位於英國倫敦市中心上流住宅區的Pimlico Road的HUNAN(湖南)中餐廳,多次入選消費者評選的倫敦10大最受歡迎餐廳的名單上,而且一度排名至前三。HUNAN(湖南)中餐廳已有30多年歷史,許多社會名流包括英國皇室和電影明星都慕名光臨。
(圖片來自網絡)
這家以用心和真誠打造自己品牌的HUNAN餐廳,最吸引人的是甄選來自全球各個產區及國家的佳釀入其酒單,來自中國山西怡園酒莊的珍藏赤霞珠(Tasya's Reserve)也赫然出現在其酒單之列。
2018年5月4日,國際權威酒業媒體《The Drinks Business》(中譯《酒飲商務》)解密了HUNAN餐廳的最新酒單:
NEW ON WINE LIST CONFIDENTIAL: HUNAN
解密新酒單:HUNAN餐廳
2018年5月4日,Douglas Blyde報導
除了一份多達20道菜的驚豔菜單,主廚彭永雙先生在Pimlico街開了很久的HUNAN餐廳裡很自豪地推出了精彩的酒單, 它被準確地標榜為「以公平價格出售的精品葡萄酒」,搭配臺灣中部的菜餚。HUNAN餐廳由彭永雙的兒子Michael經營管理,常可以在倫敦的品酒會看到他,他也會經常出現在HUNAN餐廳。
(圖片來自網絡)
餐廳有一個慣例,葡萄酒大多是以半瓶出售,而不是按杯,實際上只有兩款酒是按杯出售的。顧客在點半瓶酒的時候,會很期待一些很有意思的組合,很可能包含「自然」處理的曼薩尼亞幹型雪莉酒(來自有名酒商Equipo Navazos),沙龍帝皇桃紅香檳,瑪德瑪嘉薩酒莊葡萄酒,約瑟費葡英絲妮亞紅葡萄酒和奧納亞酒莊紅葡萄酒。
酒單的歸類有非常詳細的解釋。比如「奇特酒款」有來自南非的灌木形藤白詩南,或者來自中國山西怡園酒莊的珍藏赤霞珠。「瓶中發酵」有非常特色的來自肯特吉斯本酒莊的黑中白,尼丁博酒莊的半乾和路易王妃香檳的稀有酒款。「風土酒」是真正「體現產地」的葡萄酒,如來自義大利威尼託清新的經典蘇瓦韋,和來自澳大利亞克萊爾的格羅斯春之谷雷司令。「地方感:神聖」來慶祝勃艮第白葡萄酒,……「用霞多麗葡萄酒來詮釋當地特色」。
(怡園珍藏赤霞珠乾紅葡萄酒)
「尊貴的波爾多」是世界上最大葡萄酒產區的一封情書,星光閃閃的木桐和白馬酒莊年份排到了1960年代;「黑比諾的熱情--勃艮第和它的另一半」,這給無私葡萄的守護者搭了便車,比如來自澳大利亞吉朗的萊斯橋酒莊米耶塔黑比諾乾紅葡萄酒,它的釀酒師Ray Nadeson之前是神經系統科學家,可能是大家在狂找科多爾風土的時候一起發現米耶塔黑比諾的。還有很有名的「羅納河和它的仰慕者」部分,以查爾斯莫頓九教皇紅葡萄酒為主。「義大利的真諦」,由來自奧萊娜小島酒莊的經典基安蒂來展示,以及用20年來熟成的米尼酒莊的卡爾瓦裡。
「貴腐和完美的甜酒」,有競爭上榜的薩丁島用佳麗釀葡萄釀的帕西託,以及滴金酒莊。還有很值得思考的清酒系列。
在HUNAN餐廳吃飯的時候,看到彭永雙廚師長的廚房團隊會根據大家對辣的喜歡程度和不吃的配菜(希望沒有)來做菜,招牌菜有豐盛的香菇生薑瘦肉羹,辣椒冬筍炒牛蛙腿,蒜香黃豆。好吃到爆。
Alongside the surprise menu which can run to 20 courses, Chef Peng’s long established Pimlico dining room boasts a brilliant drinks list, accurately billed as 『fine wine at a fair price』 to accompany the Taiwanese centric dishes. This is maintained by son, Michael – who is as familiar a face at London’s trade tastings as he is to regular diners at Hunan.
One idiosyncrasy which works well is the emphasis on half-bottles rather than wines by the glass – indeed just two wines are offered in the latter format. Expect a substantial collection when ordering a swift half, therefore(!) which may include Manzanilla En Rama 『I Think』 (Equipo Navazos), Billecart-Salmon Rosé Champagne, Mas de Daumas Gassac, Joseph Phelps』 Insignia, and Ornellaia.
The well explained list is arranged in compelling categories. 『Special Odd Bottles』 may include bush vine Chenin Blanc from South Africa (Intellego), or Cabernet Sauvignon 『Tasya’s Reserve』 from Shanxi’s Grace Vineyards (China). 『Bottle Fermentation』, meanwhile, could feature a Blanc de Noirs from Kent’s Gusbourne, Nyetimber Demi-Sec and rare renditions of Cristal. 『Stone into Wine』 is all about wines 『truly reflecting origin』, and is parasol to the likes of pristine Soave Classico from Pieropan (Veneto) and Grosset’s brilliantly acutely focused Springvale Riesling from Australia’s Clare Valley. 『A Sense of Place: Sacred sites』 celebrates white Burgundy, 『…the Chardonnay grape translating the site’s characteristics into wine.』
『Bordeaux Nobility』 is a love letter to the world’s largest fine wine region, ranging back to the 1960s with starry bottles from Mouton and Cheval Blanc, while 『Pinot Noir Passion – Burgundy and its Counterparts』 gives lift to the best caretakers of the far from selfless grape, and here wines such as 『Mietta』 by former neuroscientist, Ray Nadeson of Lethbridge (Geelong, Australia) may be discovered alongside those punching through the terroir of the Côte d』Or (e.g. Armand Rosseau). Also of note is the 『Rhône and its admirers』 section, featuring a Rhône ranger by Charles Melton (Nine Popes), and 『The Essence of Italy』, showcasing Chianti Classico by Isole e Olena, to, two decades into maturity, Enzo Pontoni’s Calvari Miani…
『Noble Rot and Luscious Sweet』 includes a passito Carignan from Sardinia which jostles on the list, Château d』Yquem. Also worth considering is the sake selection.
Although the experience of dining at Hunan sees Peng’s kitchen team decide the culinary narrative, with only your preferences of chilli heat level and ingredient intolerances (hopefully none) taken into account, signature dishes which could reach the table include hearty broth of minced pork, Chinese mushroom and ginger, crispy frogs』 legs served with fermented bamboo shoots and chilli, and crispy garlic beans.Surrender to the sapidity.