吸血鬼，狼人，南瓜，糖果·····如今的萬聖節已經成為大家能夠盡情享受「奇裝異服」的節日，而你是否會好奇，數千年之前這一天人們的慶祝裝扮呢？
為慶祝萬聖節的來臨，小孩會裝扮成各種可愛的鬼怪向逐家逐戶地敲門，要求獲得糖果，否則就會搗蛋。而同時傳說這一晚，各種鬼怪也會裝扮成小孩混入群眾之中一起慶祝萬聖節的來臨，而人類為了讓鬼怪更融洽才裝扮成各種鬼怪。
上圖為1900年代初的一張黑白照片，一位美國農村婦女臉上戴著邪惡的白色面具。另一張1930年的照片上，一個高個子站在一塊看起來像是由白色床單和黑色膠帶緊緊纏繞的區域裡。而1938年的圖像照片則顯示了三個人戴著令人毛骨悚然的骷髏面具開車去參加聚會。
20世紀上半葉的萬聖節服裝令人恐懼。根據 Lesley Bannatyne（一位撰寫了大量有關萬聖節歷史的文章的作者）的說法，受萬聖節的異教和基督教根源影響，人們通常將這個夜晚視為驅除邪惡或是與死者交流的機會，於是常常選擇更病態和古板的服裝，而不是當今受流行文化影響的服飾。
Halloween costumes from the first half of the 20th century were terrifying. Drawing on the holiday's pagan and Christian roots -- as a night to ward off evil spirits or reconcile with death, respectively -- people often opted for more morbid, serious costumes than the pop culture-inspired ones of today, according to Lesley Bannatyne, an author who has written extensively about the history of Halloween.
Bannatyne在電話採訪中說：「在10月31日演變成我們所知的友好的家庭聚會之前，人們認為這一天與鬼魂和迷信息息相關。它被視為'不正常的一天'，在這一天，你可以離經叛道。「穿著可怕的服裝——當然不是今天的恐怖風格，而是單純恐怖的服裝——是節日的重要組成部分。」
"Before it evolved into the family-friendly, party occasion we know it as, October 31 was deeply linked to ghosts and superstitions," she said in a phone interview. "It was seen as a day 'outside of normal,' when you act outside of society's norms. "Wearing ghoulish costumes -- not horror-inspired like today's, but plain frightful -- was an essential part of it."
萬聖節服裝的起源可以追溯到2000年前。歷史學家認為，Samhain的凱爾特異教節日是萬聖節的前身，它標誌著標誌著夏天的結束和不列顛諸島「較黑暗」的半年的開始。
The genesis of Halloween costumes may date back over 2,000 years. Historians consider the Celtic pagan festival of Samhain, which marked summer's end and the beginning of the year's "darker" half in the British Isles, to be the holiday's precursor.
Photo taken in 1905 of a person wearing a ghost costume in a rural schoolhouse.
1905年在農村校舍裡扮鬼的人的照片。
人們認為，在節日期間，神明的世界對人類是可見的，這導致了人們做出因此會出現一些「靈異」的惡作劇。有些人向神明提供食物，而另一些人則喬裝戴上獸皮和獸首，以使漫遊的神靈誤以為他們是自己的一員。
It was believed that, during the festival, the world of the gods became visible to humans, resulting in supernatural mischief. Some people offered treats and food to the gods, while other wore disguises -- such as animal skins and heads -- so that wandering spirits might mistake them for one of their own.
班納汀說，躲在服裝之後的村民經常互相惡作劇，但同時卻歸咎於神靈。面具和喬裝被視為逃避追咎的手段。在萬聖節的整個演變過程中，這種想法一直持續著。」
"Hiding behind their costumes, villagers often played pranks on one another, but blamed the spirits," Bannatyne said. "Masks and cover-ups came to be seen as means to get away with things. That's continued throughout Halloween's evolution."
基督教在11世紀將10月31日定為節日，以此作為重組異教徒慶典的一部分。的確，「Halloween」這個名稱源自「All Hallows Eve」，即「All Saints' Day」（萬聖節）的前一天（11月1日）。不過，薩姆海因的許多民俗都得到了融合和延續-包括服飾。
'Darkitecture': The art and psychology of haunted house design
「深色建築」：鬼屋設計的藝術學和心理學
在中世紀的英格蘭和愛爾蘭，人們會穿上象徵死靈的裝束，挨家挨戶收集點心或是代表著死靈的灑滿香料的「靈魂蛋糕」（一種稱為「souling」的基督教習俗）。從15世紀後期開始，人們開始穿扮成冬季幽靈或惡魔的服裝，並通過朗誦經文歌曲和表演民俗戲劇來換取食物（這種作法稱為「mumming」）。
In medieval England and Ireland, people would dress up in outfits symbolizing the souls of the dead, going from house to house to gather treats or spice-filled "soul cakes" on their behalf (a Christian custom known as "souling"). From the late 15th century, people started wearing spooky outfits to personify winter spirits or demons, and would recite verses, songs and folk plays in exchange for food (a practice known as "mumming")
18世紀，隨著第一波愛爾蘭和蘇格蘭移民開始抵達美國，萬聖節的迷信、傳統和服裝也隨之遷移。據時尚歷史學家、紐約大學服裝研究碩士項目主任Nancy Deihl說，萬聖節融入美國文化之後，就很快流行起來了。她在一次電話採訪中說：「美國農村地區的人們接受了它的異教根源，認為萬聖節是一個以死亡為中心的黑暗時刻。他們用床單、化妝品、面具這樣手邊的東西把自己打扮成可怕的樣子。她補充道：「服裝主要是來隱匿身份，打扮的目的是完全偽裝。」
"People in rural America really embraced its pagan roots, and the idea of it as a dark occasion, centered around death," she said in a phone interview. "They wore scary, frightening get-ups, which were made at home with whatever was on hand: sheets, makeup, improvised masks.
"Anonymity was a big part of the costumes," she added. "The whole point of dressing up was to be completely in disguise."
Three girls prepare for Halloween festivities，Ohio, 1929.
1929年，俄亥俄州，三個女孩在準備慶祝萬聖節。
到了20世紀20年代和30年代，人們每年都在租用的沙龍或家庭住宅舉行萬聖節化妝舞會，成年人和兒童都會慶祝。據Bannatyne說，有的時候，大家從8月就開始準備服裝了。從夏天到聖誕節，慶祝活動似乎也得益於日曆上的時間安排。「這是在換季前聚在一起的一個機會，」Deihl說， 「隨著萬聖節變得更加商業化，營銷工作人員在這方面發揮了巨大作用。「
在這幾十年裡，隨著第一批大型服裝製造公司的出現，服裝也受到流行文化的影響。據Bannatyne說，賓夕法尼亞州匹茲堡的J.Halpern公司(Halco這個名字更有名)在這段時間裡開始對像大力水手、奧利芙·奧伊爾、小孤兒安妮和米老鼠這樣的虛構人物進行商標註冊。她說：「人們對在社會邊緣扮演角色也很著迷，」她補充說，「海盜、吉普賽人甚至無家可歸的人都成了常見的服裝選擇。」
Those same decades also saw the emergence of costumes influenced by pop culture, alongside the first major costume manufacturing companies. The J. Halpern Company (better known as Halco) of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, began licensing images of fictional characters like Popeye, Olive Oyl, Little Orphan Annie and Mickey Mouse around this time, according to Bannatyne.
"People also became fascinated with impersonating characters at the fringe of society," she said, adding that pirates, gypsies and even homeless people became common outfit choices.
在北美，萬聖節惡作劇一直延續著古老的做法，有時甚至會造成破壞和騷亂。 到了20世紀40年代中期，媒體將這一晚的無政府管理狀態（要麼至少是窗戶和柵欄的受損問題）稱為「萬聖節問題」，而服裝可能「部分促成了這種行為」，Bannatyne說。
By the mid-1940s, the press had dubbed the night's anarchy (or its broken fences and smashed windows, at least) the "Halloween problem" -- and costumes may have "partly enabled that behavior," Bannatyne said.
Portrait of party goers at the Chicago Art Institute's Halloween Ball, Chicago, Illinois, 1949.
1949年，芝加哥，伊利諾州，芝加哥藝術學院萬聖節舞會上的派對人物肖像。
為了防止犯罪損害，地方和國家官員試圖將萬聖節改日，並把它包裝成為「一項針對年幼兒童的活動」。 芝加哥市議會甚至在1942年投票廢除萬聖節，並在10月31日設立「保護日」。
倫敦時尚學院的社會學研究員Anna-Mari Almila在電話中說：「萬聖節的歷史經歷了所有權的變化，它與死亡的原始聯繫變得越來越脆弱，這為完全不同種類的（服裝)創造了空間。」
"Throughout its history, Halloween has gone through changes of ownership," said Anna-Mari Almila, a sociology research fellow at the London College of Fashion, over the phone. "Its original connection to death became more and more tenuous, which made space for altogether different kinds of (costumes)."
第二次世界大戰後，隨著電視流行文化進入千家萬戶，越來越多的美國萬聖節服裝開始模仿超級英雄、漫畫人物和娛樂人物。同時，也有更多人願意去商店裡購買這些服裝：根據板巖雜誌，到1960年，製造公司Ben Cooper佔據了70%-80%的萬聖節服裝市場，推動了萬聖節的流行。
Deihl表示，也正是大約在這個時候，成年人們開始再次為萬聖節裝扮。和孩子們的服裝一樣，這些裝扮的趣味性大於恐怖性，比起惡魔和幽靈，「星球大戰」或是印第安納·瓊斯更常是它們的靈感來源。
A school age boy stands in his living room for a portrait of him wearing a clown costume.
一個穿著小丑服裝的男孩在他臥室裡的照片
「一般來說，我們將60年代視為萬聖節服裝發展的轉折點，」Deihl補充道，「尤其是成年人們，他們開始摘下面具露出臉，也不再嚴嚴實實地遮住全身。人們用萬聖節服裝展示一個更輕鬆、特別的自我：像是神奇女俠、盧克·天行者，或是任何你想成為的對象。」
"Generally speaking, the '60s marked a shift in the way we dress up for Halloween," Deihl added. "Grown-ups, in particular, started ditching masks and full-on coverage, opting to show their faces. Costumes became a way to play a lighter, special version of oneself: showing the world you 'were' Wonder Woman, or Luke Skywalker, or what have you."
不過驚悚服裝依然沒有退出舞臺，1970-80年代湧現的一系列恐怖電影，從 John Carpenter的《萬聖節》到Wes Craven的《半夜鬼上床》都給了這些服裝靈感。近幾十年來，在美國各州都有同志團體將這個節日視作一個能夠穿奇裝異服和舉行遊行的場合，這也促進了萬聖節派對的繁榮和侵略性服裝的流行。Deihl表示，這種流行在近幾十年裡常常顯得過分性感和野性。
But there was still a place for scary outfits, encouraged by a slew of splatter-horror movies that started emerging in the 1970s and 80s, from John Carpenter's "Halloween" to Wes Craven's "A Nightmare on Elm Street." These decades also saw gay communities across the States adopt the holiday as an occasion to wear outrageous outfits and hold parades, contributing to a boom in Halloween parties and the popularization of provocative costumes that "in recent decades," Deihl, said, "have oftentimes leaned towards the overtly sexy and campy."
「萬聖節服裝已經從一種偽裝變成了徹底的自我展示，」Almila說，「如今萬聖節已經成為一個大型的商品性節日，徹底脫離了任何基督教或是異教的聯繫，更關注於展示人們的幻想，這也是它在全球如此成功的原因。」
"Halloween costumes have gone from disguises to full-on exhibitionist," Almila said. "Today, it's one big capitalist celebration completely detached from any vestige of Christianity or paganism, and more centered around expressing people's fantasies -- which also explains its success globally."
「我認為它們無疑變得更能反映我們生活的這個時代了，」Deihl補充道，「但是和過去相比，現在自己製作萬聖節服裝的人已經很少了，這些服裝裡的個人創造力也大大減少。」
"I think they've certainly become more reflective of the times we live in," Deihl added. "But there are also far fewer people making their own Halloween outfits now, and a lot less personal creativity going into what you wear, compared to the early days.
「我們往往都被可供購買的同一系列服裝中所吸引，也因此造成了巨大的浪費。我認為如果人們像以前那樣製作自己的服裝，就可以更獨立地表達自我。」
"We're all drawing from the same range of costumes available for purchase. And creating immense waste because of it. I think people would express themselves much more individually if they crafted their own costumes like they used to."
原文連結：
https://edition.cnn.com/style/article/history-of-halloween-costumes/index.htm
編譯 | 高嘉怡 陳雨昕 靳曉樂
排版 | 靳曉樂
審核 | 趙寒旭 劉佳