Tis the season for tracking down holiday spirit-inducing libations, and it’s understandable why mulled wine is a winter staple. It’s comfortingly warm, typically quite boozy and has all the sugar and spice needed to remind us that we should probably be filling our souls (and bellies) with festive cheer. Plus, it’s easy to make in large quantities, inexpensive, crowd-pleasing, and well, demanded by the masses.
Come December, throw a rock (snowball?) and you』ll hit a venue with a sign that says they』ve got it on the menu; one window after another promising sappy drunken toasts and authentic holiday hangovers – the latter because, as we all know, mulled wine is more often than not made with cheap wines and spirits whose qualities are covered up by abundant spices and sweetener.
The fact is, the cheap route may seem difficult to avoid when guests often expect to pay pennies for hefty mugs of the stuff. But you need not abide – why not level up your mulled wine game? The most-loved ways I』ve enjoyed mulled wine have been in cocktails which stray from the norm, but still deliver the nostalgic, must-have flavours of the season.
*Hope & Sesame’s Mulled Wine Negroni
*Chameleon’s Mulled Wine CobblerTo name a few: Hope & Sesame’s wax-sealed bottles of Mulled Wine Negroni (dry gin, mulled wine-spiced Mancino Rosso, Campari) do everything right. Chameleon’s Mulled Wine Cobbler (shiso and blueberry infused Grand Marnier, mulled wine reduction, lemon juice) is a great format for the drink’s fruity, spiced character. At a recent guest shift at Andaz Xintiandi’s Bleu Bar, Cristina Ng’s winning Fairy-tale of New York, Sour swapped in mulled wine for the requisite red wine float. And while The Union Trading Company never fails with twisted Eggnogs, localised Toddys, fat-washed Hot Buttered Rums, figgy fizzes and other seasonal champions, they also keep it classic with a plush mulled wine that guests happily pay more for (shiraz, Rémy VSOP, PX sherry, citrus and spices).
*The Union Trading Company’s Warm HuangjiuMy new favourite in 2020 is this Mulled Wine Milk Punch (below). It’s an adaptation of Black Tea-Port Milk Punch by Dan Souza of America’s Test Kitchen, which as itself is an adaptation of Jerry Thomas』 Ruby Punch from circa 1862, brought into the limelight by David Wondrich. Souza’s recipe, as it’s written, stands as a solid framework for further twists, especially if you’re still getting comfortable with clarified milk punch methods.You』ll find many reasons for you and your guests to love this twist. It’s easy to make in big batches, keeps for months (though it』ll be gone far before), and makes for compelling conversation with drinkers who come in search of mulled wine, and then have their expectations defied by a glass of crystal clear, pink-hued punch that releases layers of classic mulled wine flavours with each silky sip.Recipe yields about 2 litres of punch· 300ml VSOP cognac ·
· 300ml Ruby port ·
· 900ml Spiced tea* ·
· 170g Sugar ·
· 160ml Lemon juice ·
1. Measure out milk in a large (5L) pitcher. In a separate pitcher, stir together all other ingredients, making sure the sugar is fully dissolved.
2. Slowly pour your cocktail mixture into the milk – you will see the milk begin to curdle almost immediately. Once you』ve added all of the liquid to the milk, give the mix a gentle stir with a barspoon to combine.
3. Cover and refrigerate overnight, or a few hours minimum. The curds and punch will fully separate.
4. Time to strain: set up a mesh strainer lined with a coffee filter or cheesecloth and place it over a large pitcher or bowl. Slowly pour the punch through the strainer and let it drain (be patient!). Then, pour the clarified punch through the curds in the strainer again.
5. Your clarified milk punch is ready. Store in glass bottles – it will keep for months in the fridge.
6. To serve, pour about 90ml over a block of ice in a rocks glass. If desired, garnish with a star anise pod – but the drink is beautiful without.
*Spiced tea: Black tea (preferably English Breakfast); cinnamon sticks; cloves; nutmeg; star anise; black peppercorns; orange peel. Simmer all ingredients together in a pot over low heat until brew is dark and fragrant. Fine strain.