幾年前翻譯的文章,呵呵,當練英語了,英漢對照,如有誤譯,歡迎指正。
現在喜歡抱石的朋友越來越多,因抱石而受傷的朋友也不少.找來
Safe hands — how to give better bouldering spots
安全之手--如何提供更好的抱石保護
By Dave Pegg(Climbing Magazine,No207, Nov 1, 2001, P.92, )
The worst spot I ever had was at Hueco Tanks, Texas. One moment I was near the top of Best of the West pawing at two miserable slopers; the next I was hurtling backward toward the ground. To his credit, my spotter didn't flinch. In fact, he didn't move -- an inch. I hit him like an express train and pancaked him into the ground. We both ended up flat on our backs, me badly winded, him bruised and shaken.
我碰到過最差勁的抱石確保,發生在德克薩斯的Hueco Tanks.前一刻我的雙手還扒在兩個痛苦的磨擦點上,接近Best of the West線路的頂端;而下一秒,我的背部猛烈地撞到地上.我的確保者對他的」功勞」絲毫不感到愧疚.事實上,他連一英寸都沒有移動.我象高速列車一樣把他撞倒在地.最後,我倆都躺在地上,我幾乎喘不過氣來,他則鼻青臉腫,不停地顫抖.
Good spotting is as important as good belaying. Yet, although we all go through the motions, surprisingly few boulderers give sufficient thought or attention to spotting -- or even know how to do it properly. As I learned at Hueco, a clueless spotter, no matter how courageous, is no substitute for one with good technique.
好的抱石確保同攀巖確保一樣,都是非常重要的.儘管我們都曾經為別人確保, 但是能在確保過程中投以充分的注意和關心,甚至是知道如何正確進行抱石確保的抱石者,卻少得令人驚訝.我在Hueco得到的教訓是:一個無知的抱石確保者,無論多麼熱忱勇敢,也絕對無法取代一個經驗豐富的確保者.
Bad spotting often stems from a misconception of what spotting is. Spotters don't have to "CATch" falling boulderers. Instead their aim is to steer them onto a safe landing site, ensure they land feet first, and, if possible, slow them down a bit, taking some of the sting out of the fall.
不良的抱石確保往往源於對確保的誤解.實際上確保者不需要「接住」脫落的抱石者,而是將他們導向一個安全的落點,確保抱石者是腳先著地;同時,儘可能減緩他們墜落速度,以減輕墜落帶來的傷害.
The first step to good spotting is standing correctly. Position yourself a foot or so behind the likely point of impact, moving as the boulderer moves. Your knees and elbows should be slightly bent to absorb the shock of a fall; your palms should be open with the fingers extended -- bent, jammed digits are a common spotting injury. Resist the temptation to watch the boulderer's hands; focus on the area of the boulderer's hips or back where you intend to apply the spot.
良好抱石確保的第一步是站在正確的位置.站在可能的脫落位置之後一步左右,隨著抱石者移動.略微地彎曲你的膝部和肘部,並張開手掌,用來吸收墜落帶來的衝擊;確保的時候要注意防止手指挫傷.別老是盯著抱石者的手部,把注意力放在抱石者的臀部或是背部,以隨時提供必要的保護.
Fork lift. When spotting steep, medium-height problems, aim to grab the boulderer on both sides of the upper back, just below the armpits. This will tip him upright. Keep your outstretched hands as close to the boulderer's back as possible so he has little time to accelerate if he falls (figure 1).
Fork lift (叉車式)
當你確保的是較為陡峭、中等高度的線路時,瞄準抱石者背部上方的兩側,大約是腋下的地方.這樣可以保證抱石者在脫落時身體保持豎直.伸出的雙手儘量靠近抱石者的背部,使其脫落時的加速度減到最小.(圖一)
圖一
Cradle spot. On low, steep problems you won't be able to get below the boulderer to apply a fork lift. Instead, stand or squat to one side of the boulderer and hold your arms slightly bent a couple of inches beneath her upper back, ready to cradle it in the crook of your elbows should she fall (figure 2).
Cradle spot(託盤式)
對於位置低而陡的抱石線路,你無法為抱石者提供叉車式的確保的時候.你應該站在或蹲在抱石者的一側,將你的手臂略微彎曲,置於抱石者上背部下方幾英寸處,以隨時準備用你的臂彎來託住她.(圖二)
圖二
Hip spot. This spot is used on higher and less-steep problems where the boulderer is likely to fall feet first. Track her hips with your outstretched hands, again keeping them as close as possible. In the EVENT of a fall, grab the hips and steer the boulderer to a safe landing zone (figure 3).
Hip spot(託臀式)
這種方式的確保是用在比較高,不太陡、抱石者有可能腳先著地的線路上.伸出雙手,儘可能貼近抱石者的臀部,並且隨之移動.如果抱石者脫落,扶住其臀部並引導他在安全的區域著地(圖三).
圖三
A good spotter, well versed in these techniques, can give you the confidence to pull that dicey upside-down move, big dyno, or airy, highball topout. Your spotter can't, however, eliminate the dangers of bouldering. Remember, whenever you take a nasty fall you're not only putting yourself at risk, you're endangering him too. Be considerate, discuss the problem and potential dangers with your spotter -- and know when to back off.
作為一位優秀的確保者,必須精熟以上的抱石確保技巧,才能使抱石者放心地嘗試冒險的頭衝下、大動態 、飛躍等危險動作.然而,你的確保者也不可能消除抱石的危險性.記住,無論何時,只要你發生嚴重的墜落,不只是自己在冒險,也會危及你的確保者.務必謹慎小心,與你的確保者分析每條抱石路線和可能的危險性,並知道何時該放棄.