學習黃河
Learning from The Yellow River
（原載《黃河》2014年第3期）
加天山
Jia Tianshan
【英文翻譯、誦讀：劉連章（北京西北）】
（英文譯文已發表於《中國網》，連結請在文後點擊「閱讀原文」）
我第一次到黃河岸畔學習、工作和生活，是1997年冬天到吉縣王家垣鄉掛職鍛鍊。記得當年我撰寫了一副對聯：醜歲奮起黃河邊，牛年耕耘王家垣。其間，我抽空觀看了一次黃河壺口瀑布，領略了黃河「裂岸穿峽驚大地，帶雲吐霧嘯蒼穹」的雄壯，心中對黃河的認識，更多的是那種父親般的不懼艱險、驍勇向前、氣吞山河、波瀾壯闊的英雄氣概。2013年新年伊始，我有幸再次來到黃河岸畔，在永和縣學習、工作和生活。特殊的地域產生了特殊的機緣，使我看到了黃河母親河不易被人看到的另一面。In the winter of 1997, I was sent to work in Wangjiayuan of Jixian County as an on-the-job placement. It was the first time I went to study, work and live by The Yellow River. I remember I wrote a Chinese Couplet, which reads: 「In the year of Ox I am seeking to succeed in my job by the Yellow River; in the year of Ox, I am going to perform my duties diligently at Wangjiayuan.」 Later I had an opportunity to visit the Hukou Waterfalls, and was impressed with the splendid scene of the river 「Splitting the bank, running through the valley, and shaking the earth; driving the clouds, jetting the fog, and roaring forcefully」. And it aroused in me my admiration for the great river’s fatherly and heroic traits like courage, zealousness, generosity, daringness, and magnificence. At the beginning of the year 2013, I had another opportunity to stay with The Yellow River, when I came to work, live and study in Yonghe County. The special geographical location of Yonghe County helped me to look at the Mother River from a special perspective, which displayed to me something special that might be neglected by many people.
黃河在永和，被人們稱為「龍行黃河、天下永和」。縣誌云：「永和居萬山之中，滿目崎嶇。」但在我眼中，那崎嶇卻如詩如畫。你不論站在閣山、樓山，還是石門山（又名雙鎖山）山頂上，向四周遠眺，那一座座山與黃土高原特有的丘陵溝壑、梁梁峁峁，交織在一起，渾然一體、十分壯美。場面雖也遼闊，確總被四周綿延不絕的遠山環抱著，給人一種身處圓心、天圓地圓的合抱之美。黃河從南莊鄉前北頭灣進入永和，從交口鄉取材灣流出永和，蜿蜒68公裡，自北而南形成了英雄灣、永和關灣、郭家山灣、河澮裡灣、白家山灣、仙人灣和於家咀灣7個張弛自如的大灣，像一條巨龍，洋溢著祥和的瑞氣，穿行在晉陝大峽谷之中。我們把這七個灣統稱為乾坤灣。2011年2月1日，《貴陽晚報》高級記者羅萬雄在北京至貴陽的航班上，拍攝到黃河在永和境域內狀似巨龍的逼真照片：龍頭昂然向上、龍身蜿蜒起伏、龍尾擺動有力，在太陽光的照射下，波光粼粼、金光閃閃、神採飛揚。
The Yellow River winds its way through Yonghe County, the section in Yonghe is well-known for its dragon-like figure. As the county history reads, 「Yonghe is located among a big range of mountains, with the landscape being extremely bumpy and rugged」. But in my eyes, the bumpiness is poetic and picturesque. No matter whether you stand on the top of the Mount Ge, Mount Lou, or Mount of Stone Gate (also known as Mount Double Lock), you look around and can be shocked with the numerous hills intertwined with many valleys, and perfectly integrated with each other, which creates its spectacularity. With the scene being astoundingly spectacular, you feel embraced by the endlessly extending mountains, and you are standing at the center of the heaven and the earth. The Yellow River enters the Yonghe territory at Qianbeitouwan of Nanzhuang Township, and flows out of Yonghe at Qucaiwan of Jiaokou Township, and it winds its way through Yonghe as long as 68 kilometers, forming 7 powerfully stretching gigantic bends from north to south, including Hero Bend, Yonghe Pass Bend, Guojiashan Bend, Hehuili Bend, Baijiashan Bend, Xianren Bend, and Yujiazui Bend. The river section in Yonghe is just like a dragon, strolling through the Jinshan Great Canyon and shining with an atmosphere of happiness and auspiciousness. These seven river bends are collectively named The Qiankun (Heaven and Earth) Bend. On February 1, 2011, Mr Luo Wanxiong, a senior journalist from Guizhou Evening, occasionally took an aerial picture of The Qiankun Bend from the Beijing-to-Guiyang flight, only to find that the river section in Yonghe vividly resembling a huge dragon, with its head being raised high, its body winding and rolling along, its tail wagging forcefully. The dragon was glinting radiantly in the bright sunshine.
黃河在永和乾坤灣，展現了母親河最為溫婉多情、寧靜從容、大氣、和諧的姿容。黃河乾坤灣美，美在和諧包容。你不論觀賞哪一道蛇曲似的大灣都能夠看到山與水、天與地，動與靜、曲與直，雄壯與柔美、粗獷與細膩交相互映的大氣和諧之美；尤其是在乾坤灣核心景區河澮裡灣，黃河在永和縣河澮裡村與陝西延川縣伏義河村兩座山峰中打了一個「S」型的彎，形同太極陰陽魚。這裡山抱著河、河抱著山，山中有河、河中有山。傳說伏羲在這裡仰觀天象、俯察地理，悟出了天地運行、日月更迭、陰陽合抱、和諧共生的大道，開創了華夏文明的先河。在乾坤灣河道上有一個800米長的小島，當地群眾稱之為「老牛坎」。島上有許多碎石，傳說是女媧娘娘鍊石補天剩下的石頭。這古老的傳說給乾坤灣平添了幾多神奇。黃河乾坤灣美，美在溫婉多情。當你站在黃土高坡，注目黃河時，黃河仿佛像一位婀娜多姿的姑娘，在黃土高原伴著《黃河大合唱》的節奏，輕歌曼舞，如醉如痴。此時讓人覺得乾坤灣是黃河最開心的舞臺。當你在萬山之中、天圓地圓的永和視域內觀照黃河，黃河又像一位經歷了長時間長途跋涉的行者，躺在那裡靜靜歇息。此時讓人覺得乾坤灣就是黃河遠徵的驛站、避風的港灣。當你走近黃河岸畔，看到黃河水環繞著身邊的山巒，緩緩流淌，你會覺得黃河像一位將要出嫁的姑娘，在戀戀不捨自己的家園。此時讓人覺得乾坤灣就是黃河在黃土高原的家。
The Qiankun Bend fully exhibits the Mother River’s kindness, affection, serenity, easiness, majesty, and harmony. The glamor of the Qiankun Bend is well characterized with its harmony and inclusiveness. Whichever great snake-like river bend you watch, you will be impressed with splendid harmonious beauty of perfect integration and interaction between waters and mountains, heaven and earth, motion and tranquility, bending and straightness, masculinity and femininity, ruggedness and fineness. Particularly, at Hehuili Bend, the central part of the Qiankun Bend, The Yellow River forms an S-curve between the mountainous villages, Hehuili Village of Yonghe County and Yihe Village of Yanchuan County, Shaanxi Province, and the S-curve resembles exactly the Taichi Emblem of Yin-Yang Fish. Here, you can see the mountains embracing the river, the river embracing the mountains, with the river flowing through the mountains, and the mountains standing within the river. According tothe folklore, it was here that Fuxi, the legendary Chinese primogenitor, looked up to the sky and looked down to the earth, and he came up with a thorough understanding of the nature and operation laws of heaven and earth, the sun and the moon, Yin and Yang, and the coexistence of things in the world, and thus started the history of Chinese civilization. In the middle of Qiankun Bend, there is an 800-meter long island, which is called by the local people 「Laoniukan (Old bull ridge)」. On the island there are lots of broken rocks, which are said to be left by Mother Nuwa (legendary creator of Chinese people), when she smelted colorful rocks to mend the cracks of the vault of heaven. This old folklore adds to the magic appeal of the river bend. The Qiankun Bend’s beauty lies in its geniality and affection. When you are standing on top of the loess plateau, and look at the Yellow River, you find that it is just like a graceful and charming girl, singing and dancing to the tune of 「The Yellow River Chorus」, leaving you intoxicated and ecstatic. And now, you will feel that the Qiankun Bend is exactly the most pleasant stage of the Yellow River. When you place yourself in Yonghe County, which is embraced by the countless mountains, and beautified by the harmony between heaven and earth, you』ll find that the river is like a tired and well-weathered traveler lying there calmly for a rest, the Qiankun Bend is like a courier station or a port along the long march. When you come up to the riverside and see the river flowing slowly through between the chains of the mountains by your side, you will feel that the river is like a girl to get married, who is leaving her hometown with much reluctance. The Qiankun Bend is the river’s home on the Loess Plateau.
乾坤灣美，美在寧靜從容。晉陝大峽谷，黃河乾坤灣，可以說是黃河河道最曲折的地方，也是黃河經歷艱難險阻最多的地方。但恰恰是這個地方，我們看到了黃河的寧靜和從容。黃河在這裡靜若處子，水波不興、靜靜流淌。置身於乾坤灣，有一種進入母親懷抱的感覺，不論你平時心情多麼急躁，來到乾坤灣，看看黃河靜水深流，心便會安靜下來，不由得感嘆：黃河乾坤灣，能使人心靈寧靜而淡定的灣。
The beauty of The Qiankun Bend lies in its peacefulness and easiness. The Jinshan Great Canyon, through which the Qiankun Bend winds its way, is the most twisted section of the Yellow River, and also where the river experiences most obstacles and hardships, but it is here that we see the river’s peacefulness and easiness. It is here that the river is as quiet as a shy little girl, and flows along noiselessly. It is here that you feel you are in mother’s warm arms, and however restless or uneasy you may be, you are to calm down when you are here, seeing the river water flowing still. Then, you can’t help thinking that the Qiankun Bend is where people can feel tranquility and serenity.
黃河在永和乾坤灣，不僅展示了她外在的自然之美，更釋放了她內在的精神之美。來到黃河乾坤灣，我們更加容易理解，正是黃河以她自強不息、奮發圖強的黃河精神，孕育了中華民族的精神。我們從黃河在永和68公裡的裡程中，不難想像黃河翻山越嶺、穿峽裂岸、不屈不撓的堅強；從黃河在曲折的蛇曲般的河灣從容前行中，不難理解是黃河以她的睿智喚醒了中華雄獅的覺醒。我們從黃河乾坤灣不擇細流的包容中，更能理解黃河匯集白河、黑河、汾河、渭河等40多條河流與上千條溪川，所體現的海納百川的胸襟。我們從黃河在永和流域內留下的新石器時代、夏商周時期的遺址，還有永和關古渡口、河澮裡古村落，還有沿黃20多萬畝棗林2萬多民眾，更能深深地領會黃河潤澤萬物、厚德載民的神聖。
The Yellow River does not only exhibit her extraordinary natural beauty, but also emit her inner spiritual glamor. Only at the Qiankun Bend can we understand the Mother River’s spirit of perseverance and industriousness, which molded such qualities of the Chinese nation. From the 68-km long section of the Yellow River in Yonghe County, we can easily feel the strong will the river displays by pushing its way through numerous mountains and valleys, and running forward unremittingly. From the snake-like twisted river course and its easy flowing, we can easily understand the river’s wisdom that awakened the 「sleeping lion」 in the east. From the inclusiveness of the Qiankun Bend that attracts numerous small tributaries, we can easily imagine the whole river’s all-embracing spirit displayed by receiving more than 40 large tributaries including the White River, The Black River, The Fenhe River, and the Weihe River, as well as thousands of smaller streams alongside. We can deeply comprehend the mother river’s sacredness that has bred and nurtured everything and everybody living here from the rich ancient cultural relics along the river section in Yonghe, including those of the New Stone Age, the Xia and Zhou Dynasties, the ancient ferry at the Yonghe Pass, the ancient village of Hehuili, and above all, more than 200,000 mu jujube plantation and 20 thousand inhabitants by the river.
1936年的紅軍東徵，毛澤東、彭德懷率中國人民紅軍抗日先鋒軍進行了渡河東徵，壯大了紅軍力量，促進了抗日民族統一戰線的形成，推動了抗日救亡運動的發展。在永和，毛主席率總部人員前後共居住了13個日夜，組織召開了軍事會議，將「渡河東徵、抗日反蔣」的方針，調整為「回師西渡、聯蔣抗日」的策略，扭轉了中國革命的乾坤。至今在永和紅軍東徵紀念館，仍記錄著當年毛主席的神奇往事和紅軍將士的赫赫戰功。在永和關紅軍崖下，依然傳頌著當年為掩護大部隊回師西渡，12名紅軍戰士彈盡糧絕，縱身跳入黃河的悲壯事跡。那時候，勤勞、善良、樸實、勇敢的永和人民，為紅軍東徵作出了不可磨滅的貢獻。新中國成立至今，永和人民在這塊貧瘠偏僻的土地上，創造了許多可歌可泣的業績。當你來到永和境內的黃河岸畔，隨處可見層層疊疊、橫豎成行、整齊劃一的三北防護林工程，像一座座綠色的豐碑，那是永和人民為改善惡劣的生態和生存環境，在黃河岸畔譜寫的輝煌篇章。在永和，黃河精神、民族精神、東徵精神、永和精神，得到一脈相承的湧現。
In 1936, under the leadership of Mao Zedong and Peng Dehuai, the vanguard of the Red Army crossed the Yellow River and marched to the east to fight the Japanese invaders, which helped expand the military forces of the Red Army, promoted the formation of the anti-Japanese national united front, and pushed forward the Movement of Resistance Against Japan and Saving the Nation. It was here in Yonghe that Chairman Mao, together with the headquarters, stayed for 13 days when they held a military meeting and made the decision of shifting from 「marching to the east to fight the Japanese invaders and Kuomintang forces」 to 「marching to the east to fight in alliance with the Kuomintang forces against the Japanese invaders」, which meant a great strategic adjustment in the course of Chinese Revolution. Today, in the Memorial for the Red Army’s East March, people can find the records of Chairman Mao’s miraculous stories and the Red Army’s great battle achievements. Today, in the neighborhood of the Red Army Cliff, the moving and tragic story is still being told about twelve Red Army soldiers, who were appointed to cover the main forces crossing the Yellow River westward, but finally ran out of their food and ammo, and jumped into the surging waters of the river to avoid being captured by the enemy. At that time, the people of Yonghe, industrious, kind, simple and brave, contributed much to the Red Army’s East March achievements. Since the founding of The People’s Republic of China, the people of Yonghe, living in this remote and barren land, have made great accomplishment in social development. When you come up to the Yonghe Section of the Yellow River, you will see the great project of the Three-North Forest Shelter belt, neatly planted and far-reaching, tier upon tier, line by line, and row by row, which serves as a green monument with the inscription of the great historical chapter written by the people of Yonghe in their fight to improve the formidable ecological and living conditions. In Yonghe County, the spirit of the Yellow River, the spirit of the Chinese Nation, the spirit of the East March, and the spirit of Yonghe are perfectly integrated and revealed.
我時常想起黃河在永和，就會默默告誡自己：學習黃河。
The Yellow River that flows through Yonghe occurs to my mind from time to time, silently reminding me of learning from the river.
（作者加天山，時任山西省永和縣委書記）
Jia Tianshan (The Former Party Secretary of Yonghe County, Shanxi Province)
（所有配圖均為北京西北親攝原創）
（北京西北與原文作者、時任山西永和縣委書記加天山 合影於永和黃河）