟李子和草莓氣息。口腔可以感覺到堅實的結構感，單寧高而成熟，被天鵝絨和奶油般的質感包圍。餘味很長，留下明顯的烘烤木頭的餘韻。這是一款非常強壯的葡萄酒，需要至少 2 到 3 年的窖藏才能讓橡木的氣味更好地結合。
The flagship wine of Silver Heights is a very ambitious nectar made from the best Cabernet Sauvignon of the property, aged 24 months in 100% new oak barrels and bottled only in magnums (about 2000 produced in 2014). Slightly turbid in appearance, it reveals copious notes of oak-derived vanilla bean accompanied by scents of spring flowers, ripe plum and strawberry fruit. The palate is firmly structured with high though ripe tannins coated by a velvety, creamy texture. The finish is very long, leaving a pronounced caramelized-wood aftertaste. This is a very intense wine which will need at least two or three years cellaring for the oak to integrate.
// 6 //
Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
迦南酒業，珍藏赤霞珠 2014
朱利安評分：92分
Canaan Winery is the most meticulous winery I』ve visited in China, thoroughly experimenting with clones and rootstocks in the vineyard (they have planted no less than nine different Cabernet Sauvignon clones!), fine-tuning their wines in dozens of three to ten tons-capacity small vats, and managing their state-of-the-art winemaking facilities with real mastery! These conditions permitted the production of this stunning Cabernet Sauvignon which displays all the features one would expect from this grape variety: high-tone notes of cassis, blackberry and graphite, accompanied by pronounced baking spices. Like the Syrah they produced, the oak is a bit overpowering now, but the full-bodied mouthfeel, the tense tannins and the remarkable youthfulness of its flavours indicate that it should develop further, hopefully giving time to the barrels effluvium to mitigate. Forget it until 2019 or 2020, and enjoy it between then and 2025.
迦南酒業是我到目前為止參觀過管理最精心的中國酒莊——他們在葡萄園中進行了各種關於克隆和砧木的研究（光是赤霞珠，他們種植了九個不同品系！），葡萄酒在數十個 3 到 10 噸小容量發酵罐中精釀，而專業的團隊把最先進的釀酒設施和管理體系應用得熟能生巧！正是這些條件才使得這款非常標準的赤霞珠得以誕生——奔放的黑醋慄、黑莓和石墨香氣伴隨著濃鬱的烘焙香料。和同年份的西拉一樣，橡木味有點濃烈，但它肥碩的口感、緊湊的單寧和非常新鮮的果香表明這款酒會進一步發展，而時間應該會磨平橡木桶的稜角。把它存放到 2019 年或 2020 年吧，然後可以享受它到 2025 年！
// 7 //
Crazy Fang 2011
迦南美地，魔方 2011
朱利安評分：91分
魔方是迦南美地頂尖酒款，僅在特好的年份生產（平均 1000 來瓶），並以 100% 的赤霞珠（Cabernet Sauvignon）釀造而成。值得一提的是，2011 年是酒莊的第一個年份！這幾年來，在著名葡萄酒顧問周淑珍女士的幫助下，迦南美地的葡萄酒質量一直在提高。在第一個年份，迦南美地已經成功地釀製出了一款令人驚嘆的葡萄酒，充滿了黑莓、黑李子、枯花、紅茶葉等多層香氣，並以橡木焦糖和黑巧克力為支撐。在口感方面，這是一款非常豐滿的葡萄酒，酒精感厚實，單寧緊密而完美地融合在肥美的酒體當中。回味持久而清新，略帶花香。很棒!
Tasted at the winery, Crazy Fang is the top wine of Kanaan, only produced in exceptional years in minute quantities (1,000 bottles on average) and made exclusively of Cabernet Sauvignon. It is worth mentioning that 2011 is the first vintage of the winery, and the wines』 quality has been improving steadily, under the supervision of renowned wine consultant Zhou Shuzhen. For its first vintage, Kanaan already managed to produce a stunning wine abound with multi-layered aromas of blackberry, black plum, decayed flowers, dried black tea leaves, backed by oak-derived caramel and black chocolate. In the mouth, this is an opulent wine with a generous alcohol mingled with compact, yet perfectly integrated tannins. The savoury, slightly floral flavours steadily builds towards a long and fresh finish. Kudos!
// 8 //
XiaoLing 2015
霄嶺 2015
朱利安評分：91
霄嶺證明了中國可以釀造出充滿活力且非常精緻的葡萄酒！這款酒經過了 20 個月的新橡木桶熟化，而看過我的品酒筆記的人都知道，我絕非是一個「橡木湯」愛好者。但在這款酒中，橡木更是體現了其香料的一面——以鹹鮮味道為主的風味交織著複雜的香草和肉豆蔻香氣，並點綴著一抹明亮的黑櫻桃味。讓人意外的是，除了一絲絲若隱若現的甘草味之外，你完全找不到中國赤霞珠常有的青澀味。這款酒的風味在口中達到高潮，呈現出絲綢般順滑的單寧，伴隨著令人口舌生津的清爽酸度，各種味道在中等長度、非常清新的餘味中一一展現。如果你尋找的是一款肥美、擁有飽滿酒體的紅葡萄酒，那這款酒就不是你的菜。但如果你像我一樣追求精美、和諧、易飲性等，那麼這款酒絕對會讓你「味之一震」。3700 瓶產量。
Xiao Ling is the proof that China can give birth to utterly refined wines full of vibrancy! Sure, the wine is marked by the twenty months ageing in new French oak it went through, and those who have read my other notes know that I’m definitely not an amateur of wood-infused soup. But here you』ll get more of the spicy aspect of it, with vanilla and nutmeg notes intertwining gracefully with a bright black cherry note over a savoury core. Surprisingly, besides a hint of liquorice, there is no sign of greenness as you』d expect from a Cabernet Sauvignon-based Chinese wine (I say 「based」, because after touring a few plots, I』ve seen quite a lot of vines which leaves didn’t look as Cabernet Sauvignon’s to me…) The wine reaches its climax in the mouth, offering perfectly integrated, silky-textured tannins, accompanied by a mouth-watering, refreshing acidity, unfurling nonchalantly towards a medium-length, pristine finish. If you’re looking for an opulent, full-bodied red wine, this might not be the right bottle for you. But if you’re looking for delicacy, harmony, 「drinkability」… as I do, this wine should definitely ravish your taste buds! Only 3700 bottles produced.
// 9 //
Aoyun 2014
敖雲 2014
朱利安評分：88分
第一次品嘗敖雲 2014 是在雲南，隨後在盲品的條件下又品嘗了一次。這款顏色深重的葡萄酒散發出強烈而濃鬱的成熟黑莓的氣味，混合著一些溼樹葉和類似甘草的藥味，同時伴隨著明顯的橡木味道，並帶有烘烤木材和巧克力風味。還有一絲氣味讓人聯想到冷卻的菸頭。我喜歡它柔和圓潤的酒體和細膩的單寧相融合所展現出的令人愉悅的質感。這款酒的酒精度頗高（15%），餘味帶有濃鬱而集中的煙燻風味。讓它在空氣中呼吸一個小時以後，藥草的氣味逐漸消失，取而代之的是誘人的黑色水果的香氣。儘管有些人認為 2014 年份比 2015 年份要好，但是我覺得 2015 年份的敖雲更加平衡和優雅。無論如何，從質量上來說，2014 年份相比 2013 年份（敖雲的第一個年份）有了長足的進步，這證明酒莊確實在積極進取，不斷尋求自我突破。
Tasted once in Yunnan and a second time under blind conditions, each time the dark-coloured 2014 Aoyun opened to an intense and very concentrated nose of ripe blackberry mingled with some wet leaves and liquorice-like medicinal notes. These are accompanied by an ostentatious oak effluvium allusive of charred wood and chocolate, underlain by a more savoury edge evoking cold tobacco. I like the mellow, cushiony consistency of the palate, with its soft tannins melding seamlessly amid a voluptuous texture. The alcohol is quite high (15%) and the finish leaves a concentrated, smoky aftertaste. Give this wine some time to breath: the medicinal notes tend to fade after an hour or so, giving way to the more attractive dark fruit aromas! Some people prefer the 2014 over the 2015, but I feel the latter is better balanced and poised. Still, qualitatively speaking, this 2014 is already an obvious step forward compared to the 2013, Aoyun’s first vintage, confirming that the winery has indeed embarked on a quest to constant self-improvement.
// 9 //
Late Harvest Welschriesling 2016
臺依湖，晚收貴人香 2016
朱利安評分：91分
臺依湖的晚收貴人香有望成為這場品鑑會的黑馬，所以我很期待再跟大家一起品嘗它，看看它的表現有沒有我當時在酒莊喝得那麼精彩。這款酒由 80% 的貴人香（Welschriesling）和 20% 的小芒森（Petit Manseng）釀造，先後分成三次採收。90 克每升的殘糖讓它既有甜美的風味，又不至於像糖漿一樣甜膩。儘管這是一款年輕的酒，但是顏色很深。酒標標註的是「晚收」，但是我確定地感受到了來自貴腐菌的辛香料味，交織著檸檬蜜餞、苦橙、成熟的杏子和焦糖蘋果的香氣。口感相當肥美，但不甜膩，回味也適中，但是收結非常乾淨，充滿了新鮮的果香。順便提一下，他們還有一款小芒森甜白也非常值得一試。
Taila’s Late Harvest might well be one of the dark horses of this tasting, and it will be the opportunity for me to confirm (or not) the enthusiasm I felt when I tasted this wine at the winery. Made from 80% Welschriesling and 20% Petit Manseng harvested in three distinctive tries, this wine boasts 90 g/l of residual sugars, making it sweet, yet not syrupy. The colour is quite deep despite its young age, and although it is sold as a late harvest, I definitely get pungent spices allusive of botrytis, interweaving with a bouquet of candied lemon, bitter orange, ripe apricot and caramelized apples. The mouthfeel is quite opulent, though not cloying as mentioned above, and finishes on a moderately long but very clean and fresh finish. They also produce a straight Petit Manseng worth trying!
// 10 //
Gold Label Icewine 2013
蔡龍麟，金鼎 2013
朱利安評分：92
桓仁產區採收葡萄的方式與世界其它冰酒產區有所不同。這裡通常採用的方法是在 10 月底或 11 月初時將剪下的葡萄果串掛在葡萄架上，直到溫度足夠低時，葡萄中的水分凍結才開始收起來去釀酒。用這種方法釀造的蔡龍麟金鼎 2013 年份冰酒具有強勁的酒體和卓越的集中度。這款金色的佳釀採用的葡萄品種是威代爾，散發出迷人的橘子蜜餞、幹杏脯和黃香李的氣味。高達 198 克每升的糖度讓酒表現出甘美、厚重的質地，而同時擁有明快的、令人振奮的酸度，從而獲得了完美的平衡。這種華麗的口感被蜂蜜、杏子蜜餞和芒果的味道進一步渲染，並在長久的回味中不斷加強。這款令人印象深刻的瓊漿至少在未來的十年中依然能夠保持這種霸氣的狀態。
Because you need to bury the vines of the Liaoning province to avoid them to be killed by the extreme cold, the harvest for making icewine in the Huanren region differs significantly from that of the other producing regions. One of the methods used is to harvest the bunches at the end of October or beginning of November and then to leave them hanging on the trellis wires until temperatures are cold enough to freeze part of the berries』 water. This method, used to make this Cailonglin Gold Label 2013, produced a wine of outstanding intensity and concentration! This gold-coloured elixir, made from the Vidal grape, exhales compelling notes of candied orange, dry apricot and Mirabelle plum. With 198 grams of residual sugars per litre, this wine unsurprisingly reveals a very luscious, thick texture, perfectly counterbalanced by a bright, electrifying acidity. This voluptuous mouthfeel is further stained with lashings of honey, candied apricot and mango, seemingly gaining power along an everlasting finish. This impressive 『sticky』 should keep perfectly well for a decade or more!
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