原文來自：www.nicros.com 作者：EricJ.Horst 編譯：Liufeng51
在先鋒攀巖的初期，很有可能使你在一個難點處猶豫，是放棄還是繼續向上，在衝向最難點而墜落（也有可能突破難點而成功）。毫無疑問，期望完攀線路而避免衝墜的本能反應對你來說是精神上的巨大挑戰，這種高度焦慮不安的心情將阻止或破壞你平穩而自信的攀爬。然而，這卻是所有即將成為先鋒攀巖者必須克服的問題。通過特定訓練，你將克服衝墜的恐懼而使水平更上一層樓。事實上，自我克服衝墜恐懼的方法也有助於你在生活的其它挑戰領域發揮作用。
要習慣於衝墜，必須與真實的衝墜體驗直接對話，在你的本能恐懼中必須強制自己衝墜（假設自己在安全的運動線路或者巖館裡），這種衝墜練習只要使你衝向先鋒攀的困難極限即可。許多初學者認為這是難以忍受的，他們在困難的攀登面前太緊張，因為一直向上的艱難攀爬，不清楚要衝墜或衝墜後的情形是很可怕的事。有趣的是，一旦他們衝墜過，平安無事的先鋒衝墜體驗將消除其危險幻想，大多數的恐懼因此消失。
如果你不能使自己試著衝墜，則需要進行有目的的脫落來戰勝恐懼。通常可以選擇室內攀巖館或者有良好保護的野外垂直運動線路進行衝墜，懸巖的線路是理想的場所。攀爬三至四個膨脹螺釘高，確定你的保護系統沒有問題，最後一個膨脹螺釘離你的安全帶一至兩英尺，然後開始你的第一次衝墜。當繩索制動以後，你向外翻出的身體僅衝墜了一小段距離，分析保護系統是如何工作的。然後，爬得比剛才更高些嘗試另一次有目的的衝墜，重複這個過程多次，直至使最後一顆膨脹螺釘高出你的腳底。
開始衝墜訓練的時候感覺像是吃苦藥，幾星期之後，你將有意識或潛意識適應衝墜的感覺，此時便可以繼續On-sight線路或紅點攀爬了。你對衝墜的恐懼將減小，可以專注於嘗試攀爬目標了。做到這點，將帶給你全新的突破。
（第一次翻譯，謬誤之處，敬請指正！謝謝！）
Mike Free man and Russ Cluneon Love Life（12b）
Liufeng51關於先鋒衝墜練習的一些經驗補充
1）找一個熟練的你信任的先鋒保護者，可以緩解練習脫落時的恐懼；
2）先鋒之前要練習掛快掛的方法，不管哪種開口方向的快掛，左右手均需熟練，每個動作至少練習50次，同時學習解快掛的方法（扣反了快掛要解開，初學者很容易將快掛扣反）；
3）先鋒衝墜最好先在人工巖壁上訓練，超過90度的仰角或大小屋簷是最好的練習場所，可以減少意外受傷的可能；
4）衝墜訓練時最好爬得高些，翻出仰角或屋簷是比較好的選擇，一般下面至少五六把快掛（十米以上），給繩子預留足夠的緩衝長度，相對來說會更安全些，經過長距離的衝墜後，應該換繩的另一頭練習，並讓繩子「休息」一段時間；
5）衝墜練習時不要抓繩子，如果害怕，可以先從短距離開始練習，逐步加大衝墜距離，至不感覺害怕為止；
6）衝墜時要放鬆，雙手自然伸展，也可以護在胸前，但不要用力推巖壁，以免脫離巖壁過遠，撞向巖壁受傷（可以用腳蹬巖壁）；
7）先鋒攀爬時注意你的腳和繩子，不要讓繩子纏繞住了你的腳後跟，以免發生倒掛衝墜。
附原文：
Beating the Fear of Falling
Early ventures at lead climbing will likely have you in the midst of a crux pondering whether to retreat from the difficulties or push yourself to the point of falling (or possibly a sUCCess without falling!). No doubt, there will be many mental battles waged as your desire to do a route conflicts with a primal instinct to avoid falling. The result will be a high level of anxiety that feeds back and disrupts your ability to climb smoothly and confidently. Recognize, however, that this is a battle that all would-be lead climbers must persevere through. Given a committed, disciplined effort, you will EVENTually conquer the fear of falling and reveal a whole new level of ability. Whats more, winning over fear is a process of self-development that will enhance your capabilities in other chAllenging areas of your life.
To become accustom to falling, however, is a state that only results from real-life experience at taking lead falls. Therefore, you must force yourself to fall (assuming its a safe sport route or gym climb) in spite of what your instincts dictate. Such "practice at falling" is something that might occur simply by pushing yourself to the limit on a difficult lead climb. Many novice leaders find this to be an impossible task, because its just too scary to push upward on a hard climb not knowing if they will fall or what the fall will be like. Interestingly, most of the fear evaporates once they do fall--experiencing the uneventfulness of the average lead fall dispels the illusion of danger.
If you cant bring yourself to fall trying, you will need to stage some intentional falls in order to beat the fear. An indoor climbing gym or a steep well-protected sport route provide the ideal platform for practice falls. Select a slightly overhanging route void of high-profile holds, and climb up to the third or fourth bolt. Confirm that your belayer is ready, and then take your first fall with the last bolt you clipped just a foot or two below your harness. In this case, letting go will turn out to be rather anticlimactic as you drop only a few feet before the rope arrests the fall. Upon taking the fall, analyze how well the belay system worked. (It is trustworthy after all!) Now, climb back up a foot or two higher than before and take another intentional fall. Repeat this process one or two more times, with the goal of taking your final practice fall with the bolt at or just below your feet.
At first, performing this falling drill will feel much like taking bitter medicine. After a few weeks, however, your conscious and subconscious will acclimate to the feeling of falling. Then, as you begin to pursue on-sight and redpoint ascents, youll notice a decreASIng fear of falling and a new instinctual desire to risk and embrace falling in the attempt of a worthy goal. Recognize this new disposition as a major breakthrough, and pat yourself on the back!
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