作者: 《英國老帽兒》之保羅·裡格比
翻譯:神秘北大團隊
圖片:英國老帽兒們(獨家版權)
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到訪英國,吃上一盤新鮮美味的英式早餐,是開始一天旅程的最好方式.保羅·裡格比感嘆道。
There’s no better way to start the day on a visit to Britain than this delicious collection of lovingly fried fresh food, says Paul Rigby…
隨便走進一家典型的英式咖啡廳,你都會在菜單的顯眼位置上看到「全套英式早餐」這道菜。住在英國的酒店裡,吃其自帶早餐時,同樣會有這道菜。打開雜誌或是在電視頻道上翻看一下,也總能見到某人在某地,大模大樣地享受英式早餐!
Walk into a typical British cafe, and somewhere near the top of the menu you will find the 『full English breakfast』. Stay at a British hotel and, when you sit down to eat in the morning, there it will be again. Open up a magazine or switch on the television, and someone, somewhere, will be greedily tucking into one!
英國北方管這道菜叫「fry up」,南邊一般都叫「full English」,但無論你怎麼稱呼它,它都是一如既往地美味、便宜且易於烹飪。吃時再配上一杯大家所說的「棕色的喜悅(a cup of brown joy)」(其實就是英國奶茶),你便有了所需的一切能量來源。嗯.至少是午餐以前一切能量的來源。
In the north, they call it a 『fry up』 while down south it’s a more usually a 『full English』, but whatever you call it, it’s delicious, and cheap and easy to cook. Taken with what some call 『a cup of brown joy』 (a cup of tea), and you have everything you need to power you through the day. Well, at least until lunchtime!
和灰色的天空、綠色的草地、溫熱的啤酒一樣,全套英式早餐是英國生活中不可或缺的一部分——它激勵著全體英國人民早起下床。確實,這道菜唯一不完美的地方是它的名字:「全套英式早餐」,因為「早餐」在其它時間就吃不成呀——於是最近,這道菜被巧妙地重新冠名為「全天候早餐」。
Like grey skies, green grass and warm beer, the full English breakfast is an integral part of British life – it inspires the nation to get out of bed. Indeed, the only thing wrong with the 『full English breakfast』 is that, being a breakfast, you can’t eat it all day – so recently it has been ingeniously renamed 『all day breakfast』.
文雅的法國鄰居喜歡把菜擺成藝術品,但在英國,人們更喜歡把所有好吃的盛進一個大盤子裡,以方便我們一氣呵成進食的節奏。煎培根和煎雞蛋是必不可少的;如果你的「全套英式早餐」裡沒有這兩樣,那你肯定是上當了!香腸也很重要——沒有香腸的早餐只配叫做「培根煎雞蛋」。但要想真正贏得「全套」的美譽,這道早餐需要的東西還有很多.
Our cultured French neighbours arrange their dishes in an artistic way, but the British prefer simply to throw everything onto a large plate, to facilitate the process of speedy eating. Fried bacon and fried eggs are essential; if your 『full English』 comes without either of these then it’s an imposter and a fraud! Sausages are important too – without these it isn’t a 『full English』, just 『bacon and eggs』. But to really earn the 『full』 accolade, your first meal of the day needs to come with an array of extras…
培根、雞蛋、香腸自不必說,但除這些之外,你還要配上烤豆子、黑布丁、煎西紅柿和煎蘑菇、兩片烤麵包,外加一些番茄醬和英國棕醬(HP sauce)——超級內行食客還要灑上幾滴辣醬油(Worcester Sauce)。把所有這些都吃完, 保你撐得肚子滾圓。
The bacon, eggs and sausages must be right, but only when baked beans, black pudding, fried tomatoes and mushrooms are also included does it truly pass the taste test. You』ll also want a couple of slices of toast with that too, and a dash of tomato ketchup, HP sauce or – if you’re a connoisseur – a few splashes of Worcester Sauce. After you have eaten your way through all of this, then it is not the breakfast that will be full, but you!
還有一些對早餐態度極為認真的人,他們會在上述材料的基礎上添加更多的東西。在維多利亞時代,曾出現在早餐中的菜品包括豬臉、烤大比目魚和山雞腿等山珍海味。有些地方早餐還加入了當地風味:蘇格蘭人會加入肉餡羊肚(haggis:羊或牛內臟做的鹹味特色布丁)一起吃,而威爾斯人會加入花蛤。
Those who really take their 『fry ups』 seriously will add even more. In Victorian times, you could find delicacies such as pig’s cheek, baked halibut steaks and pheasant legs on the plate. Then there are plenty of regional variations; you may see haggis (a savoury pudding featuring the offal from a sheep or calf) in Scotland, while in Wales they might add cockles.
烹調「英式早餐」需要一口大而淺的平底煎鍋。油品的選用也是有講究的;我們的主編喜歡用特級初榨橄欖油,椰子油的效果也不錯。若預算有限可以買普通食用油,能省個幾便士。食物出鍋時,最好先在廚房用的吸水餐巾紙上放一會兒,以便漓掉多餘的油脂。
Cooking the 『full English』 is done in a large, shallow, flat bottomed frying pan. The choice of cooking oil counts for a lot; your editor prefers extra virgin olive oil, although coconut oil is also superb. Those on a budget can simply buy standard 『cooking oil』, and save a few pennies. When the food comes out of the frying pan, it’s a good idea to place it on absorbent kitchen roll for a minute or so, to let most of the oil drain away.
19世紀上半葉,維多利亞時代的人把早餐升級成了一天中的重要日程,但追根溯源,全套英式早餐的歷史比這還要早五百年。那時富有的紳士們喜歡在鄉間豪宅中炫耀自家高質量的農產品和肉產品,因此他們非常重視早餐。在英國幾乎任何事情都有自己的協會,這個一天中最重要的一餐也不例外。詳情請見「英式早餐協會」網站:www.englishbreakfastsociety.com
It was the Victorians who turned breakfast into an important time of the day in the early nineteenth century, but its roots go back another five hundred years. Rich gentlemen living in huge country houses used to show off the quality of their meats and agricultural produce – and they took breakfasting very seriously. Almost everything in Britain has its own society, and the most important meal of the day is no exception. Check out www.englishbreakfastsociety.com to learn more.
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