入選米其林美食指南，哪怕只有一顆星，對大多數餐廳來說都是無上的榮耀。但是韓國首爾的一名大廚卻不以為榮，反以為恥，甚至為此公開起訴米其林。這是為何呢？
The logo of French tyremaker Michelin with Bibendum or the Michelin Man mascot is pictured during the company's 2011 annual results in Paris February 10, 2012. REUTERS/Charles Platiau
Some chefs dream their whole lives of winning a Michelin star. But not Eo Yun-gwon.
有些大廚一輩子都夢想能贏得米其林的一顆星。但Eo Yun-gwon不是這樣的大廚。
The South Korean chef is reportedly suing Michelin for including his restaurant Ristorante Eo in their 2019 guide to Seoul, saying that he asked them not to. He is taking action under a South Korean law against public insult.
據報導，這位韓國大廚狀告米其林無視他的拒絕，將他的餐廳Ristorante Eo列入《2019米其林首爾指南》。他以韓國法律中的「公開侮辱罪」起訴米其林。
On November 15, Eo announced on his Facebook page that he had lodged a public insult criminal complaint against Michelin Travel Partner in the Seoul Central District Prosecutor's Office the same day.
11月15日，Eo在他的臉書頁面宣布，當天他已經向首爾中央地區檢察官辦公室以公開侮辱罪對米其林旅遊合作夥伴提出了起訴。
"I have filed a criminal complaint against Michelin Guide's behavior of forcibly listing [restaurants] against their will and without a clear criteria," he wrote.
他寫道：「我已經對米其林指南提出刑事訴訟，控告其違反餐廳意願強行將餐廳列入美食指南，且沒有明確的評判標準。」
"Including my restaurant Eo in the corrupt book is a defamation against members of Eo and the fans. Like a ghost, they did not have a contact number and I was only able to get in touch through email. Although I clearly refused listing of my restaurant, they included it at their will this year as well."
「將我的餐廳Eo列入這本爛書是對Eo成員和粉絲的侮辱。他們就像幽靈一般沒有聯繫號碼，我只好通過電子郵件和他們取得聯繫。儘管我已明確拒絕，他們今年還是隨心所欲地將我的餐廳列入了指南。」
defamation[ˌdefəˈmeɪʃn]: n. 誹謗；中傷
Chef Eo trained in Milan before returning to his home country.
In particular, Eo takes issue with the way that Michelin, which is legendarily tight-lipped about its process, judges restaurants.
尤其讓Eo不滿的是米其林對其評級過程守口如瓶的「傳奇」方式。
In another Facebook post, this one dated November 13, Eo wrote, "There are thousands of restaurants in Seoul that are on the same level or better and more honest than those listed on the Michelin guide. It is a sad joke that a mere 170 of them are representing Seoul."
在發布於11月13日的另一個臉書帖子上，Eo寫道：「和米其林指南上的餐廳相比，首爾有數千家餐廳的水平與之持平甚至更高，而且更誠信，但卻只有170家餐廳可以代表首爾，這真是一個可悲的笑話。」
According to Eo's Facebook page, he emailed Michelin asking them to remove his restaurant from the guide in all categories and demanded that they explain the rating criteria.
根據Eo的臉書頁面，他給米其林發電子郵件，要求米其林將他的餐廳從美食指南的所有類別中撤下，並要求他們解釋評價標準。
He says he wrote in the email: "Numerous restaurants and the workers are wasting away their soul (money, time, and effort) to pursue the mirage that is Michelin star."
他說他在電子郵件中寫道：「許多餐廳和員工都在浪費自己的靈魂（金錢、時間、精力）追求米其林星級這個海市蜃樓。」
mirage[məˈrɑːʒ]: n. 海市蜃樓；幻想，妄想
Michelin released its first Seoul restaurant guide in 2016. Their description of Ristorante Eo specifically cited the chef, stating that "each dish clearly demonstrates his insight into the integrity and simplicity of Italian cooking."
米其林於2016年發布了首部首爾餐廳指南。他們對Ristorante Eo餐廳的描述中特別提到了這位大廚，聲稱「每一道菜都清晰展現了他對義大利烹飪完整性和樸素性的洞察力。」
Eo told CNN by phone, "Michelin guide is a cruel system. It's the cruelest test in the world. It forces the chefs to work around a year waiting for a test [and] they don't know when it's coming."
Eo在電話中告訴CNN說：「米其林指南是一套殘酷的系統。它是全世界最殘酷的測試。它迫使大廚們一整年都在辛苦等待一個不知何時會到來的測試。」
"It is humiliating to see my restaurant given a rating in that unwholesome book," Eo continued. The Michelin guide, he added, "is blinded by money and lacks philosophy."
Eo說：「看到我的餐廳在那部爛書中獲評星級，我感到恥辱。」他補充道，米其林指南「被金錢蒙蔽，缺乏思想」。
Ristorante Eo brings traditional Italian cooking to the South Korean capital.
Although Eo's suit has already made news in the food world, South Korean criminal attorney Shin Ha-na says that the charges are unlikely to stick.
儘管Eo的起訴已經在美食界成為了新聞，但韓國刑事律師Shin Ha-na說，這項罪名不太可能成立。
"There needs to be an insulting statement that would cut down one's social standing," Shin explains to CNN. "Usually, there needs to be curse words. Since the guide didn't print profanity, I don't think the charge will stand."
Shin向CNN解釋道：「需要有貶低社會地位的侮辱性言辭，這項罪名才會成立。通常需要有咒罵性質的話。因為米其林指南上沒有印不雅言辭，我認為這項罪名不會成立。」
However, Shin notes that if Michelin is found guilty, the company will be ordered to pay somewhere between 500,000 to 3 million won (in damages).
但是，Shin指出，如果米其林罪名成立，法院將令其支付50萬到300萬韓元（約合人民幣3000元到1.8萬元）的賠償金。
Eo isn't the only chef taking issue with the famously secretive food reviewing guide.
Eo不是唯一一個看不慣以秘密考核美食聞名的米其林指南的廚師。
French chef Marc Veyrat also sued Michelin in 2019 -- but in his case, it was for taking a star away.
法國大廚馬克·維拉也在2019年起訴了米其林，不過他起訴是因為米其林拿走了一顆星。
The Michelin Guide for France told Veyrat that they were docking one of his stars after reviewing his restaurant La Maison des Bois in the Alps.
《米其林法國指南》通知維拉說，他們在考核了維拉在阿爾卑斯地區的博伊斯梅森餐廳後，決定摘掉一顆星。
Marc Veyrat, for his part, claimed that the incident had to do with a misunderstanding about cheese -- the Michelin reviewer believed a souffle had been made of cheddar, while the chef said it was several other cheeses with saffron added to give it the yellow hue often associated with cheddar.
馬克·維拉則聲稱，這一事件與評審員對奶酪的誤解有關——米其林評審員認為一道蛋奶酥是用切達乾酪做成的，而大廚稱蛋奶酥是用幾種其他奶酪加上藏紅花做成，這才讓蛋奶酥有了形似切達乾酪的黃顏色。
He added that he went into a deep depression following the star demotion. "I've been dishonored, I saw my team in tears," he told a French radio station.
他補充道，在餐廳被降級後，他陷入了深深的抑鬱。他告訴一家法國電臺說：「我聲名掃地，我看到我的團隊在落淚。」
Veyrat's suit against Michelin will be heard in November in Nanterre, France.
維拉起訴米其林的聽證會將於11月在法國南泰爾舉行。
No matter what happens with either lawsuit, though, it's clear that Eo isn't going anywhere.
無論兩起訴訟的結果如何，顯然Eo是不會動搖的。
On his Facebook page, he wrote, "I will work hard to safeguard the integrity of our industry against garbage critics like Michelin or influencers or the media. I will continue my campaign against Michelin."
他在自己的臉書頁面上寫道：「我將努力捍衛我們的行業完整性不受米其林、網紅或媒體等垃圾評論者的侵擾。我會將抵制米其林的活動進行下去。」
11月18日，米其林公布了首版北京米其林指南「必比登推介」餐廳名單。上榜的15家餐廳中，除了北京本土風格鮮明的豆汁、爆肚、涮羊肉等外，還有東南亞菜和浙江台州菜。可沒想到，這份名單卻在國內社交網站上被不少吃貨們瘋狂吐槽。
有人質疑餐廳評選的合理性，有人覺得米其林指南對北京美食以及背後的美食文化認知不足，甚至還有人譏諷稱「這是『米其林羞辱北京指南』」。
CNN網站援引一名微博用戶的評論稱：
"Whether a restaurant is good or not should be up to the individual's feelings. So why do we need such Western formalism to speak out for our Chinese restaurants?"
「一家餐廳是好是壞取決於個人感覺，何需讓這種西方形式主義為中國餐廳代言？」
此次大董獲得一星餐廳，但並未出席頒獎。大董創始人董振祥撰文反思了米其林對中國餐廳的評選。他指出米其林對於北京小吃更多的是獵奇的態度，這會讓國際社會以為中國老百姓的美食水平就是爆肚、下水和內臟，而這顯然不是中國美食的主流和大雅。
他寫道，米其林發布北京小吃的立意，是討好北京市場、打開局面；但也難逃其「逐臭」的美食思維，路走偏了，米其林就成了糟粕。
董振祥希望米其林評選對所在地美食有更深入的認知，有更虛心的態度，把傲慢、無知和偏見剔除。
來源：中國日報網英語點津 編輯：丹妮