翻譯本文是為國內葡萄酒愛好者對LuisPato的理解提供多一個視角，如因本人水平有限致有不足之處，敬請各位不吝批評指正。
原文連結： https://www.nytimes.com/2014/06/11/dining/tasting-portuguese-white-wines.html?hpw&rref=dining&_r=3
Staying True to Native Grapes
忠於本土品種
By Eric Asimov
June 5, 2014
Of all the historical wine-producing countries, Portugal is the most overlooked.
在所有歷史上的葡萄酒產酒國中，葡萄牙是最被忽視的。
Other countries mostly unrecognized for their wines 25 years ago have been welcomed to the globalized wine economy: Greece, Austria, a re-energized Hungary. France and Italy have always held attention, but little-known regions within both countries have emerged, to acclaim. Same with Spain.
其他一些25年前還未被認可的葡萄酒國家也受到了全球化葡萄酒經濟的歡迎：希臘、奧地利、重新煥發活力的匈牙利。法國和義大利一直備受關注，且兩國內部鮮為人知的地區卻層出不窮，讚不絕口。西班牙也一樣。
But Portugal? Port will always have its niche, and so will Madeira, but when it comes to nonfortified wine, Portugal continues to be largely ignored, and often unfairly.
但是葡萄牙呢？波特和馬德拉都會有自己的市場，但當談到非加強型葡萄酒時，葡萄牙在很大程度上仍然被忽視，而且往往是不公平的。
This is partly because the Portuguese, to their great credit, have largely refused to emphasize popular international grapes like cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, merlot and sauvignon blanc at the expense of their myriad indigenous offerings.
這在一定程度上是因為葡萄牙人，值得讚揚的是，他們拒絕重視受歡迎的國際葡萄品種，如赤霞珠、霞多麗、梅洛和長相思，不想以犧牲大量的本土品種為。
Such internationalization, sadly, was once a proven formula for gaining worldwide attention. But the focus has shifted to what is distinctively local, and thankfully, American wine drinkers may have gotten past the point of being drawn in by some 100-point cabernet from Portugal.
可悲的是，這種國際化曾經是獲得世界關注的一個行之有效的公式。不過，人們的注意力已經轉移到了具有地方特色的地方，值得慶幸的是，美國的葡萄酒飲用者可能已經不會再被來自葡萄牙的100分赤霞珠所吸引。
It may also be that the Portuguese language poses something of an obstacle for Americans, who may intuitively understand that, say, Italy’s bianco and Spain’s blanco are white wines, but may not make the same linguistic leap when confronted with branco, the Portuguese term for white. Frequently, the response when confronted with such unfamiliar terms is to move on to something more recognizable.
這也可能是葡萄牙語給美國人造成了某種障礙，美國人可能憑直覺理解，比如義大利的比安科（bianco）和西班牙的布蘭科（blanco）都是白葡萄酒，但在面對葡萄牙語中的白葡萄酒（branco）時，他們可能不會做出同樣的語言飛躍（反應）。通常，當遇到這些不熟悉的術語時，他們的反應是轉向更容易識別的東西。
In two exceptions, Portuguese wine has captured the imagination, but they are specialized cases. The first is Vinho Verde, the inexpensive, zesty white from northwestern Portugal, which seems to have hooked into the hot-weather zeitgeist and has sold fairly well in the United States in the last few years. But it’s a rather innocuous pleasure, thought of mostly as a summer refresher.
有兩個例外，葡萄牙酒吸引了人們的想像力，但它們都是特例。第一個是Vinho Verde，一種來自葡萄牙西北部的價格便宜、柑橘類水果香氣的白葡萄酒，它似乎已經融入了炎熱天氣的思潮，並且在過去幾年裡在美國的銷量相當不錯。但這是一種相當無害的快樂，主要被認為是一種夏日的清新提神酒品。
The second is Colares, one of the world’s more fascinating wines but made only in minute quantities. The vines grow in sandy soils and thus are immune to phylloxera, the ravenous aphid that eats through the roots of the classic European grapevines, requiring almost all vines to be grafted onto American rootstocks. Instead, the Colares vines can grow on their own roots. These are truly wonderful wines, graceful yet intense with the potential to age for decades. But the vineyards have fought a losing battle for land with the suburbs of Lisbon, and may soon face extinction.
第二個是Colares，世界上最讓人著迷的葡萄酒之一，但產量很小。葡萄藤生長在沙質土壤中，因此對根瘤蚜蟲免疫，根瘤蚜蟲是一種貪婪的蚜蟲，吞噬歐洲老葡萄藤的根部，讓幾乎所有的葡萄藤都要嫁接到美洲葡萄藤根上。相反，Colares葡萄藤可以在自己的根上生長（保留了歐洲根，不需要嫁接到美洲根上）。這些葡萄酒真的超棒，優雅而濃鬱，有幾十年的陳年潛力。但是這些葡萄園與裡斯本郊區的土地爭奪戰已經失敗，可能很快就會面臨滅絕。
No. 1 and Best Value: Luís Pato Beira Atlântico Maria Gomes 2012
Credit...Tony Cenicola/The New York Times
第一名和最佳性價比：Luís Pato Beira Atlântico Maria Gomes 2012
The wine panel has not ignored Portugal. We』ve paid regular of infrequent visits to its red wines, most recently in 2012 to the reds of the Douro, the historic port region. But it had never occurred to me to hold a tasting of Portuguese whites. Without really thinking about it, such a tasting did not strike me as that interesting.
葡萄酒專家組並沒有忽視葡萄牙。我們也定期去參觀葡萄牙品鑑葡萄牙紅葡萄酒，最近一次是在2012年參觀歷史悠久的港口地區杜羅的紅葡萄酒。但我從來沒有想過要品鑑葡萄牙白葡萄酒。沒有仔細想過，就覺得這樣的品鑑對我不是那麼有趣。
I changed my mind after Matt Kramer, a columnist for Wine Spectator, gushed about some whites he had encountered in Portugal. One, he wrote, he might have mistaken for a Chassagne-Montrachet if he had tasted it blind; an error, he pointed out, that would have been 「hardly a slur upon a wine’s character.」
《葡萄酒觀察家》的專欄作家馬特·克萊默（Matt Kramer）滔滔不絕地講述了他在葡萄牙品鑑過的一些白葡萄酒之後，我改變了主意。其中一款，他寫道，如果是盲品的話，他可能會誤認為是 Chassagne-Montrachet的酒；他指出，這個錯誤「很難成為葡萄酒品質的汙點。」
I had heard a few other recent rhapsodies upon the quality of Portuguese whites, and concluded that they were well worth investigating. So the panel gathered to sample 20 from recent vintages, hoping for a few of our own bolts of enlightenment.
我最近還聽到了一些對葡萄牙白葡萄酒質量讚不絕口的評論，得出結論它們非常值得研究。因此，專家組收集了20支最近一些年份的樣品，希望能從中得到一些啟示。
For the tasting, Florence Fabricant and I were joined by Pascaline Lepeltier, the wine director at Rouge Tomate and a newly minted master sommelier, who had recently traveled to Portugal, and Todd Wernstrom, a wine distributor whose company, Ice Bucket Selections, does not deal in Portuguese wines.
這場品鑑會，參與的人有Florence Fabricant和我，有Pascaline Lepeltier，他是Rouge Tomate的葡萄酒總監，一位新晉的master sommelier，最近剛去過葡萄牙；還有一位葡萄酒經銷商Todd Wernstrom，他的公司Ice Bucket Selections不經營葡萄牙酒。
I can’t say that any of us felt the thrill of a discovery, though I found the wines pleasing and intriguing. As is often the case with Portuguese reds, all the whites were made from indigenous Portuguese grapes, yet none struck us as especially distinctive in the way that carricante seems unique to Mount Etna or furmint to Hungary. Quite a few of the wines were made in the modern fashion, fermented in steel tanks and bottled young to preserve freshness and aromas.
我不能說我們每個人都感受到了探索的興奮，儘管我個人發現這些葡萄酒令人愉悅且有趣。像葡萄牙紅葡萄酒的常見情況一樣，所有的白葡萄酒都是由葡萄牙本土葡萄釀製的，但對我們來說沒有一種葡萄酒讓我們感覺到像是carricante對Mount Etna的或者furmint對匈牙利那樣與眾不同。這20支中相當多的酒款都是以現代的方式釀造的：不鏽鋼罐中發酵，年輕時裝瓶以保持新鮮和香氣。
Our No. 1 bottle, the 2012 Luís Pato from the Beira Atlântico region, was in this style. It was made primarily of the Maria Gomes grape, Portugal’s most common white grape, also known as fernão pires. It was tangy and delicious, spicy, herbal and intended for early drinking. At just $13, it was our best value. You could go through a lot of this wine in the summer.
我們的第一名，來自Beira Atlântico地區的2012年Luís Pato就是這種風格。它主要由Maria Gomes釀造，是葡萄牙最常見的白葡萄品種，也被稱為fernão pires。它濃鬱可口，香辛料、草本植物的味道，適合早期飲用。只需要13美元，這是我們的最佳性價比。夏天可以喝很多這種酒。
Other wines saw time in barrels and were more capable of aging, like our No. 3 bottle, the 2012 branco from Quinta de Foz de Arouce, which happened to be the wine that caught Mr. Kramer’s imagination, though it was the 2010, with a couple more years of age, that moved him to the Burgundy comparison.
其他的葡萄酒可以看到過桶過一段時間，有陳年能力，像我們的第三名，來自Quinta de Foz de Arouce，2012年份的白葡萄酒，這瓶酒吸引了克萊默的想像力，儘管是2012年份，再多幾年陳年之後，會讓他拿來和勃艮第做比較。
No. 2: Quinta do Sagrado Douro 2012
Credit...Tony Cenicola/The New York Times
第二名：Quinta do Sagrado Douro 2012
The 』12, made entirely from the cerceal grape (not related to sercial, a constituent in Madeira), was lively with complex fruit and herbal flavors and the sort of inviting texture that comes from barrel aging — mostly old barrels, which did not impart flavors. I look forward to drinking this wine in a few years. It was also one of the more expensive in the tasting at $37.
這款2012年的酒由100% cerceal葡萄釀造而成（與馬德拉島的sercial無關），充滿活力，有著複雜水果和草本植物的味道，以及桶陳帶來的誘人質感——極可能是舊桶，沒有賦予很多桶味。我期待幾年後喝這支酒。這也是品鑑酒款中最貴的一款，售價37美元。
Other noteworthy wines included the No. 2 bottle, the rich, fleshy 2012 Quinta do Sagrado from the Douro, a blend of four grapes fermented in steel tanks; the No. 4 2012 Vadio from Bairrada in the Atlantic midsection, a somewhat rustic, pleasantly bitter wine; and the No. 5, a refreshing 2012 Casa de Mouraz from the Dão, inland from Bairrada, made entirely of the encruzado grape.
其他值得一提的葡萄酒包括第二名，來自杜羅的豐富的、肉質的2012年份Quinta do Sagrado，四種葡萄混釀，不鏽鋼罐中發酵；來自大西洋中部Bairrada第四名2012年份的 Vadio，一支略帶鄉村氣息、令人愉悅的苦味葡萄酒；第五名，來自Dão的2012年份Casa de Mouraz，來自Bairrada內陸，完全由encruzado葡萄釀造而成。
I would not presume to offer definitive conclusions after this tasting, other than these wines absolutely bear further research. I have no doubt they will reward deeper dives, particularly into the more promising regions for whites, which seem to be the coastal areas of Bairrada and Beira Atlântico, and the Douro.
這次品鑑後我不想給出明確的結論，除此之外，這些酒絕對值得進一步研究。我毫不懷疑葡萄牙白葡萄酒值得更多精力投入，尤其是對那些白葡萄酒更有前途的地區，看來就是Bairrada和Beira Atlântico的沿海地區，還有杜羅河谷。
I can say that if you like mainstream Italian whites, many of the less expensive bottles in this tasting will offer a similar sense of dry, fruity refreshment. If you like more-complex sorts of wine, like, dare I say, white Burgundy, then a barrel-aged bottle like the Foz de Arouce may prove intriguing.
我可以說如果你喜歡主流義大利白葡萄酒，這場品鑑中的一些不貴的酒款也可以給到相似的幹型、果味清爽提神的感覺。如果你喜歡更複雜類型的酒，比如，我說一個，勃艮第白葡萄酒，那麼一款桶陳的像Foz de Arouce的一支酒會確實很有趣。
It’s fair to say that the Portuguese wine industry is well along in its transition to focusing on wines that can be marketed around the world. What that means for its white wines is still in the process of shaking out.
可以說，葡萄牙葡萄酒產業正朝著專注於能在世界各地銷售的葡萄酒轉型。這對它的白葡萄酒意味著什麼仍在有待發現的過程中。
Tasting Report 品鑑報告
BEST VALUE 最佳性價比
Luís Pato Beira Atlântico Maria Gomes 2012 ** ½
Tangy citrus flavors, with accents of herbs and spices and an inviting texture.
$13 (Wine-in-Motion, Union, N.J.)
Quinta do Sagrado Douro 2012 ** ½
Rich and fleshy, with flavors of apricot, peach and melon.
$16 (Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y.)
No. 3: Quinta de Foz de Arouce Vinho Regional Beiras Branco 2012
Credit...Tony Cenicola/The New York Times
Quinta de Foz de Arouce Vinho Regional Beiras Branco 2012 ** ½
Lively and textured, with lingering flavors of melon, citrus and herbs.
$37 (Winebow, New York)
Vadio Bairrada 2012 ** ½
Pleasantly rustic, with lingering flavors of citrus, herbs and tropical fruit with a slight bitterness.
$17 (Langdon-Shiverick, Los Angeles)
Casa de Mouraz Dao Encruzado 2012 ** ½
Refreshing though not complex, with zesty citrus flavors.
$17 (Savio Soares Selections, Brooklyn)
Niepoort Douro Redoma 2012 **
Not particularly aromatic, but juicy, succulent and texturally pleasing.
$28 (Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.)
Quinta do Perdigao Dão Encruzado 2011 **
Tangy, with an intriguing quality of bitterness.
$20 (NLC Wines, Brooklyn)
Alvaro Castro Dão Encruzado DAC 2011 **
Balanced, with flavors of tropical fruits.
$25 (Obrigado Vinhos Portugal, Sausalito, Calif.)
Duorum Douro Tons 2012 **
Light, pleasant and refreshing.
$13 (Winebow, New York)
Quinta do Passadouro Douro Passa 2011 **
Aromas and flavors of herbs, spices and melon.
$15 (Winebow, New York)
What the stars mean: Ratings, up to four stars, reflect the panel’s reaction to the wines, which were tasted with names and vintages concealed. The wines represent a selection generally available in good retail shops and restaurants and on the Internet. Prices are those paid in the New York region.
星號的含義：評級，最高四顆星，反映了評審團對葡萄酒的反饋，品鑑時酒名和年份都被遮住。這些酒是精選自(紐約)好的葡萄酒零售店、餐廳和網際網路。價格是在紐約地區支付的價格。
Tasting coordinator品鑑協調者: Bernard Kirsch
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