原文譯文
*註：本文摘自年7月16日《英國衛報》
Vogue has a race problem
《Vogue》雜誌的種族問題
1. In the current climate filled with so much blacktrauma, there’s a special significance in the Vogue Challenge – a celebration of black beauty and black bodies. The concept is simple:reimaginingcelebrated Vogue covers with yourself in place of the model or the celebrity. The challenge, which began on TikTok in May, thenwent viralon Twitter and Instagram, producing hundreds of covers. The beauty andinventivenessof many of the covers wereundeniable– and made you think black beauty would never be celebrated like this on the cover of US Vogue. It alsounderlinedthe emptiness of US Vogue’s editor-in-chief Anna Wintour’s apology to black creatives: 「Vogue has not found enough ways to elevate and give space to black editors, writers, photographers, designers and other creators.」
在當前滿是黑人創傷的背景下，Vogue挑戰賽有著特殊意義，那就是讚美黑人的美麗和身體。挑戰賽的理念很簡單：自己上Vogue，重塑雜誌封面。這項挑戰於5月份在Tiktok上開始，後來風靡ins和twitter，現在已經有數百個雜誌封面了。許多封面的美感和創意不容置疑，黑人的美從沒有像現在這樣在美國在職封面得到如此的讚揚，這也突顯了美國版《Vogue》的主編安娜·溫圖爾(Anna Wintour)向黑人創意人士道歉的空洞之處：「Vogue」沒有找到足夠的方法來提升黑人編輯、作家、攝影師、設計師和其他創作者的地位, 也沒能給他們足夠的空間。」
2. The problem is that she has been the editor for three decades. If she really cared about black voices and understood systemic racism on a deeper level, she would have already made some changes to the system. She’s had enough time andwieldsenough power to change things. But perhaps herreluctancegoes deeper. 「I wanna say one thing: Dame Anna Wintour is a colonial broad,」 said her former colleague André Leon Talley on Sandra Bernhard’s show on SiriusXM. 「She’s a colonial dame. I do not think she will ever let anything get in the way of her white privilege.」 A recent New York Times article, meanwhile, speaks of how employees of colour 「faced ignorance and lazy stereotyping」 from white bosses around the subject of black culture.
問題是她當編輯已經30年了。如果她真的關注黑人的聲音，真的能從更深層次上理解系統性種族歧視的問題，她早就會做出一些改變。她有足夠的時間和力量來改變，但也許，她的不情願是更深層次的。她的前同事安德烈·萊昂·塔利在SiriusXM的桑德拉·伯恩哈德秀上說，「我想說一件事情：安娜·溫圖爾夫人是一個殖民注意主義的女性，她是支持殖民主義，我認為她不會讓任何事影響她的白人特權。」與此同時，《紐約時報》最新的一篇文章就黑人文化這一主題談到有色人種員工遭遇來自白人老闆的「無知和懶惰的刻板印象。」
3. The lack of evolved conversations around black and brown identity can bestarklyfelt around the fashion industry. Major brands are being called out for racism that is visible on the shop floor and systemic and coded. The experiences of PoC workers beingbelittledand ignored by white superiors (microaggressionsby any other name) were all too common in the testimonies of black and brown workers who spoke out amid the current racial reckoning.
在時尚界，人們可以明顯地感覺到，對黑人和棕色人種身份的討論是一成不變的。各大品牌的種族歧視現象在工廠隨處可見，而且這種歧視是系統且隱晦的。黑人和棕色人種在當前的種族清算中大聲疾呼，在他們的證詞中，PoC工人被白人上司貶低和忽視的經歷(以任何其他名義的微侵犯)都非常常見。
4. Wintour’s statement seems especially lacking in actual action when you consider the stats. The Puddingdid a deep dive intothe skin tone of US Vogue’s cover stars. One of its findings was that three out of 81 models were black between 2000 and 2005. It’s improved over time but the models that did appear on the cover generally had a lighter skin tone, adhering to the eurocentric beauty ideal.
從統計數據來看，溫圖爾的聲明似乎尤其缺乏實際行動。數據報導網站The Pudding深度研究了美國《Vogue》雜誌封面明星的膚色，發現2000年到2005年的81名模特中，只有三個是黑人。隨著時間的推移，情況有所改善，但是出現在封面上的模特通常膚色都比較淺，比較符合歐洲人的審美。
5. Beverly Johnson was US Vogue’s first black cover model, in 1974. 「[My agent] said, 『You’re on the cover.』 And I was like, 『Oh, the cover of what?』 She said the cover of Vogue magazine. I remember my heart was racing just like it is now,」 she told NPR in 2018.
貝弗利·詹森在1974年成為美國《Vogue》雜誌的第一位黑色封面模特。「2018年，她告訴美國國家公共電臺(NPR)記者，」(我的經紀人)說，『你上了封面。』我說，『哦，什麼封面?她說，《Vogue》雜誌的封面上。我記得當時我的心跳得很快，就像現在一樣。」
6. But even the joy of this was covered in another reality. The reality of the Token. The idea that there is only one model of colour who is allowed to be present at any one time (similarly, André Leon Talley is the only known black member of staff at US Vogue). As the former model Grace Jones wrote in herautobiographyI』ll Never Write My Memoirs, 「Beverly was one of the reasons I left the States. I knew that as long as she was in place she would get everything … One black model was all they needed and I would pick up thecrumbs… [Beverly] was the token black model. They didn’t need two tokens.」 Indeed, the next black model to appear on the cover of US Vogue wasn’t until three years later, in 1977, with Peggy Dillard. Fortysomething years later and Joan Smalls』 brilliant and searing testimony of racism in the fashion industry described the attitude towards her as 「the token black girl」.
但是，即使是這樣的換頁也被一個事實所掩蓋，那就是，黑人只是一種標誌（沒有種族歧視的標誌。）任何時候都只能有一個有色人種模特出現（同樣，安德烈·萊昂·塔利(Andre Leon Talley)是美國《Vogue》雜誌唯一一名黑人員工)。前模特格蕾絲·瓊斯在她的自傳《我永遠不會寫回憶錄》中寫道:「貝弗利是我離開美國的原因之一。我知道只要她還在位，她就會掌控一切，他們只是需要一名黑人模特，而我就是那個撿起麵包屑的人…貝弗利就是那個黑人標誌，他們不需要兩個標誌。事實上，直到三年後的1977年，佩吉 迪拉德(Peggy Dillard)才成為下一個登上美國《Vogue》雜誌封面的黑人模特。40多年後，瓊·斯莫斯(Joan Smalls)在證詞中稱，時裝界人士稱她是「黑人象徵。」
7. Thistokenisticapproach is extended to fashion brands』 approach to their responses post-George Floyd, which have been characterised by their surface nature, treating racial issues like another trend. 「The industry that profits from our black and brown bodies, our culture for constant inspiration, our music, and our images for their visuals have tiptoed around the issues. You’re part of the cycle thatperpetuatesthese conscious behaviours,」 said Smalls.
這種象徵主義反映在時尚界對弗洛伊德事件的反應上，他們將弗洛伊德事件示威另一種流行趨勢。斯莫斯說, 「時尚界從我們黑色和棕色的身體中獲利，從我們的文化中不斷尋求靈感，而在他們的雜誌中我們的音樂和形象都被小心翼翼地隱去，每個人都是這循環中的一部分，每個人都在促使這種有意識的行為長期存在。」
8. Denials of her departure notwithstanding, Wintour should be worried. Times are changing. Samira Nasr was just announced as the first editor of colour at Harper’s Bazaar since the magazine was founded in 1867, while British Vogue’s Edward Enninful has done amazing things with a radically race-conscious editorial agenda (Enninful posted selections of his favourites from the Vogue Challenge). 「The world is changing right before our very eyes,」 wrote the model Anok Yai in O magazine, 「and we won’t betolerantofintolerantany longer.」 Tokenism is so last season.
儘管溫圖爾否認自己存在種族歧視，但她應該感到擔憂。時代在改變。薩米拉·納斯爾(Samira Nasr)剛剛被宣布為《時尚芭莎》(Harper 's Bazaar)自1867年創刊以來的首位有色人種編輯，而英國《時尚》(Vogue)雜誌的愛德華·艾寧弗(Edward Enninful)在激進的種族意識編輯議程方面做出了令人驚嘆的事情(艾寧弗在《時尚》挑戰中發布了他最喜歡的作品)。「世界就在我們眼前改變，」模特Anok Yai在O雜誌上寫道，「我們再也不能容忍狹隘了。」在上一季中，象徵主義是過去了。
精讀解析
篇章結構
P1：Vogue雜誌主編的種族歧視問題。
P2—P3：時尚界的種族歧視隨處可見。
P4—P7：黑人模特只是沒有種族歧視的象徵。
P8：時代在改變，時尚界不能再有狹隘的種族主義。
重點單詞
trauma/'tr m / n. 外傷；創傷（由心理創傷造成精神上的異常）
【例句】
Counselling is helping him work through this trauma.
心理輔導正幫助他面對痛苦。
reimaginevt. 重新構想
【例句】
These teams are partnering with the government’s existing policy and technical experts to re-imagine the way we do business and deliver services that work better and cost less.
這些團隊參與改進現有政策，並與技術專家一起重新規劃我們開展業務的方式，改善服務，讓我們的工作更有效，成本更低。
go viral快速散播; 風靡
【例句】
How do you make something go viral?
你是如何讓一件事情 像病毒一樣迅速傳播的？
inventiveness/in'ventivnis/有發明創造能力;獨創性;獨創能力
【同根】
inventively adv. 有創造力地；率先的
inventive adj. 發明的；有發明才能的；獨出心裁的
【例句】
We have deep talents of inventiveness and exploration -- if we apply them.
我們有深刻的創造力和探索天賦——如果我們運用它們的話。
undeniable/ nd 'na b( )l/ adj. 無可爭辯的;不可否認的;確定無疑的；確實優秀的；無懈可擊的
【例句】
First, he exposes in a bold way the real existence of American black people, including their undeniable racial identity, praise-worthy beauty and unescapable defects.
他們有著不可否認的種族身份，有著值得頌揚的美，也有著不容迴避的弱點。
underline/ nd 'la n/ vt. 在…下面畫線；加強, 強調
【例句】
In his speech he underlined several points.
他在講話中強調了幾點。
wield/wi ld/ vt. 揮舞；使用；行使
【短語】
wield power 行使權力
【例句】
They wield enormous political power.
他們行使巨大的政治權力。
reluctance/r 'l kt( )ns/ n. 不願意；勉強
【例句】
The police released Andrew with reluctance.
警方勉強把安德魯放走了。
stereotype/'ster ( )ta p/ n. 老套, 模式化的見解, 有老一套固定想法的人vt. 把…模式化, 使成陳規
【短語】
sex stereotype 性別刻板印象
stereotyped image 刻板印象
【例句】
I hate to buy into stereotypes.
我厭惡墨守成規。
starkly/'sta:kli/ adv. 嚴酷地；明顯地；毫無掩飾地
【同根】
starkness n. 嚴厲；質樸無華；嚴酷；明顯
【短語】
stark naked 赤身露體，一絲不掛
【例句】
His actions were in stark contrast to his words.
他的行動同他說的話形成鮮明的對照。
belittle/b 'l t( )l/ vt. 輕視；貶低；使相形見小
【例句】
It is wrong to belittle or neglect popularization.
輕視和忽視普及工作的態度是錯誤的。
microaggressionn. 輕度冒犯，微歧視
【例句】
So is ghosting an example of microaggression? Well, microaggression is a noun.
那麼切斷聯繫是微歧視的一種表現嗎？" 微歧視" 是個名詞。
do a deep dive into深入研究
【例句】
Curious about how and whether the ratings game was a good thing or not, I did a deep dive into this world and quickly discovered many problems with the reputation economy.
無所不在的打分究竟是好事還是壞事？ 帶著這個問題，我深入研究了「打分界」，並且很快發現了所謂「口碑經濟」的很多問題。
adhere to堅持；粘附；擁護，追隨
【例句】
Most people adhere to the church of their parents.
多數人都依附於父母的教會。
eurocentric/ ju r u sentrik/ adj. 〈主英〉以歐洲為中心的,主要與歐洲(或歐洲人)有關的
【例句】
To have denied them would have risked consigning Mr Cameron's leadership to the hell of Eurocentric rowing and rebellion that dogged his predecessor, John Major.
拒絕這兩個選項，相當於冒險將卡梅倫的領導權交給可惡的疑歐派和對他的前任約翰·梅傑窮追不捨的黨內造反者。
autobiography/ t ba ' gr f / n. 自傳；自傳文學
【例句】
The series was based on the autobiographies of the author.
這部連續劇是根據那位作家的自傳拍攝的。
crumb/kr m/ n. 麵包屑，碎屑；少許vt. 弄碎；捏碎
【例句】
He dropped crumbs of cake all over the table.
他把蛋糕屑丟得滿桌都是。
tokenistic象徵性的；表面的
【例句】
Whether he can fix them is another question: the Conservatives' old, tokenistic plan for a tax break for married couples, discussed again this week, is unlikely to help.
但是他能不能解決它們又是另一回事了：保守黨曾有一個對已婚夫婦減免稅收的計劃，但早已年代久遠，而且只是做做樣子而已，這周卻被重新提出來討論，看樣子不像能幫上什麼忙。
tiptoe/'t pt / n. 腳尖；趾尖vi. 用腳尖走adv. 用腳尖adj. 踮著腳走的；偷偷摸摸的
【短語】
on tiptoe 用腳尖地；急切地；悄悄地
stand on tiptoe 足尖站立
【例句】
I stood tiptoe upon a little hill.
我踮著腳站在一座小山頂上。
perpetuate/p 'pet e t/ vt. 使永存;使人記住不忘
【短語】
self perpetuate 自生自存
perpetuating factor 維持因素
【例句】
Giving these events a lot of media coverage merely perpetuates the problem.
媒體大量地報導這些事件只會使問題持續下去。
tolerant/'t l( )r( )nt/ adj. 容忍的；寬容的；有耐藥力的
【短語】
be tolerant of 對...容忍（或寬容）
fault tolerant system 容錯系統
【例句】
Her father, an equable and genial man, is tolerant of her spirited stubbornness.
她的父親，一個平和可親的人，能容忍她倔強的脾氣。
intolerant/ n't l( )r( )nt/ adj. 無法忍受的；偏狹的
【例句】
They are deeply intolerant of all opposition.
他們對所有的反對意見都極為排斥。
- THE END -
堅持就會有收穫！