服裝與建築的起源都是為了遮蔽和保護人類,一個有著流動之美,一個有著凝固之美,兩者都是人類肌膚的延伸,都是關於人的藝術。作為一個新興的本土獨立設計師女裝品牌,LIULIU MO(劉劉墨)在電商經濟極其成熟的大環境中,希望將其「克制而極致」的時尚態度,融合進全新的實體店空間中。
The origin of clothing and architecture is to shield and protect human beings. One has the beauty of flow and the other has the beauty of solidification. Both are extensions of human skin and are all about human art. As an emerging local independent designer brand of womenswear, LIULIU MO hopes to integrate its 「restraint but ultimate」 fashion attitude into a new physical store in the environment of extremely mature e-commerce economy.
空間概覽,entrance view
加減智庫受邀為LIULIU MO品牌終端形象進行全面升級設計。廣州菱匯店作為其新形象落地的第一家店,加減智庫試圖在設計中,通過對「時尚」一詞背後所隱藏的一些人類社會的反義關係的思考,尋求有別於傳統商業空間的新的時尚表現形式。
PMT Partners was invited to carry out a comprehensive upgrade design for the LIULIU MO’s all-new brand terminal. Designer tried to seek new fashion expressions different from the traditional commercial space by reflecting on the antonymy of human society behind the word 「fashion」. As the first store with a new image in Guangzhou OneLink Walk Shopping Mall, PMT Partners sought new fashion expressions different from the traditional commercial space by reflecting on the antonymy of human society behind the word 「fashion」.
陳列空間,display area
1、排料Marker Planning
剖析服裝與建築這兩個都擁有「人類肌膚延伸」社會屬性的藝術類別,不難發現其背後總會存在許多相互衝突而又密切關聯的詞彙:工業與自然、機器與手工、私密與裸露、窺探與掩飾等等。這些人類社會「反義關聯」的介質,可以看作是服裝藝術和建築藝術在創作上的「物料」,這些「物料」進而通過色彩、質感、造型等來表現每個個體的差異以及人類社會內部的構造。
Analyzing the two art categories of clothing and architecture that both have the social attributes of "human skin extension", it is not difficult to find that there are always many conflicting but in fact closely linked words behind them: industrial and natural, mechanical and handmade, private and exposed, pried into and covered up」 and more. These media of "antisense association" of human society can be regarded as "materials" in the creation of clothing art and architectural art. These "materials" in turn express the individual differences and internal structure of human society through color, texture, and modeling.
空間的排料與秩序,spacial marker planning
空間中的排料,spatial marker planning
材料的組合,combination of materials
材料的衝突與對話,conflict and dialogue of materials
2、裁縫The Tailor
設計拋棄傳統服裝商業空間對陳列展示的過度設計,在四邊方正的90平米空間中,只以一面猶如布匹面料的流線型牆體,將門面展示、服飾展示、試衣間、儲物間、收銀櫃檯等所有功能整合串聯起來,形成建築空間中的「一片式剪裁」。通過這樣相對工業化的手段來塑造自然流線型的結構,是對功能布局的結構重組,由此也使得服裝展銷區域擁有更完整、純粹的展示面,以獲得更清晰高效的流線與更大的空間視覺效果。
This design abandoned the over-design in visual merchandising in the traditional commercial space of clothing business; instead, it integrated and connected front display, clothing display, fitting room, storage room, cashier and other functions by a streamlined wall. That can be seen as 「one-piece」 in architectural space. The natural streamlined structure is shaped by such a relatively industrialized method, it is a structural reorganization of the functional layout, which also makes the clothing display area have a more complete and pure display surface, so as to obtain a clearer and more efficient circulation and a larger visual effect.
空間中的一片式裁剪,「one-piece」 tailoring in architectural space
空間的裁剪與服裝的,spatial tailoring and fashion tailoring
而在空間天花的處理上,本案大膽地使用了檀香紅色真石漆,令商店得以在商場環境中脫穎而出,有效提高客人的進店率並對品牌形象留下深刻印象。
As for the ceilings, this design boldly used sandalwood red natural stone paint, which made the store stand out in the mall environment with black and white as the main color, impressing passers-by and greatly enhances passenger flow.
紅色真石漆天花,red natural-stone-paint ceiling
3、鎖眼釘扣Buttonholing and Attaching
服裝製作中的鎖眼釘扣是將紐扣等「零件」裝配到衣服上並開孔的的過程。在本案的空間設計中,設計師用不鏽鋼、穿孔板、水泥空心磚等工業化材料作為空間陳列道具的「零部件」,以較為裸露直接的方式相互拼接組合,裝配到空間中,並在道具與牆面交接的位置刻意切出孔洞,露出牆面內部紅色真石漆的部分,從而放大這樣一個工業化生產與裝配過程。通過這樣一個「開孔釘扣」的動作,設計師希望在不同材料交接細節之間,能留下某些關於人性場景的實驗與「反義關聯」的一些討論:服裝工業(包括建築工業)是在人造自然還是回歸自然,大機器生產的情節與手工紡織的情懷,同作為「人類肌膚延伸」的服裝和建築在私密與窺探之間的人性矛盾和徘徊。
The buttonholing and attaching in clothing production is the process of assembling buttons and other parts to clothing and making holes. In this design, the designer used industrial materials such as stainless steel, perforated plates, and hollow concrete bricks as the "parts" of space display props. They were spliced and combined with each other in a relatively bare and direct way, assembled into the space. Holes were deliberately cut out at the interface of the props and wall's surface, exposing the sandalwood red natural stone paint inside the wall, thereby magnifying such an industrialized production and assembly process. Through such a "buttonhole" action, the designer hopes that some experiments about human scenes and discussions about "antisense associations" will be left through the details of the meets of different materials: the clothing industry (including the construction industry), whether it's artificial nature or returning to nature, the plots of large machine production and the feelings of hand-woven textiles, and the humanity contradictions and lingering between privacy and spying on clothing and architecture as "human skin extension".
空間中的「開孔釘扣」,」buttonholing and bttaching」 in space
服裝和建築在私密與窺探之間的人性矛盾和徘徊,humanity contradictions and lingering between privacy and spying on clothing and architecture
道具細部,details of props
牆上與中島上的洞口,剛好滿足人們在為自己挑選服飾時,不自覺往孔洞中窺探的心理尺度。
The holes on the wall and the central perfectly met consumers』 psychological scale of unconscious snooping while picking clothing for themselves
90方的商業空間實踐,不僅限於店鋪本身,也不旨在尋求某一種特定的商業空間概念,而是希望通過這一的空間表達,引發對「新時尚」以及時尚背後所隱藏的社會關係的思考和討論。
The purpose of this 90 square meters space practice is not intended to seek a specific concept of commercial space, but to lead to thinking and discussion about the "new fashion" and the hidden human relationships behind the fashion.
平面圖,floor plan
項目信息
項目名稱:LIULIU MO服裝店
設計公司:加減智庫設計事務所
主持建築師:曾喆,胡彥,趙煒昊,
設計團隊:周紫月,盧澤強
空間攝影:曾喆
時尚攝影:劉少東
時裝模特:劉暢
工程與道具顧問:易志雄,許偉加
建築面積:90 m2
建成時間:2019
Project Information
Project Name: LIULIU MO Fashion Retail
Deisgn Firm: PMT Partners Co., Ltd.
Principal Architects: ZENG zhe, HU yan, ZHAO Weihao
Design Team: ZHOU Ziyue, LIN Mianshi
Architectural Photography: ZENG zhe
Fashion Photography: Sherlock Lau
Fashoin Model: LIU Chang
Engineering & Props Consultant: YI Zhixiong, XU Weijia
Building Area: 90 m2
Completion Year: 2019
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