來自牛津大學一名教授的研究表明，Veganuary（一家英國慈善機構，鼓勵人們每年1月進行純植物性飲食）的行動僅在英國就有望節省450,000次從倫敦飛往柏林的航班產生的二氧化碳排放量，以及250萬升水。而這只是31天帶來的影響。根據同一研究，更持久地堅持純植物性飲食是減少對環境的影響和73%個人碳足跡的「絕佳方式」。
According to a study by a professor at Oxford University, Veganuary (a British charity which encourages people to go vegan for the month of January annually) in the UK alone is expected to have saved the Earth's atmosphere from the equivalent production of CO2 as 450,000 flights from London to Berlin, as well as 2.5 million litres of water. This is the impact of only 31 days. However, according to the same study, a more permanent adoption of veganism, would be the 'biggest way', to reduce our environmental impact and reduce an individual's carbon footprint by 73 percent.
不僅動物食品會對環境造成影響，所有的動物產品都會對環境造成影響 - 包括皮革。
And it’s not just animal food products that have an impact on the environment, it’s all animal products, too - including leather.
圖片來源 Image source: Ethical Gallery
根本上來說，皮革就是動物的皮，這個皮會被去掉所有的毛髮，然後進行處理(或「曬黑」)以便保存，最後用選定的顏色、手感或壓花來完成。製造商會使用這種成品生產各種產品，如鞋類，服裝，內飾，汽車裝飾等。
Leather is basically the skin of an animal, that has had all hair or fur removed, is then treated (or 『tanned』) to preserve it and then finished with a chosen colour, feel or embossing. Manufacturers will then use this finished product to produce various items such as footwear, clothing, interiors, car upholstery etc.
圖片來源 Image source: townsendleather.com
So, what is vegan leather?
vegan皮革 - 本質上是一種不使用獸皮的人造「皮革」材料。vegan皮革的生產方法和生產材料有很多種，包括合成材料，如塑料，以及天然材料，如軟木，菠蘿皮，蘋果皮等。
Vegan leather – essentially a faux 'leather' material that does not use animal hides. There are a variety of ways in which vegan leather can be produced and a variety of materials used to produce it. Including synthetics such as plastics, as well as natural materials such as cork, pineapple skins and apple skins, etc.
圖片來源 Image source: Ecowings推出由自行車內胎製成的vegan皮帶。Ecowings offers a vegan leather belt made from bicycle inner tubes.
Environmental costs of leather
目前，全世界的皮革工業都被指責造成了一些嚴重的環境破壞，原因不僅僅因為它是肉類和奶製品工業的副產品。
The world’s current leather industry stands accused of causing some serious environmental damages, and not just because it is a by-product of the meat and dairy industry.
圖片來源 Image source: Ethical Gallery
動物農業對環境產生的不利影響，包括過度使用水和土地資源，森林採伐和溫室氣體排放等等。此外，為了放牧牛群而大規模開墾亞馬遜雨林也導致了氣候急劇變化。
The animal agricultural industry has some detrimental impacts on the environment, including (but not excluding) water and land overuse, deforestation, and greenhouse gas emissions etc. Furthermore, the vast clearings of the Amazon rainforest for bovine ranching, is dramatically contributing towards climate change.
可持續服裝聯盟的Higg材料可持續性指數是用于衡量衣物製造過程中對環境產生的影響的指數，它將大多數皮革評估為159（聚酯為44，棉花為98），如此高的原因為皮革製造是全球變暖和水資源過度使用和汙染的重要成因。
The Sustainable Apparel Coalition’s Higg Materials Sustainability Index – which measures impact up to the point of fabrication – gives most leathers an impact of 159 (compared with 44 for polyester and 98 for cotton), due to its high contribution to global warming and water use and pollution.
圖片來源 Image source: Ethical Gallery
在皮革處理的各種程序中，產生毒素最高的一環為「鞣革"。大約90%的鞣革都是鉻鞣，即將皮革浸於一桶桶含水、鉻鹽和鞣液的混合物中，防止皮革腐爛，並賦予它們柔軟的手感和質感。
The most toxic phase in the processing of leathers is the 『tanning』 phase. Around 90% of the process uses chromium tanning, which are doused in drums of water, chromium salts and tanning liquor to prevent them from decomposing and to give them their soft feel and texture.
圖片來源 Image source: worldofleathers.com
處理過程中會產生大量的氣體和化學物質，並釋放到大氣和排水系統中 - 其中包括致癌元素鉻（IV）。鉻（IV）含有劇毒，因此美國和歐洲關閉了很多鞣革產業，這也導致大部分皮革製造轉向貧困的欠發達地區，造成鉛，酸和砷直接流入當地的溪河湖泊。
This process cases a vast array of gases and chemicals to be produced and released into the atmosphere and into the draining systems - including carcinogenic chromium (IV). Carcinogenic chromium (IV) is so incredibly noxious that stringent rules and regulations have caused the closure of many tanneries across the USA and Europe, leading to most leather production taking place in poorer, developing countries. Resulting in the lead, acids and arsenics, often flowing directly into local waterways.
在一些生產皮革的國家中，甚至有僅10歲的孩子在製革廠工作。接觸這些有毒化學物質會刺激口腔，呼吸系統和眼睛，產生各種形式的皮膚反應，消化問題，腎臟和肝臟損害，並導致長期的生殖問題，甚至某些癌症。
In some of the countries where leather is produced, children as young as 10 are working in the tanneries. Exposure to these toxic chemicals can cause irritation to the mouth, respiratory system and eyes. As well as all manner of skin reactions, digestive problems, kidney and liver damage, long-term reproductive problems and even some cancers.
北非的製革工人 Tanning workers in North Africa
圖片來源 Image source: Ethical Gallery
So, what leather alternatives are available?
皮革的合成替代品已經存在數年了，例如聚氨酯（PU）。儘管事實證明，這種替代品在Higg指數中的表現好於真皮，即在全球變暖和汙染方面得分較低，但聚氨酯的處理自身卻造成了環境破壞。
Synthetic alternatives to leather have existed for several years – such as polyurethane (PU). While this proves to be better for the environment than real leather on the Higg Index, with lower scores for global warming and pollution, the disposal of polyurethane causes its very own environmental damages.
國際化學品集團正在開發出更具可持續性的解決方案 - 由回收聚酯製成的高級人造革和麂皮絨，並使用無毒染料製成服裝，鞋類和配飾。
More sustainable solutions are in development from international chemicals groups – high-grade artificial leathers and suedes derived from recycled polyester and using non-toxic dyes, destined for use in apparel, footwear and accessories.
此外，人們也正在嘗試將天然替代品用於鞋類和配飾，包括地中海軟木橡樹製成的軟木織物，用聚合物增強的樹皮纖維以及從海藻，葡萄，菠蘿和蘑菇中提取的皮革替代品！
Also, natural alternatives are being trialled for use in footwear and accessories include cork fabric from Mediterranean Cork Oak trees, bark fibre reinforced with polymers, and leather substitutes derived from seaweed, grapes, pineapple and mushrooms!
軟木橡樹 Cork Oak tree
圖片來源 Image source: ecology.info
現在，購買純植物皮革產品比以往任何時候都容易。有許多國際在線商店都在銷售優質，環保，基於植物的皮革時尚商品。
It’s now easier than ever to buy vegan leather products. There are so many international online stores selling quality, environmentally friendly, plant-based leather fashion items.
純天然、零動物元素、零殘忍、零油、零化學
圖片來源 Image source: Ethical Gallery
以下是一份國際性vegan品牌，他們提供設計師標準的鞋子、手提袋和配飾，同時支持國際貨運：
Below is a list of various international vegan brands who make designer-standard shoes, handbags and accessories. AND, they all ship internationally:
皮革網站-vegan-leather websites
goodguysdontwearleather.com
wills-vegan-shoes.com
avesuveganshoes.com
查看vegan皮革鞋類指南 Check out this guide to vegan leather shoes:
↓
https://www.livekindly.co/complete-guide-best-vegan-shoes/.
China’s first & Only Incubator that focuses on Plant-Based businesses has officially launched. Entrepreneurs now can financially support of 500,000 RMB to see their project come to life and get several introductions to bigger VC funding.
胸懷大志，志存高遠。企業的目標應該是吸引世界各地數以百萬計的人，而不僅僅是周圍有限的人。現在，通過道夫子，這一目標將完全能能夠實現！
THINK BIG and AIM HIGH. Aim to attract millions of people around the world, not just the locals. IT IS POSSIBLE NOW, and you can make this possible by scaling up with Dao Foods!
掃描左方二維碼了解更多關於OmniPork新膳肉，右方二維碼了解更多植物制健康食品，讓我們攜手推進綠色飲食生活！
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