Why makeup matters?
為什麼化妝很重要？
Last year was a rough one for Joyce Pequeno, a 28-year-old inmate.Her clemency hearing was postponed. Still, most days she dabbed on foundation, swirled eyeshadow across her lids and outlined her eyes with kohl. "It makes me feel good, like a real human being," she said over email.
對於28歲的囚犯喬伊斯·佩奎諾(Joyce Pequeno)來說，去年是艱難的一年。她的赦免聽證會被推遲了。不過，大多數日子裡，她還是會輕擦粉底，在眼瞼上抹上眼影，用眼影粉描出眼睛輪廓。"這讓我感覺很好，就像一個真正的人，"她通過電子郵件說。
Many inmates find comfort in cosmetics. Stripped of freedom, friends and family, makeup can help inmate retains a sense of identity and present themselves in the manner they choose.
許多囚犯在化妝品中找到了安慰。在被剝奪自由、朋友和家人的情況下，化妝可以幫助囚犯保留一種身份感，有選擇地展示自己。
Despite the potential psychological benefits, access to makeup in prisons has always been politically fraught. Viewed as frivolous or a luxury, offenders have historically been considered undeserving of such rewards.
儘管有潛在的心理好處，但在監獄裡獲得化妝品一直是政治上的難題。在歷史上，罪犯被認為是輕浮或奢侈的，不應該得到這種獎勵。
In 1998, Virginia's department of corrections attempted to ban makeup, citing its contraband potential. Patricia L. Huffman, warden of Fluvanna Correctional Center protested the ban. "We're providing an opportunity for women to become better at dealing with the world ... a piece of that is how we look," The cosmetic clampdown was rolled back.
1998年，維吉尼亞州的懲教署試圖禁止化妝，理由是化妝品可能成為違禁物。帕特裡夏·L·霍夫曼(Patricia L. Huffman)是弗盧萬納懲教中心的典獄長，對這項禁令表示抗議：「我們為女性提供一個更好地與世界打交道的機會……其中就包括女性的外表。」對化妝品的限制被取消了。
"Not giving people the opportunity to attend to their appearance is just another way of dehumanizing and making people feel as if they're worthless," said Vollen-Katz,executive director of the John Howard Association, a prison watchdog,who views restrictive cosmetic rules as another example of prisons overstepping their bounds. "We've moved away from rehabilitation and become far more about retribution."
監獄監管機構約翰·霍華德協會的執行董事沃倫·卡茨說："不給人們機會去注意他們的外表，只是另一種非人化的方式，讓人們覺得他們毫無價值。"她認為限制性的美容規則是監獄越界的另一個例子。"我們已經遠離了改造的初衷，而更接近報復"。
Necessary innovation
必要的創新
Over the decades, frustrated prisoners have taken creative approaches to acquire cosmetics. In the 1920s, women inside England's Holloway Prison scraped paint chips off their cell walls to use as face powder and dampened red paper to use as rouge. In 1929, women inmates in New Jersey surreptitiously used pages torn from prison library books to twist and curl their hair and pencil(ed) their eyebrows with pieces of wood reduced to charcoal. In the 1950s, wax paper became a hot ticket item when it was discovered that it could be melted down and used to straighten hair or give it shine.
幾十年來，沮喪的囚犯們獲取化妝品的方法極富創意。在20世紀20年代，英國霍洛威監獄的女囚犯們從牢房牆上刮下油漆碎片做粉底，溼紅紙做胭脂。據當地一家報紙報導，1929年，新澤西州的女囚犯偷偷地用從監獄圖書館的書中撕下的書頁來卷頭髮，並用燒成木炭的木頭畫眉。20世紀50年代，人們發現蠟紙可以熔化後用來拉直頭髮或使頭髮光潔，於是蠟紙成了獄中的搶手貨。
The dining hall provided other resources. Women pocketed sticks of butter and mixed them with pencil shavings to create homemade mascara and eye shadow. In the 1960s, women used lightbulb shards to trim their hair into prohibited bobs (so-called masculine haircuts were forbidden).
監獄食堂提供了其他資源。婦女們把黃油條裝進袋子，與鉛筆屑混合，自製睫毛膏和眼影。在20世紀60年代，婦女們用燈泡碎片將頭髮修剪成被禁止的波波頭（所謂的男性髮型是被禁止的）。
Today, permanent markers have replaced charcoal, Kool-Aid doubles as hair dye, clear deodorant for blush and M&M's are used in lieu of lip stain. Vollen-Katz is not surprised by these DIY hacks. "There is nothing quite like deprivation to cause one to innovate," she said.
如今，永久性記號筆已經取代了木炭，酷愛飲料可以作為染髮劑，透明除臭劑可以作為腮紅，M&M豆被用來代替唇膏。沃倫·卡茨對這些DIY小技巧並不感到驚訝。她說："沒有什麼比匱乏更能促使人創新的了，"她說。
Research suggests that access to cosmetics reduces violence among inmates, a phenomenon credited to the heightened sense of self-esteem that attending to one's appearance can bring. Studies find that inmates with a greater sense of self-worth also reintegrate better after serving their sentences. Even without this data, many penal reformers have seen access to cosmetics as beneficial.
研究表明，獲得化妝品可以減少囚犯的暴力行為，這一現象歸功於關注自己的外表可以帶來更高的自尊感。研究發現，有更多自我價值感的囚犯在服刑後也能更好地重新融入社會。即使沒有這些數據，許多刑法改革者也認為獲得化妝品是有益的。
The beauty program opened inside the Women's House of Detention in 1956, outfitted with curling irons, dryers and electric stoves where Black inmates learned to wash and wax their hair. This was the first time in the New York City Department of Correction's history that funds were allotted to women's education courses (typing, sewing and culinary arts followed).
美容課程於1956年在婦女拘留所內開設，配備了捲髮器、烘乾機和電爐，黑人囚犯在那裡學習洗髮和給頭髮上蠟。這是紐約市懲教署歷史上第一次為婦女教育課程撥款（隨後是打字、縫紉和烹飪藝術）。
Outside influences have often played a role in getting cosmetics to prisoners. In 1970 in Chicago, philanthropic millionaire W. Clement Stone developed a prison charm school. "We are going to get these women to think they have outer charm, (then) they can work on their inner charm themselves," he told Sepia magazine at the time. This push was international. In 1973, a German social worker told Reuters lipstick and nail varnish helped prisoners "overcome a feeling of indifference and resignation."
外界的影響經常在為囚犯提供化妝品方面發揮作用。1970年，芝加哥的百萬富翁慈善家W-克萊門特-斯通（W. Clement Stone）開了一所監獄魅力學校。"我們要讓這些女囚認為她們有外在的魅力，（然後）她們可以自己努力提高內在的魅力，"他當時告訴《Sepia》雜誌。這種推動是國際性的。1973年，一位德國社會工作者告訴路透社，口紅和指甲油有助於囚犯 "克服冷漠和無奈的感覺"。
The growth of prison beauty schools also reshaped the narrative around cosmetics. The schools' purpose was twofold: They aimed to improve inmates' self-esteem and equip them with marketable skills. The beautification business was a viable path to employment.It has been shown that formerly incarcerated people who land jobs with growth potential find it easier to rejoin society and have significantly lower recidivism rates.
監獄美容學校的發展也重塑了人們對化妝品的看法。這些學校的目的有兩個: 一是提高囚犯的自尊，二是讓她們具備市場需要的技能。做美容生意是一條可行的就業之路。有研究表明，曾經的囚犯找到了具有發展潛力的工作，她們更容易重新融入社會，而且再犯罪率明顯較低。
Today cosmetology schools are a familiar presence in women's prisons. "We have a zero recidivism rate," said Christie Luther, who founded the R.I.S.E cosmetology school over the phone. "Eighty-five percent of our graduates are working right now -- in hair salons, many in management roles."
今天，美容學校在女子監獄中很常見。"創辦R.I.S.E美容學校的克裡斯蒂·盧瑟在電話中說："我們的重犯率為零。"我們85%的畢業生現在正在美髮店裡工作，許多人擔任管理職務。"
重點字詞：
1、frivolous:adj. 輕浮、輕佻
例：Toad ceased his frivolous antics at once.
託德立刻停止了他那輕浮的滑稽動作。
2、clampdown:n. 壓制；取締；嚴禁
例：A police clampdown on car thieves hit a snag when villains stole one of their cars.
匪徒偷走了警方一輛汽車後，警方打擊盜車賊的行動遇到了一點兒小挫折。
3、surreptitiously:adv. 偷偷地；秘密地；不正當地
例：Surreptitiously Mark looked at his watch.
馬克偷偷看了看表。
4、deprivation:n. 貧困，匱乏
例:Millions more suffer from serious sleep deprivation caused by long work hours.
還有數百萬人由於工作時數長導致他們嚴重睡眠不足。
5、allot:v. 分配，分派，劃撥
例：Allot regular funding to most departments.
給大多數部門分配固定的資金。
原文連結：https://edition.cnn.com/style/article/prisoners-makeup-pandemic/index.html