科普貼圓豬豬關於法式馬卡龍的答疑解惑

A Macaron Troubleshooting Guide: Useful Tips and Advice to Master the French Delicacy

馬卡龍製作要點指南：（法式）上集（一篇帖只能有一萬字）

原文來自這裡，作者將製作馬卡龍所需要注意的所有細節都提及了，非常佩服作者的嚴謹。圓豬豬的英文水平有限，請了@landaifang 藍帶坊的店主幫忙一同翻譯再發給大家參考。

http://foodnouveau.com/2011/12/destinations/europe/france/a-macaron-troubleshooting-guide-useful-tips-and-advice-to-master-the-french-delicacy/#perfect-macaron

大約兩年前我編寫了「如何製作馬卡龍」，至今仍然有許多人在我博客上詢問相關問題。在我回答了成千上百個讀者的「用什麼樣的工具？」「為什麼我的馬卡龍沒有裙邊」等等各種問題後。我想寫一篇更詳細的製作中的要點指南是勢在必行了。我收集了本人製作馬卡龍的經驗和閱讀了大量的相關馬卡龍的博客,文章，書籍（資料來源我有寫在文章底部）。我相信這篇博客將解答大部分新手關於馬卡龍的疑問。如果您讀過這篇文章，覺得我有遺漏什麼，請給我留言，我將隨時回答和更新。

Almost two years after being published, my illustrated 『How To Make Macarons』 post is still by far the most popular post on my blog. After answering to hundreds of readers posting all kinds of questions, from which equipment to use to why they can’t 「get feet」, I thought writing a troubleshooting guide was in order. I gathered all this info through macaron making experience and by reading dozens of articles, blog posts and books on the subject (sources are cited below when I quote from them). I believe this post will answer most (if not all!) questions macaron novices might have. If after reading this page you think I forgot something, please send me a line or write a comment below and I will edit my post to always keep it up-to-date.

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IMPORTANT NOTE: This troubleshooting guide is about the classic, French method of making macarons, which doesn’t involve an Italian meringue.

請注意：這個疑難要點指南是關於傳統的法式卡馬龍，而非意式馬卡龍。

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WHAT SHOULD A 『PERFECT MACARON』 LOOK LIKE?
Here’s a list of essential aesthetic traits:

· Shells should be perfectly round and show 『feet』 or a crown at their base

· Top of shells should be perfectly smooth

· Bottom of shells should be perfectly flat

· Shells should be shiny, and the choice of color should be assorted to the flavor

· Shells should all be of the same size

· The feet should not be larger than the top of the shell

· Filling should be visible and not be runny

Of course, very few macarons feature all of these standards at once. The list may sound daunting when the novice baker attempts to make macarons for the first time, but with patience and meticulousness, I believe the home cook can achieve results that rival macarons made by masters like Pierre Hermé or Ladurée.

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何為「完美」的馬卡龍？

以下是馬卡龍的基本審美特徵：

1. 殼要豐滿圓潤，底部出現裙邊。

2. 殼的頂部要非常的圓滑

3. 底部要足夠平坦。

4. 外殼要有光澤，選擇的色澤要和味道相匹配。

5. 殼的大小需要一致。

6. 裙邊不能大於外殼

7. 夾餡後可見填充內餡，內餡要成半固狀，不要流淌。

當然, 很少有馬卡龍能一下就滿足上面所有標準, 這個審美特徵可能會導致很多新手不敢去嘗試當他們開始製作馬卡龍的時候, 但是有足夠的耐心和謹慎,我相信家庭主婦們一樣可以做出很好的馬卡龍和大師Pierre Hermé or Ladurée 比一比的.

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About the Ingredients

關於材料

What size of egg whites should I use?
My recipes (and most macaron recipes, in general) use large egg whites.

我要用多少的蛋白？

我的配方（幾乎所有的法式配方）使用大個雞蛋的蛋白。

What is the average weight of a large egg white?
30 to 33 g per egg white.

通常大個雞蛋的蛋白是多重？

通常一顆大蛋的蛋白是重30-33克

Can I use 『Egg Beaters』 or 『Simply Egg Whites』 or other pre-separated egg whites sold in cartons?

我能使用『Egg Beaters』 （Egg Beaters是處理過的蛋白。裡面添加了維生素和植物膠。還有鹽和洋蔥粉。）or 『Simply Egg Whites』（ Simply Egg Whites應該是指直接已從蛋裡取的蛋白，添加了維生素等。）

嗎?

I have tried pre-separated egg whites with very inconsistent results. I know other bakers who tried to use them as well without success. Maybe it』ll work for you, but it’s more likely that it won’t. Separate your own eggs, it’s easy.

我有試過用「預分離蛋白」產生了很多不太好的效果。我知道其它的烘焙者嘗試使用「預分離蛋白」也同樣都失敗了，也許您可以成功，但大部份是失敗的，自己分離蛋白吧, 更容易成功。

If I can’t use egg beaters, what do I do with all the leftover egg yolks?
There are many things you can do with leftover egg yolks. Fresh pasta is one of my favorites, but you can also make homemade mayo or aïoli, hollandaise sauce, creamy desserts such as crème brûlée or zabaglione, and many other recipes. Here’s a very useful resource that lists recipes according to the number of egg yolks you need to make them: Recipes to Use Up Extra Egg Yolks.

如果我不能用「egg beaters」，如何處理多餘的蛋黃？(外國人很節約啊!)

剩下的蛋黃可以用來做很多事。我最喜愛的是義大利麵條，您還可以用來做梅奧，醬油，奶油甜點，或義大利菜餚和許多其它的食譜（豬豬覺得蛋達水和虎皮卷，蛋黃醬都不錯）這裡有個使用蛋黃的食譜連結。Recipes to Use Up Extra Egg Yolks.

What type of food coloring should I use?
Gel or powdered food colorings are preferable because liquid food colorings have less coloring power, so you need to add more to reach the right color and risk adding too much moisture to the batter. I like the Ateco gel kits or Chefmaster powdered kits.

我要使用哪種食用色素？

膏狀或粉狀食用色素是最適合的，因為液態色素的上色效果較差，所以您需要添加更多的色素才能達到理想的色澤，那樣的話就會添加更多的水份進入麵糊。我喜歡Ateco 膏狀色素套裝 or Chefmaster 色素粉套裝.

Is the use of cream of tartar necessary?
Cream of tartar is added to egg whites to help stabilize them and give them volume and strength. I personally never use cream of tartar (it’s not essential to the macaron recipe), but if you have trouble getting volume when you beat the egg whites, or if you feel like you never get the right batter consistency, try adding cream of tartar (1/8 teaspoon for each white) once the whites are foamy, before adding sugar.

有必要使用塔塔粉嗎？（豬豬覺得這裡用蛋白粉更健康）

塔塔粉加入蛋白中可以增加蛋白的穩定性和持久性。我個人從來不使用塔塔粉（馬卡龍的配方中這個不是必需品）但如果您覺得打發蛋白相對困難，可以放少許放入待打發的蛋白中.或者您無法拌到麵糊到理想的狀態，那麼當蛋白打發起泡後，嘗試加少許塔塔粉（每顆蛋白放1/8茶匙）然後再添加糖。

Is the use of powdered sugar necessary? Can I use a substitute? Can I reduce the sugar quantity?
Yes, powdered sugar is necessary, you can’t substitute it for other kind of sugar. You can play around with the sugar quantity, but not significantly as a fair quantity is needed to create the balance needed to get the best macaron texture. This article explains the mystical union of sugar and egg whites (via BraveTart).

一定要使用糖粉嗎？我能使用其它代替嗎？我可以減少糖量嗎？

是的，糖粉是必須的，你不能使用其它糖類代替。你可以嘗試改變糖的份量，但要注意不要過量減糖，因為適量的糖的含量才是組成馬卡龍的最佳組織的關鍵。這篇文章解釋了，糖粉和蛋白的秘密。This article explains the mystical union of sugar and egg whites (via BraveTart).

Do all brands of powdered sugar work? Is it ok if it contains cornstarch?

Yes, all brands of powdered sugar contain cornstarch. Low-cost dollar brands will rise the amount of cornstarch they add to the sugar to keep the cost down, so it’s not recommended to use those brands to make macarons. Use a popular brand, but not onewithout cornstarch as a little of it is good, according to Hélène Dujardin, to help balance moisture andensure sturdy shells.

是不是所有品牌的糖粉都可以使用？可以使用含玉米澱粉的糖粉嗎？

是的，所有品牌的糖粉都含有玉米澱粉，為了使造價便宜，越廉價的糖粉就添加越多的玉米澱粉。

所以不推薦大家使用那些價格低廉品牌的糖粉製作馬卡龍。使用知名大眾品牌，但也不要使用純糖粉，因為少量的玉米澱粉可幫助去除溼氣和確保馬卡龍組織的堅固。

What is almond meal? Is it the same as almond flour?
Yes it is. Almond meal or flour is simply almonds that have been ground very finely. Here’s an example of what you should look for. Leftover almond meal should be kept in an airtight bag or container in the fridge so it doesn’t turn rancid.

什麼是杏仁肉？和杏仁粉相同嗎？

是的，杏仁肉和杏仁粉同樣都是磨製成很細的粉狀。 這裡有個樣版，用不完的杏仁肉/粉應該保存在一個密封包或是瓶子內，放在冰箱冷藏，以免受潮。

My almond meal/flour looks wet/oily. Can I still use it?
Yes you can, but you should dry it first or it could cause you trouble making perfect macarons. Here’s a simple explanation and method (from bookLes Petits Macarons: Colorful French Confections to Make at Home): 「If you store your flour in the refrigerator or freezer, drying it before using – to remove any moisture from storage – will improve the structure and shape of your macarons and reduce the risk of cracks. To dry your almond flour, preheat the oven to 200°F [95°C]. Spread the almond flour on a baking sheet and bake it for 30 minutes. Remove the flour from the oven and let it cool completely before proceeding with the recipe.」

我的杏仁粉看起來潮溼/出油？我還能用嗎？

是的你可以用，但是你要先把它烘乾，不然就無法做出完美的馬卡龍。這裡是一個簡單的解釋和方法（來自書籍： Les Petits Macarons: Colorful French Confections to Make at Home）假如你將杏仁粉放在冰箱裡，在使用前將它烘乾。去除溼氣可以使馬卡龍的組織和外形更加完美，也減少外殼開裂的出現。如何烘乾杏仁粉？在製作馬卡龍前，預熱烤箱至95°C， 將杏仁粉放在烤盤中平鋪並撥開，烘烤約30分鐘，將烤盤取出讓至自然冷卻。

Can I use nuts other than almond to make macarons?
Yes you can, but, says Hélène Dujardin of Tartelette, who regularly teaches macaron classes, 「Try to keep a 50% ratio of almonds to other nuts. Almonds are the least oily of all nuts and they will keep the batter to the right consistency.」 Try hazelnuts, peanuts, pecans or pistachios for different and tasty results.

我可以使用其它堅果來製作馬卡龍嗎？

是的你可以的，教馬卡龍課的Hélène Dujardin ofTartelette老師說過：「保持50%的杏仁粉和其它堅果粉，杏仁是所有堅果類中含油含最少的而且其麵糊更適合做馬卡龍，你可以嘗試用榛果，花生，山核桃和開心果，或其它不同的堅果來嘗試不同口味。

Can I grind my own almonds/nuts?
Of course you can, if you don’t mind the extra work. Blanched almonds are best, but raw almonds work too, although their brown skin will alter the color of your shells. To grind the almonds/nuts, weigh them whole, then add them to a food processor along with the powdered sugar (which will prevent your nuts turning into butter). Process until very smooth, then sift as the recipe requires.

我能自己磨杏仁粉或是使用其它堅果粉嗎？

你當然可以的，如果你不怕麻煩的話，去皮的杏仁是最好的，有皮杏仁同樣可以，但它表皮的自然棕色會使你的馬卡殼失所有鮮豔的顏色。磨杏仁粉或堅果粉的方法，首先稱出它們的全部重量，和糖粉混合後，再把它們放至食物攪拌機中攪拌。如果不加糖粉的話，堅果類會在攪拌過程中出油，變成膏狀。將杏仁粉+糖粉打至細膩後，再過篩稱出配方中需要的份量。

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What if I’m allergic to nuts? Can I still make macarons?
Yes, you can. There are many nut-free macaron recipes out there, and here are the ones I’m inclined to trust the most.

· Nut-Free Macarons, made with pumpkin seeds (Brave Tart)

· Nut Free French Macarons, made with coconut & black sesame seeds (Baking Obsession)

· Coconut Macaron with Lime and White Chocolate Ganache (Gourmeted)

I hear author Jill Colonna has also published a quinoa-based macaron recipe in her book, Mad About Macarons.

如果我對堅果過敏，我還能製作馬卡龍嗎？

是的可以的，這裡有很多不需堅果的馬卡龍配方，這裡有很好的配方

南瓜子馬卡龍

椰子粉和黑芝麻馬卡龍

可可馬卡龍和白巧甘那許

About the Equipment

關於工具

Parchment paper or Silpats?
Some prefer Silpats (silicon mats), others parchment paper. Personally, I find that silicon mats seems to stick to delicate macaron shells more easily. I always use parchment paper with good, consistent results (and you can reuse the same parchment paper sheets many times before throwing them away). I always use unbleached parchment paper.

油紙(不粘布) 或 矽膠烤墊？(這裡我們結合國人的習慣稍做修改)

有些人喜歡用矽膠墊，有的人喜歡用油紙(不粘布)。我覺得矽膠墊更容易粘住馬卡龍的底部，所以我總是使用油紙(不粘布)，而且每次烤出來的效果都很棒。（你可以將油布反覆使用很多次）, 我一直使用未漂白的油紙(不粘布)

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Can I use butter instead of parchment paper?
I wouldn’t recommend it. Because of the macarons』 delicate nature, it often helps to be able to lift off the parchment paper (or silicon mat) to peel it off the shells. Plus, using butter would change the taste of the shells (which contain no fat).

我能使用塗抹黃油來代替使用油紙(不粘布)嗎？

我不推薦那樣，因為馬卡龍的組織很嬌貴，易碎，使用油紙(不粘布)將使馬卡龍很輕易的從紙上或矽膠墊上剝離出來。塗油有可能會改變馬卡龍外殼的風味（馬卡龍本身是不含油脂的）

Can I use wax paper / aluminum foil?
No, please don’t.

我能使用臘紙或鋁紙嗎？

不，請不要。

Which pastry tip is best?
Use a pastry tip with a round opening of about 1/2」-3/4」 in diameter. Good examples are Ateco Plain Pastry Tubes, sizes 6, 7 or 8. They cost about $1.50 each, or you can buy a full set.

什麼樣的擠花嘴是最好的？

使用一圓頭擠花嘴，大約1/2」-3/4」 或者你可以買一整套的.

What pastry bags do you use?
Any reusable pastry bag will do, and I would choose a bigger size (14」 to 18」), which allows you to transfer more batter (or all of it) at once. Also, choose one that is lined with plastic so you can clean it easily (see Ateco Plastic-Coated Decorating Bag).I admit that I also like the convenience of disposable pastry bags. They are cheap and easy to use.

你使用什麼樣的擠花袋？

任何可重複使用的擠花袋都可以，我會選擇大一點的尺寸。那樣可以讓你一次裝入所有的麵糊，做的更快一些。我更喜歡使用一次性裱花袋，它們便宜而且容易使用。

Do I really need to use a stainless steel bowl? Will aluminum or plastic bowls do?
I highly recommend it using stainless steel. A good stainless steel cul-de-poule is very versatile in the kitchen and will last you a lifetime. You don’t need a whole set, just one large bowl and you』ll be fine for most kitchen tasks. Says Stephanie Jaworski of Joy of Baking: 「Stainless steel (…) does a good job of whipping and stabilizing the egg whites. Don’t use an aluminum bowl as it gives the beaten egg whites a grayish tinge as some of the aluminum does come off during beating. Plastic and glass are not good surfaces either as the whites tend to slip down the sides of the bowl and plastic attracts grease because of its porous surface.」 If your bowl is just slightly greasy (which isn’t always noticeable to the eye or touch), it will prevent your egg whites from rising properly.

我需要使用不鏽鋼盆嗎？ 使用鋁製或塑料盆可以嗎？

我強烈推薦使用不鏽鋼盆，一個優質的不鏽鋼盆是可多用途的，而且可以終生使用。你不需要全套設備，只是一個大盆。除了做馬卡龍，你還可以用來做任何的廚房家務。不鏽鋼盆是打發蛋白最好的容器。不要使用鋁盆，因為在打蛋頭觸碰盆內的時侯，會有一些鋁屑會掉出來，塑膠盆和玻璃盆的表面也不適合。假如你的盆仍然有汙跡（這些是用肉眼或觸摸感覺不出來的）那就將影響蛋白的打發。

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But, won’t my electric beater scratch the stainless steel bowl?
Stainless steel is a very resistant surface. Although it’s true that, with use, it will show a slight patina, it won’t scratch per se, meaning nothing can penetrate stainless steel deeply. That’s why it’s the favorite working surface in professional kitchens.

但是，我的電動打蛋器會刷傷我的不鏽鋼盆？

不鏽鋼盆的表面非常堅固，使用這個是會一些輕微的刮痕，但不鏽鋼是非常堅固耐磨的，那是為什麼不鏽鋼是廚房裡最好的廚具材料。

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What kind of baking sheet is best? Do I need to buy an expensive one?
Quality isn’t as important as quantity. Because you』ll always cover the baking sheets with parchment paper, you don’t need top notch nonstick surfaces. Your good old battered sheets will do, but if you’re going to make macarons often, make sure you have at least 4 baking sheets (all of the same size), as each sheet much be doubled. One batter recipe will fill at least two sheets, so having two sets of sheets ready to use will allow you to pipe all your shells at once. If you need to buy baking sheets, here’s a good example of a basic and inexpensive, but good quality, baking sheet.

什麼樣的烤盤是最好的？我需要買一個貴的嗎？(國內烤盤便宜,親們別被誤導)

質量不比數量重要，因為你總是要用油布蓋上烤盤上了。你不需要買一個防粘的烤盤，你舊的烤盤也可以使用，但是你如果經常製作馬卡龍。你要有4個同樣尺寸的烤盤。因為每個烤盤必須配對。一個好的配方通常都可以擠出兩盤馬卡龍。所以有兩張烤盤可以讓你製作好麵糊後，馬上擠另一盤。如果你需要購買烤盤，這裡是一個價廉物美的烤盤樣版。

Why do I need to double the baking sheets?
Doubling the baking sheets prevent the bottom of the shells to bake too quickly, which would make it too hard by 「macaron standards」. It also favors the formation of the infamous feet (or crown), which is another macaron standard that can be frustratingly hard to get. Get there quicker by doubling your baking sheets.

為什麼我要相疊烤盤？(推薦大家使用重鋼烤盤,厚度足夠.)

相疊兩張烤盤可以防止馬卡龍殼的底部被烤的太快，

製作方法請看下集。

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