The revival of Irish whiskey in the 21st century

A distilled spirit with a long history and various expressions, whiskey was produced as far back as the 6th century. The first written record of the spirit appeared in 1405 in the Irish Annals of Clonmacnoise, an ancient monastic site. According to the text, the head of a clan died after 「taking a surfeit of aqua vitae」 – elucidating that whiskey, in fact, originated in Ireland, with Christian monks creating it in their monasteries through distillation techniques learned from Arabians. Even the word 「whiskey」 comes from the Irish (Gaelic) translation of 「uisce beatha」, meaning 「water of life」. Recognised for its exceptional quality, the 19th century saw Irish whiskey became the largest spirit category across the globe, and so came the famous Golden Age of Irish Whiskey. At its peak, there were 88 licensed distilleries producing more than 12 million 9-litre cases annually in Ireland. Dublin, the epicentre of Irish distilling and home to many of the largest producers, was referred to as the 「Golden Triangle」.   

However, a series of unfortunate events – including the Great Irish Famine, Prohibition in the United States, and the Irish War of Independence – led to the temporary downfall of the industry. Thankfully, the spirit re-emerged into prominence by the end of 20th century. The founding of Cooley Distillery in 1987, along with the support of local government and big enterprises, inaugurated a renaissance for Irish whiskey. After the new millennium, global sales of Irish whiskey soared dramatically. Exports of Irish whiskey to China, for instance, have grown in value almost five times in five years, and a further 75% in the first three quarters of 2020. This well-weathered spirit has once again found favour in people’s sights and regained its former glory.

Ireland’s fortunate climate and landscape contribute to the outstanding quality of Irish whiskey, while its strong heritage and origins grace it with unique characteristics. Distinctive ingredients and mastery production processes lie behind Irish whiskey. There are four different styles of Irish whiskey: Single Malt, Single Grain, Blended, and the finally the quintessential Single Pot Still, which is exclusive to Ireland. While early Irish distilleries used a mix of malted and unmalted barley strictly to avoid a new tax, surprisingly, this practice resulted in a beautiful cereal flavour, while the use of copper pot stills created a smoother whiskey with distinct spiciness.   Moreover, traditionally Irish whiskey uses barley dried with hot air rather than smoke, so typically it does not have a smoky, peaty taste, but one of grain and sweet caramel. It is also traditionally distilled three times, making it smoother in taste than a spirit of the same age that’s been distilled twice. Therefore, Irish whiskey is an ideal choice for the younger generation and casual drinkers: it is easy to drink, even served neat.   

Over recent years, while steeped in tradition, Irish whiskey has also welcomed significant innovation. By experimenting with the use of different woods – not only oak – during the maturation process, and blending of different grains to achieve complex and delicate flavours, this novel new approach has led to a diverse range of whiskeys.Meanwhile, local distilleries are also expanding and diversifying. From boutique craft distillers producing in small batches, to large-scale producers backed by multinational investment, the oldest pot stills and cutting-edge column stills are used together to deliver unique characteristics.

Approachable and versatile, Irish whiskey works very well in modern bartending. Besides its use in well-loved classics, such as Irish Coffee, it also has applications in modern cocktails.Previously, DRiNK ran a feature on Irish whiskey (check it out here). As a super smooth base spirit, it can add lustre to many different drinks, from an apple Highball to a twisted Manhattan. 

Whiskey and Apple Highball

| Irish whiskey | Apple juice | Aromatic bitters | 

Tipperary

 | Irish whiskey | Sweet vermouth | Green Chartreuse | Orange bitters | It’s also worth noting that Irish whiskeys are a sustainably minded, with most whiskey producers affiliated with Origin Green: Ireland’s food and drink sustainability programme which brings the whole industry together at all levels of the supply chain to set and achieve social and environmental sustainability targets. So, if your venue is seeking a sustainable whiskey expression to create a more environmentally-conscious menu, Irish whiskeys should be on your list.  With its popularity increasing, challenge your creativity and play with Irish whiskey on your menu!The Irish government’s support has played a vital role in the revival of Irish whiskey, with Bord Bia acting as a protagonist in promoting the spirit.This month, Bord Bia hosted an 「Irish Whiskey Night」 in Shanghai, bringing together many of China’s industry influencers, whiskey experts and alcohol connoisseurs. They were joined by 10 Irish alcohol suppliers, including Irish Distillers (Jameson) and Teeling, to explore the rich heritage of Irish whiskey and experience the glamour of this iconic spirit.As an Irish state agency, Bord Bia is committed to promoting premium Irish food and beverage globally, helping spread Irish culture, connect local suppliers with buyers all over the world and propel a new age of Irish whiskey.   
Pour yourself a beautiful glass of Irish whiskey and share in the night’s highlights with the video below. Enjoy!

【This post is sponsored by BORD BIA IRISH FOOD BOARD.】