沙面，幾乎在每一位到廣州的旅行者的必打卡清單上。
Shamian Island, or Shameen Island, which barely covers a third of a square kilometer but houses an array of European-style buildings, has been put on the map for many holidaymakers. On Mafengwo, a travel service and social networking platform, over 8,100 comments regarding Shamian have been posted with pictures up to this month.
這個面積僅有0.3平方公裡的城中小島，遍布著別於城中主流建築風格的歐式樓房和綠意盎然的街道，清新脫俗，深受「文藝青年」們的喜愛。每天來沙面島打卡的旅客，數不勝數。在旅遊網站「馬蜂窩」輸入「沙面」，可以看到關於它的評論超過8100條（截至2020年9月）。
圖片來源：吃喝玩樂IN廣州
那麼，讓沙面如此吸睛的「歐洲範兒」是怎麼來的？這其中有著怎樣的故事？它在歷史上曾扮演什麼角色？讓我們一起來了解這座迷你島嶼的「前世」吧。
How come such a Chinese block ends up boasting so many western-style architectures? What kind of role has it been playing historically? Let’s probe into the past days of the islet.
一應俱全的生活社區
A well-equipped community
100多年前，沙面是與沙基（即由街市組成的片區）相連的沙洲，叫拾翠洲。1856年，英法聯軍向中國發動了第二次鴉片戰爭，英法聯軍攻佔廣州後，逼迫廣東衙門闢沙面為租界，並挖溝使它與沙基分開，在四周築砌花崗石，使它成為了一個真正的小島。
Previously known as Shicuizhou, Shamian Island was originally a sandbank connecting an area of street markets called Shaji. In 1856, Britain and French armies attacked and occupied Canton (Guangzhou today). The then government was forced to make concessions on Shamian, making it a foreign settlement and an isolated island separated from Shaji by an artificial river with granite piled around.
沙面被劃為租界之後，陸續興建起一百五十多座歐洲風格建築，有領事館、教堂、銀行、郵局、電報局、商行、醫院、酒店。
Since then, more than 150 European-style buildings rose straight from the ground, serving different purposes as consulates, churches, banks, postal offices, telegraph offices, commercial firms, hospitals and hotels.
約攝於1894年的沙面基督堂。圖片來自曾任粵海關稅務司的杜德維（英文名：Edward Bangs Drew）的家庭相冊。來源：布裡斯託大學中國老照片項目 The Church of Jesus Christ in Shamian photographed in 1894, from Edward Bangs Drew, who worked as a commissioner in the Canton Customs. Image courtesy of Drew, Edward Bangs collection, Harvard-Yenching Library, USA and Historical Photographs of China, University of Bristol (www.hpcbristol.net).
另外還有俱樂部、酒吧、網球場和遊泳場等，其中，沙面室內遊泳場始建於1887年，沙面網球場建於1905年，在中國都是首開先河。它們於2013年被合併為廣州市沙面體育俱樂部。
Also rising up from the ground were clubs, bars and a tennis court built in 1887 as well as an indoor swimming pool which came into use in 1905. There were neither tennis courts nor swimming pools in China before. In 2013, the tennis court and the swimming pool were merged into the Shamian Sports Club of Guangzhou.
沙面草地網球場，網球手和觀眾的合影，約攝於1803年，杜德維家庭相冊。圖片來源：布裡斯託大學中國老照片項目 Lawn tennis players and spectators in 1893, Image courtesy of Drew, Edward Bangs collection, Harvard-Yenching Library, USA and Historical Photographs of China, University of Bristol (www.hpcbristol.net).
上世紀40年代的沙面網球場，美國《生活》雜誌 A photo of the tennis court on Shamian Island published by LIFE Magazine in the U.S.
有著130多年歷史的沙面遊泳場 The indoor swimming pool of Shamian enjoys a history of over 130 years.
毗鄰沙面的人工河（今沙基湧）上同樣熱鬧。
The artificial river neighbouring Shamian(today's Shji Creek) also was buzzing with vitality.
曾是十三行某洋行合伙人的美國人威廉·亨特在《舊中國雜記》裡這樣形容：「可以看到各式各樣大大小小的船艇在不停地來往，幾乎把整個江面都蓋滿了……這些小艇中十有九隻是整個家庭的唯一住所，全家人從不在岸上落腳。這些人裡面不僅有生意人、工匠、木匠、鞋匠，以及裁縫,賣故衣、賣食品、賣飾物的，而且還有算命先生、應急郎中，也許還有『正規的』開業醫生、剃頭匠、爆玉米花的和專門替人洗頭的。總而言之，這些浮家泛宅的居民，就像陸上的居民一樣，各行各業，幹什麼的都有。」
According to Bits of Old China written by William C. Hunter, boat dwellers from all walks of life scattered on the river, including businessmen, craftsmen, tailors, fortune-tellers and herbalists who hardly left their "floating homes".
廣州沙面沙基湧上的疍民，約攝於1893年，杜德維家庭相冊。圖片來源：布裡斯託大學中國老照片項目 Boat dwellers on Shamian in 1893, Image courtesy of Drew, Edward Bangs collection, Harvard-Yenching Library, USA and Historical Photographs of China, University of Bristol (www.hpcbristol.net)
至於沙面島上的住戶，則多是各國領事館、銀行、洋行的人員以及外籍的稅務官和傳教士。
Only foreigners of high status such as clerks of consulates, employees of banks and firms and tax officers as well as missionaries were entitled to live on the island.
被外企包圍的小島
A home to foreign companies
沙面成為租界以後，先後有九家銀行、四十多家洋行和企業，在這裡設立區行、分行、支行、辦事處等，如吻嗜氏洋行（即美最時公司）、三達火油公司（即美孚公司）、德士古火油公司，英資的香港滙豐銀行、渣打銀行等。所謂的火油，就是煤油。
After Shamian became the Britain and French concessions, nine banks and over forty firms and companies chose to establish branches there, including Melchers&Co., Standard oil Co., the TeXaco oil Co., Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation Limited (HSBC), and Standard Chartered.
1915年發大水時的滙豐銀行。圖片來源：布裡斯託大學中國老照片項目 Hongkong & Shanghai Bank during the floods in 1915, Image courtesy of Richard Family collection, Fiona Dunlop and Historical Photographs of China, University of Bristol (www.hpcbristol.net)
美孚公司 Standard Oil Co.
太古洋行，約攝於1911-1912年。圖片來源：布裡斯託大學中國老照片項目 Butterfield and Swire office, 1911-12, Image courtesy of Swire, G. Warren collection, Archives & Special Collections, SOAS Library, University of London and Historical Photographs of China, University of Bristol (www.hpcbristol.net)
位於沙面大街59號的一棟建築呈回字形布局，四邊皆有外廊，為英國維多利亞式風格，它是亞細亞火油公司舊址——亞細亞火油公司便是著名的殼牌石油公司的子公司。殼牌煤油從光緒二十年（1894）開始進軍廣州，在沙面設立分支機構。
One of the buildings, situated at No. 59 Shamian Street, was designed into a rectangular shape with lanais at all sides. In typical Victorian style, the building used to house the Asiatic Petroleum Company, one of the subsidiaries of Royal Dutch Shell, who entered the Cantonese market by establishing its branch on Shamian in the 20th year of Emperor Guangxu's reign in the Qing Dynasty (1894).
亞細亞火油公司的原址現在佇立著一棟大樓 A building has occupied the old site of Asiatic Petroleum Company.
租界時期的亞細亞火油公司 Asiatic Petroleum Company in the period of concession
微妙的「中外」關係
Delicate Sino-foreign relation
當時，中國人對待外國人和「洋貨」的心理十分複雜。一方面，普通百姓對「洋人」們多少抱有畏懼心理；另一方面，他們也會「反擊」。
Chinese commoners at that time held a complicated attitude toward foreigners and the goods they sold. For one thing, the westerners were somewhat intimidating to them, for another, they didn't see them as superiors and sometimes "fought back".
乘肩輿（即轎子）的外國人 A western lady sitting on a sedan chair
沙面英格蘭橋（今沙面西橋）處站在圍欄外圍觀的廣州人，1900年。圖片來源：布裡斯託大學中國老照片項目 Cantonese people looking through a gate in 1900 near the English Bridge(today's West Bridge), Image courtesy of Carstairs, Jamie collection, Jamie Carstairs and Historical Photographs of China, University of Bristol (www.hpcbristol.net)
根據《廣州城坊志》記載，道光十一年(1831)，在十三行新豆欄街旁有一個碼頭，專門給洋商上貨、卸貨用的。有一年，廣東巡撫朱桂楨聽說海關署有一座西洋的自鳴鐘 ，非常好奇，邀上海關監督前去觀賞，到海關後見到碼頭，問洋商這是什麼，洋商回答：「是鬼子碼頭。」巡撫勃然大怒說：「內地怎可以有鬼子碼頭！」下令立即拆毀。工人馬上進場，把碼頭夷為平地。
According to the Records on Urban Construction of Guangzhou (《廣州城坊志》) , in the 11th year of Emperor Daoguang's reign in the Qing Dynasty(1831), there was a wharf beside Xindoulan Street of the Thirteen Hongs outside Shamian Island for foreign merchants to handle cargoes.
When Zhu Guizhen, the "Xunfu"(equivalent to today's governor) of Guangdong, stumbled on such a foreign wharf on his tour to the Customs Administration, he found it intolerable to have such a wharf exclusive to foreign merchants and commanded workers to dismantle it immediately. The wharf was then razed to the ground.
海關「暗道」
A secret passage for cargoes
清朝時期的沙面，和粵海關有著緊密聯繫，除了設有粵海關洋員、華員俱樂部和高級官員住宅樓，還為貨物的進出口提供了「暗道」。
Shamian was closely related to the Canton Customs in the Qing Dynasty, as it had houses and mansions specially built for foreign crews and senior officials as well as secret passages for smuggled goods.
當時，洋船進口，貨物入倉，海關查驗，不過是個形式，買辦們經常是以多報少的，這樣一來，流入市場的「老鼠貨」包括鴉片、嗎啡、軍火等等，無不應有盡有。
The relatively-isolated island also provided a secret passage for the import and export of cargoes. Under the shield of the customs, it was quite common for compradors to conceal some of the goods, including illegal items like opium and morphine.
在走私商品的同時，洋商們也從中國大量採購生絲、茶葉、木材、桐油、鎢礦砂、草蓆、豬鬃毛等貨品出口。
Meanwhile western merchants were acquiesced to smuggle commodities while exporting Chinese goods like raw silk, tea, timber, straw mat and bristle.
時任粵海關稅務司的杜德維及家人位於沙面的住所，攝於1893年。圖片來源：布裡斯託大學中國老照片項目 House of Imperial Maritime Customs Service Commissioner Edward Bangs Drew and family, Shamian Island,1893, Image courtesy of Drew, Edward Bangs collection, Harvard-Yenching Library, USA and Historical Photographs of China, University of Bristol (www.hpcbristol.net)
西方國家不但將軍火賣給軍閥，而且也賣給「大天二」（土匪），因此，在軍閥混戰、盜匪如毛的舊中國，外國軍火竟成為一種經常性、長期性的大宗進口物資。
Some westerners even sold munitions to warlords and bandits to maximize their profit without bottom line, making foreign munitions a sort of "regular" imported bulk cargoes.
廣州西餐的搖籃
Cradle of western cuisine in
Guangzhou
在廣州的飲食業上，沙面也有其獨特的位置：它是西餐在廣州的發源地。很多人都知道，太平館是中國人開的第一家西餐館，而它的創始人徐老高，原本就在沙面旗昌洋行當廚師，並因此學會了西菜烹調技術。
Apart from inflows and outflows of goods, Shamian also witnessed the debut of western cuisine in Guangzhou. Xu Laogao, the first Chinese to own a western-style restaurant in Guangzhou, got his cooking skills regarding western food from his experience as a chef in Russell & Co. located in Shamian.
根據上世紀初《時事畫報》的圖文報導，西式餐飲已成為上流社會追逐的時尚。According to Shishi huabao (Illustrated News of Current Affairs) in the early 20th century, western-style cuisine had become a trend of the upper class.
到上世紀30年代，沙面的西餐業一枝獨秀，匯聚了東橋、玫瑰、經濟、域多利等多家西餐廳，這種密度在當年是很罕見的。在西餐中，牛扒算是低檔菜，葡國雞則算高檔菜。顧客大多是沙面的洋人和洋行買辦、職員。
The 1930s had seen western-style restaurants sprouting like mushrooms in Shamian, among which steak was considered low-grade while Portuguese chicken was deemed high-class. Most customers were foreigners, compradors and office clerks working in firms and institutions in Shamian.
1997年底，國務院將沙面列為國家級文物保護區，其中有53棟建築被列為全國重點文物保護單位；隨後，廣州市政府對沙面島上80多幢文物建築實行全面保護，重點修繕整理了其中10多幢。今天的沙面島，儼然已成為一座風景優美的西式建築大觀園，而當年的往事也並不如煙，隱匿於一座座西式樓房裡，等待人們去發現。
Shamian Island was listed as one of state protected historic areas in 1997, and fifty-three of its buildings were elected as key historical sites under state protection. Soon afterwards the municipal government of Guangzhou put some eighty buildings under full protection and repaired over ten of them in particular. The island is now a showplace occupied by western-style architectures which tell stories of olden days.
沙面，不是一個沒有故事的小島！A turbulent century for the Shameen Island in GZ
沙面有個外事博物館？Silk Road themed ex libris on display
Author:Liuliu
Editor:Yuan
Source:英國布裡斯託大學中國老照片項目(www.hpcbristol.net)、葉曙明《歷史現場》(The on-site history by Ye Shuming)、王雲泉《廣州租界地區的來龍去脈》(The context of the concession area in Guangzhou by Wang Yunquan)