時尚傳播觀察：媒體時代是否已經結束了？
圖片來源：上海大學-巴黎國際時裝藝術學院
媒體的性別差異逐漸在淡化，這將極大地改變媒體行業，而且不局限在時尚和美妝領域。首先是平面和數字雜誌，過去都是按面向男性和女性讀者來區分的，近些年來有了很大的變化， 以至於它們要重新思考目標群體和營銷策略。曾幾何時，女同胞被認為只看女性雜誌，而男士只對男士健康雜誌和紳士季刊感興趣，但是越來越多的讀者不再以性別而是以自己的興趣來標榜自己。是否可以說按性別來劃分媒體的時代已經結束了？很多專家指出性別化的媒體不再是可行的商業模式，出版物也要順應時代的變化來留住自己的受眾。
Gendered media or rather the demise of it, is making headlines world over, no more less than in the fashion and beauty industry. For a start, print and digital magazines that were once boxed into female or male readers only have shifted widely in recent years, so much so they are having to rethink their entire audience and marketing strategies. While in the past women have been drawn to stereotypical women's magazines and men towards the likes of mens health and GQ, more and more, readers feel less defined by their genders and more by their interests. Is it possible we are finished with the era of gendered media? Many experts say gendered media is no longer a viable business model and that publications will need to change with the times if they want to continue having an audience at all.
角色的變化
Changing Roles
圖片來源：上海大學-巴黎國際時裝藝術學院
出現上述現象的原因之一在於工作和家庭中角色分工的變化。越來越多的男性留在家裡照看小孩，也就是說他們的興趣也變成了通常認為是女性喜歡的那些東西，比如做飯，清潔，收拾房間等等。同樣地，越來越多的女性開始健身塑形，同時也對在工作中有效領導團隊有了更多的興趣，而這兩個主題過去通常是出現在男性雜誌中的，現在老派的女性時尚雜誌中卻屢見不鮮。去思考通過目標群體的興趣而不是簡單地通過性別來劃分目標受眾，是現在出版物成功的基本因素。
One of the contributing factors to this phenomenon has a lot to do with the shift and change in roles in both the workplace and at home. More men than ever are staying at home to look after the kids, meaning their interests are shifting towards traditionally female interests such as cooking, cleaning and creating an organized home space. Similarly, more women than ever are participating in muscle sports like body building and more interested in reading about how to lead their team at work efficiently, two topics more likely to be covered in traditional mens magazines than the rag mags of the old fashioned female market. This is fundamental for publications to consider in these times and why media is and should be leaning towards grouping their audience with common interests instead of gender in order to continue being successful.
性取向
Sexual Orientation
另一個終結性別化媒體的原因是這個時代對不同性取向的群體越來越包容。過去女性雜誌寫男人必須通過女性視角，反過來也是。這樣做的問題在於忽略了男性和女性中還有其他取向的群體。當然了，男同可以讀女性雜誌，可能會有一些相通的地方，可是內容畢竟不是寫給他們的，更多的是無法引起他們共鳴的內容。當然一本雜誌也無法為各種各樣性取向的群體服務，這需要很多雜誌和內容創造人一起努力。一些生活方式出版物已經開始嘗試吸引有特定興趣愛好的讀者群體，而不是簡單地分為男性或女性讀者，這其實就需要供稿人就各種不同的性別關係來創造內容。
Another reason for the potential end to gendered media is the embracing of various sexual orientation. Traditionally, publications aimed at women would write from a female perspective about men and vice versa. The problem with this is it leaves out huge demographics of women who want to be able to relate to their female to female relationship and males who want to relate to their male to male relationship. Of course, males in a homosexual relationship can read women aimed magazines and gleam some insight however it's obvious it isn't written for them and the point of view is often out of place to make it truly relatable. Of course, it's not so easy to market a magazine to every sexual orientation without having a wide range of media and writers. Some lifestyle publications who are attempting to appeal to readers interests rather than their gender, require writers to only make points that apply to every kind of relationship.
粉碎性別成見
Shattering Gender Stereotypes
圖片來源：上海大學-巴黎國際時裝藝術學院
很多品牌和企業都在不遺餘力打碎性別成見，而且廣受好評。坎城金獅創意節（Cannes Lions Festival）專門為挑戰性別教條廣告設立了一個獎。例如之前獲獎的英格蘭體育局（Sport England）的廣告This Girl Can就是最好的例子。通常我們看到的平面或者體育廣告，經常都是一個肌肉健碩的男性或者女性，標準的身材，健康的膚色上閃耀著精緻的汗珠，廣告裡的人總是活力無限，穿著好看的緊身運動服。然而這個廣告沒有走這種老路，呈現了一個毫無距離感的，普通的年紀，身材和長相的女孩，正在費勁地騎自行車，她的金色捲髮有些雜亂，戴著一個簡單的頭盔，她的衣服很隨意，不是知名品牌的產品，就像是是從衣櫥裡隨便挑的一件。這和一般的體育廣告的風格完全不一樣，那些廣告裡頭髮一定是收拾得一絲不苟，不受天氣和汗水的影響，因為他們有足夠的錢來搭配大牌運動服和配飾。這個廣告還加了一行簡單有力的文字：我雖然慢，可是已經領先那些躺在沙發上的人了。
Many brands and companies are making great strides in terms of attempting to shatter gender stereotypes and being praised widely for it. So much so that the Cannes Lions Festival have created an award for best advertising campaigns that challenge gender norms. We only have to look to previous winner Sport England's This Girl Can campaign for a perfect example. When we think of a sporting ad, be it for print or television, more often than not they feature a muscle clad male or female, their skin and taught, toned physique, glistening with delicately crafted sweat. They rarely look uncomfortable, like they are pushing themselves in anyway, the models are always attractive and dressed perfectly in figure enhancing gym wear. Taking a completely different approach, the This Girl Can campaign bucks all stereotypes, showing a more relatable, average aged, sized and looking person, battling on a bicycle. Her hair is a mop of curly blonde being weighed down by her basic helmet and her clothes simply random, unbranded pieces that look pulled from the closet in a rush. This is in such stark contrast to the usual styling used in sports ads, where suitable coiffed and polished hair isn't affected by the weather or sweat and they have all the money in the world to spend on co-ordinating designer gym wear and branded accessories. The advertisement is made even more complete by the strap line, 「I'm slow but I'm lapping everyone on the couch.」
結局唱響了
The Beginning Of The End
圖片來源：上海大學-巴黎國際時裝藝術學院
正如專家所指出的，性別化的媒體已經行不通了。我們正處在性別化媒體消亡的初始階段， 在弄清楚面向大眾的非性別化媒體到底是什麼樣子之前，還有很長的一段路要走，畢竟在此之前以性別為出發點的媒體太多了，要經過一段漫長的時間我們才能打破這些成見，才能看到宣傳和出版物採用非性別化的立場，而且我們對此習以為常。當然不止那些大企業需要做出改變，我們每個人在日常生活中都會不自覺地有性別的成見，畢竟這種觀念在我們中間已經根深蒂固了。例如，如果我們說一個人好管事，我們就自動想到一個女性形象。為什麼？因為我們都認為只有女性是愛管事的，同樣性格的男性，我們則覺得他能幹，有領導氣質，而且意志強大。
While we have to agree with the experts, gendered media is no longer a viable business model, we're definitely at the beginning of the end and we have a long way to go before we figure out exactly what non gendered media looks like for the masses. Simply, so much gendered media has come before it that it will take a significant amount of time to break down those stereotypes and for us to see an advertisement or publication who is using non gendered media and to not feel we need to praise or remark on it, it's so much a part of our normal. Of course, it's not just big companies that need to make changes, after all, in our everyday life we make gender stereotypes all the time without even realizing, it's so ingrained into our psyche. For example, when we think of a bossy person, our brains immediately picture a woman, why? Only women are described as bossy, men in the same strain are described as commanding or dominant or even strong willed.
要進入到一個沒有性別差異的媒體時代，需要我們生活中各個方面的努力，例如企業如何宣傳產品，我們如何評價他人，這條路還很長，現在我們也才開了個頭。
To enter into a true era where gendered media doesn't exist, it takes work from all aspects of life, from how companies portray and advertise their products, to how we speak about each other. There's a long way to go but we have definitely started on the journey.
上海大學巴黎國際時裝藝術學院（Shanghai University - MOD'ART International），成立於2003年，被外界譽為」上海時裝界的黃埔軍校「，是國內第一個在上海創辦的中法合作時裝設計學院，國內率先引進法國奢侈品營銷與管理專業和時尚傳播專業。受到中國服裝協會、中國服裝設計師協會、中國國際貿易促進會紡織行業分會等專業社會團體的支持。